An Aero 'car coat' as first quality jacket?

[Harris HTM]

Since you want a 27'' length: I think that with your height a 30's or 50's HB will be around 25'' long (I am an inch shorter than you and my 30's HB is 24''). Probably you got a bit dizzy with all our different opinions here (yes, we are nerds).
I would advise you to filter out the different models: do you want a zipped or buttoned jacket? Do you want a half belt on the back? what length suits you better? then probably you will be down to two-three options. You pick up one. Then you order one of the other options. Then another.

 

[JDelage]

Yeah, I really want a length of around 27", so I think the various HBs are out. That leaves the Teamster, Work Coats, etc.

The following jacket(s) will be a short one and a shearling, exact specs tbd.

 

[Harris HTM]

Yeah, I really want a length of around 27", so I think the various HBs are out. That leaves the Teamster, Work Coats, etc.

The following jacket(s) will be a short one and a shearling, exact specs tbd.

Since you live in Seattle then probably you can see all the models in person (Thurston bros), right?
I remember when I walked into the Aero factory in Galashiels, damn I wanted to get every single model they had there.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Dont forget there are long half belts as well just to make the choice more confusing....

More 30's style:
Plainsman
Wayfarer
Cossack? (not sure if this is longer but think it is)

50's style:
Long Half Belt
Hercules

or the Mariner with is a leather peacoat

 

[Harris HTM]

Dont forget there are long half belts well as just to make the choice more confusing....

More 30's style:
Plainsman
Wayfarer
Cossack? (not sure if this is longer but think it is)

50's style:
Long Half Belt
Hercules

or the Mariner with is a leather peacoat

The length though differs; my Mariner has a back length of around 30'' while my long half belt much shorter, around 26'' (I haven't measured this, just an estimate!). Damn, I need another jacket.

 

[Superfluous]

This thread illustrates the beauty of this wonderful community. Ask a question about a jacket selection and, within a couple of hours, you will have 20+ well reasoned, informative opinions rooted in experience. The downside is that the tidal wave of good information oftentimes includes additional considerations and options not previously contemplated by the OP, which make the decision even more difficult.

 

[Harris HTM]

The downside is that the tidal wave of good information oftentimes includes additional considerations and options not previously contemplated by the OP, which make the decision even more difficult.

That's why we end up with more leather jackets than we can fit in our wardrobe (and financially afford).

 

[JDelage]

I love a peacoat, but not what I'm looking for right now. Single-breasted coats only.

 

[JDelage]

... my Mariner has a back length of around 30'' while my long half belt much shorter, around 26'' (I haven't measured this, just an estimate!). Damn, I need another jacket.

Clearly you need something in the 28" range, followed by coats to bridge the gap at 27" and 29".

That's how it works, right?

 

[Harris HTM]

Clearly you need something in the 28" range, followed by coats to bridge the gap at 27" and 29".

That's how it works, right?

right to the point!

 

[Sloan1874]

Long Half Belt or Teamster are no nonsense options as first jackets. My LHB is a my go-to during autumn and when it rains during winter. The type of leather you choose is less important in terms of warmth than your choice of lining, though the FQHH will probably resist rain a bit more. Personally, I'd go with the normal wool lining, either in tartan or tweed, and then layer for the weather, but you could with alpaca, Strom weight tartan or blanket if you want something a bit more full-on.

 

[Cyber Lip]

Yeah, I really want a length of around 27", so I think the various HBs are out. That leaves the Teamster, Work Coats, etc.

The following jacket(s) will be a short one and a shearling, exact specs tbd.

You can specify what length you want when you order, so you can get 27" in any style. I'd consult w/thurston on which style would work best for you in that length

 

[El Marro]

The Teamster was my first custom Aero and I ordered it in navy CXL with a wool tweed lining and moleskin in the sleeves and pockets. It is a heavy solid coat, and a little bigger than my other jackets so it allows for layering when the weather is cold.
Since hindsight is 20-20, I learned a couple things from that order that I will share with you.
I ordered my jacket with "football" buttons because I had seen pictures of other Teamsters with them and I liked the beefy appearance they gave the jacket. In practice I found them to be a little too fussy for me, and they flopped around loosely when the jacket was unbuttoned.
Since you will be trying on jackets in person at Thurston Bros, I recommend that you try out all the available button options before deciding on one from photos alone.
My last bit of advice is to listen to Carrie and Wade regarding fit and sizing. I have tried it both ways and I was much happier when I followed their advice.
Good luck, and I can't wait to see the new jacket!

 

[JDelage]

Very useful, thank you everyone.

 

[Graemsay]

Since no-one has mentioned it, how about the Veste de Rallye? It's based on a 1960s car coat, and would seem to fit the brief quite well.

That said, the Premier Work Coat is probably the nicest button-up jacket that Aero do.

 

[apba1166]

Well, here's the thing. If you are considering length as a way to cover an untucked shirt, unless you wear very short shirts, a teamster, or crop duster will still show a bit. Unless you add length and then the half belt feels too high. I have a teamster in fqhh and a crop duster in vincenza and like both, but neither covers every shirt tail. I would consider a non half belt. Veste de rallye, cheyenne w deleted uppers, LW downtown in mid steer or deerskin, GW Californian because it has a lower less obtrusive half belt when adding length. I have, had all these, and while think the teamster is most versatile, it won't cover every shirt.

 

[BobJ]

All,

Please help me decide on my first Aero jacket (and first high end jacket, period). I’ve chosen to go with Aero because I live in Seattle and Thurston (in Seattle) can help me get the right fit.

I’m looking for something akin to a car coat, that I can wear with an untucked shirt, so I want a +/- 27" length. It’s going to be a mid-season jacket. At first glance, I think the Premier 1920’s Work Coat is the obvious candidate. I’m also curious about the Cheyenne and the Teamster. Any other obvious candidate? I’m indifferent wrt buttons or zipper.

As for the leather, I like the look of smooth vicenza of any shade except black (not a color…) as well as that of brown or cordovan FQHH Chromexecel. I especially look the marbled look you find on some CXL. I’m curious how much heavier & warmer the FQHH CXL might be compared to the Vicenza. As you may have heard, it sometimes rain in Seattle so how the leather & color react to the occasional rain drop is a factor (but this is not going to be the coat I reach for when it’s pouring).

I like the idea of babying a natural vicenza jacket, but I think it’s an advanced project. Also, as this is my first jacket, I might find I want to sell it in a year or two, so I want to keep it not too controversial. So cherry and natural are probably not the right colors here.

I’m a 45yr white guy, 5’9” and just under 180lbs. My P2P is around 20.5” and my shoulders are around 18.5”. Most RTW shirts are loose in the chest if they fit in the shoulders. I wear a size 40 suit but I could probably fit in a 42, depending. I wear denim pants most of the time, with the occasional chino or 5-pocket cords.

I'm looking for input on models, leather, and any custom mods people have liked or disliked.

Thank you.

If you want a warm coat, here's a beautiful new Aero Hercules in brown cxl steerhide with shearling lining, in the classified here on the forum, that looks to be about your size:

LINK: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...steerhide-brown-shearling-lined-alpaca.89834/

 

[Fanch]

I have a brown CXL FQHH Teamster that is a size 42 with a back length of 28.5" and moleskin body shell lining, cotton drill sleeves. Football buttons and one inside pocket without closure. As a point of reference I am 6'2" with a 42" chest and wear a 42L coat. From a sizing perspective my Teamster is ideal. Although I might be able to size down to a 40, I would be hesitant to do so as IMHO a longer jacket such as a Teamster should allow for layering such as a Filson vest made in Seattle of all places!

For a longer cost I prefer buttons over zipper since I can unbutton the bottom button when sitting. Vicenza was not available for me when I selected FQHH. Knowing what I do now, I would go with seal brown Vicenza with same lining as above. I would choose regular buttons over football. If you go with inside pocket(s), beware of snap closure that can show through to the outside and consider no closure.

Good luck and let us know what you come up with.

 

[JDelage]

I'm thinking Premium 20s Work Coat or maybe Teamster. I need to look for pics of those worn. I like the trim & back of the 20's WC and I like the handwarmer pockets on the T but they're not critical on a mid-season coat.

Edit: @apba1166 The point about lengthening the back on a HB jacket is well taken. I was wondering about maybe getting the WC without a belt (and a longer back). Alternatively, I think I might just shorten the length of those shirts I want to wear untucked. I'll do the fitting with one of the shorter ones.

 

[jacketjunkie]

I will upload a quick snap of my Teamster for you later this evening.