Any full made to measure jacket makers?

[jay_cali]

I think Talons are great if they are US made. I would want a #8 if possible for the main zip. My jackets have #5 which are vintage size, but some think they are too small.

Hi @handymike
As per receipt , its #10 for main, #5 for others.

 

[handymike]

Beefy!

 

[himelator]

This should be repeated—how the arm ties in is extremely important. I have jackets that are 2” different in the shoulder measurement and both fit very well. As you can imagine, sleeve length is also different, though they end at virtually the same place on my arm. Like Italian vs English sport coat tailoring, in general. I took measurements of various jackets when ordering through Dave Himel and I still keep those in my phone for reference when looking at eBay for comparison.

Shoulder measurement can be accurately determined by the center back measure...going from the middle of the center of the collar on the back...across to the shoulder, then down to the cuff...this works for every style of sleeve configuration...drop shoulder, biswing or no swing

 

[Rosecitymike]

Shoulder measurement can be accurately determined by the center back measure...going from the middle of the center of the collar on the back...across to the shoulder, then down to the cuff...this works for every style of sleeve configuration...drop shoulder, biswing or no swing

I totally agree and think this is a very valuable number, but isn't it technically a sleeve measurement rather than shoulder?

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, it is a sleeve measurement. It tells us nothing about the shoulder measurement.

 

[Edward]

www.preblic.jp
View attachment 165510

Nice jacket. Looks identical to the Aero Highwayman.

When gonig custom and paying the big bucks for it, especially if what you want is a custom-fitted version of a standard design, make sure to pay attention to the difference between true bespoke and made to measure. MTM involves tweaking existing patterns to fit your size measurements - adding half an inch on the shoulders, for instance, or an inch to the waist. True bespoke entails making a new and specific pattern just for you. The latter is obviously much more labour intensive than tweaking s standard one a bit, which is why it costs more. Alas, because courts in the UK at least have shamefully refused to censure abuse of the term 'bespoke' to mean merely made to measure, some companies have gotten away with overcharging for the latter to present the former. Not that MTM is bad - it can certainly get you a better jacket if OTR doesn't work for you - but don't be duped into paying full bespoke prices if you're not getting full bespoke.

 

[JMax]

Nice jacket. Looks identical to the Aero Highwayman.

When gonig custom and paying the big bucks for it, especially if what you want is a custom-fitted version of a standard design, make sure to pay attention to the difference between true bespoke and made to measure. MTM involves tweaking existing patterns to fit your size measurements - adding half an inch on the shoulders, for instance, or an inch to the waist. True bespoke entails making a new and specific pattern just for you. The latter is obviously much more labour intensive than tweaking s standard one a bit, which is why it costs more. Alas, because courts in the UK at least have shamefully refused to censure abuse of the term 'bespoke' to mean merely made to measure, some companies have gotten away with overcharging for the latter to present the former. Not that MTM is bad - it can certainly get you a better jacket if OTR doesn't work for you - but don't be duped into paying full bespoke prices if you're not getting full bespoke.

Agree 100%. I find it disingenuous at best and an insult to true bespoke operations. To the point where if an outfit uses the term bespoke to describe MTM I look elsewhere.