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American boot alternatives

RockyR

Familiar Face
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56
Location
Australia
I live, breathe, and will likely die in a pair of RM Williams boots (and likely the pair Ive been wearing for the last several years). I also have a pair of Loakes from the UK, which although more difficult to break, are absolutely comfortable.

Is anyone from the great US of A familiar with the RMs and Loakes style of chelsea boots? If so, are there any similar quality and style American branded boots that I should be adding to my rotation or that you can suggest?
 

Aloysius

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3,993
There are not many Chelsea boots better than RM Williams. I would go so far as to say that the dressy RMWs go toe-to-toe with the John Lobb equivalent.
 

RockyR

Familiar Face
Messages
56
Location
Australia
There are not many Chelsea boots better than RM Williams. I would go so far as to say that the dressy RMWs go toe-to-toe with the John Lobb equivalent.
If there was one boot that epitomised the USA (like RMs for Aus), what do you think it would it be (chelsea or otherwise)?
 

Aloysius

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If there was one boot that epitomised the USA (like RMs for Aus), what do you think it would it be (chelsea or otherwise)?

I don't think there is such a thing, but I expect people would say Red Wing Iron Rangers or Alden Indy boots because each has quite an online following.

Personally I think more than a specific maker it would be a kind of shoe, such as shell cordovan longwings.

But none of the above would be recognizable to the average American the way RMWs are to an Aussie or even Kiwi.
 

Faux59

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
Toronto
I'd put Viberg at the very top. Made in Canada.

Oak Street makes a sleek chelsea but their QC is sometimes questionable and the elastic feels cheap compared to that of RM .

Grant Stone boots made in China are excellent.

Nicks.

Carmina are excellent tho made in Spain.

What's wrong with another RM? I have 2 a chestnut and caramel pull up leather. It's the quintessential chelsea.

One of your Australian countrymen has a youtube channel with lots of boot info. Bootlosophy.
 
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Mich486

One Too Many
Messages
1,690
As said above, what’s more American than cowboy boots?

Red wing Mocs, engineer boots, harness and packer boots etc are all typically American as well but the cowboy boot is the only one that everybody around the world would immediately associate with the US without thinking twice.
 
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16,851
Plenty of fantastic USA based makers. In no particular order, you've got Chippewa, Wesco, Tecsovas, Luchesse, all the way up to some really high-end American boot-makers.

R. M. Williams makes a great boot but they're Chippewa grade, really.
 

BigPond

Familiar Face
Messages
77
80 years before RM opened their doors, Rios of Mercedes was making the cowboy boots in TX

Here’s a very toned down, wardrobe friendly model. Plenty more at the same vendor;


While this style of boot is rarely seen in Northern cities, they are prolific in the South.

Another American classic is the Engineer Boot. Wesco, imho, makes the most iconic and practical version and they are, I believe, more in your style lexicon than perhaps the above.


Is there an easy way to hyperlink here?

Iron Rangers have already been mentioned. If you asked any American city dweller to draw you a picture of a
boot this is what you’d see.

Finally, there’s the service boot. Every one seems to copy this but Whites makes the most iconic.
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
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2,740
Location
Europe
I don't think there is such a thing, but I expect people would say Red Wing Iron Rangers or Alden Indy boots because each has quite an online following.

Personally I think more than a specific maker it would be a kind of shoe, such as shell cordovan longwings.

But none of the above would be recognizable to the average American the way RMWs are to an Aussie or even Kiwi.

I tend to agree with @Aloysius. Plenty of well made boots/shoes in the US, but none that breathe ‚pride of the nation‘ quite like RMW.

Of course, as has been said, Cowboy or Engineer Boots are quintessentially American, but there is not that one single maker that stands out.

One word of caution: RMW had been sold to LVMH for some years. In that time, quality deteriorated considerably. They are now re-nationalised, with a much broader variety of hides. Sizing has changed and the overall ‚feel‘ is slightly less worthy, but I believe they are back on track now (got a pair from the new maker some two years ago and like it very much).
 

Aloysius

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Plenty of fantastic USA based makers. In no particular order, you've got Chippewa, Wesco, Tecsovas, Luchesse, all the way up to some really high-end American boot-makers.

R. M. Williams makes a great boot but they're Chippewa grade, really.

I completely disagree, unless you mean the sort of sneaker-style gardening shoes (which I got for cheap online). The construction of RMWs is excellent, the wholecut-only approach (even on cheaper models!) is basically unheard of, and if you want top tier finishing, their "Signature" MTO boots are up there.

80 years before RM opened their doors, Rios of Mercedes was making the cowboy boots in TX

I mean if you're going by founded dates, you can find lots of things. But there is no American shoe or boot brand, except unironically Nike, with the level of recognition and national identity to it that RMW has in Aus. Cowboy boots as a general category maybe, but again only maybe because people outside the Western states did not wear them until recent decades.

One word of caution: RMW had been sold to LVMH for some years. In that time, quality deteriorated considerably. They are now re-nationalised, with a much broader variety of hides. Sizing has changed and the overall ‚feel‘ is slightly less worthy, but I believe they are back on track now (got a pair from the new maker some two years ago and like it very much).

The new stuff is definitely 'back', I can confirm. I got both a pair of kangaroo hide Comfort Craftsman work boots and black calf Signature dress boots. The only thing is we can no longer get the 'order direct from Australia' deals as they've disallowed Australian dealers from selling abroad.

While the dealhunter part of me was slightly annoyed by this, in practice I think it's reasonable. Plus those boots were severely underpriced at the $350 mark.
 
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16,851
I completely disagree, unless you mean the sort of sneaker-style gardening shoes (which I got for cheap online). The construction of RMWs is excellent, the wholecut-only approach (even on cheaper models!) is basically unheard of, and if you want top tier finishing, their "Signature" MTO boots are up there.

Comparing them to Chippewas wasn't meant in an disparaging way. When it comes to quality & durability, RMW is as good as it gets; Same as Chippewa's, despite what the experts on the internet may tell you. I had a pair of service boots which were my only footwear for over four years (and I walk... a lot) and as can vouch that there are no better, more reliable pair of boots out there, period, but aesthetically speaking, they are a bit crude compared to some other US makers and I found the same holds true for RMW's. But there's no denying their quality, absolutely.
 

Aloysius

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Comparing them to Chippewas wasn't meant in an disparaging way. When it comes to quality & durability, RMW is as good as it gets; Same as Chippewa's, despite what the experts on the internet may tell you. I had a pair of service boots which were my only footwear for over four years (and I walk... a lot) and as can vouch that there are no better, more reliable pair of boots out there, period, but aesthetically speaking, they are a bit crude compared to some other US makers and I found the same holds true for RMW's. But there's no denying their quality, absolutely.

I don't think Chippewa's construction is bad, rather that what jumps out about RMW is that they use materials in a way that even much more expensive brands don't. It's honestly a bit weird, but in a nice way. Wholecuts aren't the default for any leather good because of the sheer cost, but they built their whole brand around it.
 

MickeyPunch

One of the Regulars
Messages
155
I read quiality of RM Williams had gone downhill since they were acquired by Louis Vuitton, although I never handled them as I don’t like chelsea boots but some of their lasts/shapes look quite good IMO.

Also, Tecovas are made in Mexico. They’re great for the price IMO but it seems that USA-made is important for op. Also again I never handled them but usually Luchesses are regarded as not worth the price. I liked their Jonah boot but went with a pair of Tecovas (Dax) instead.

I’m not from the US but I’d go with RedWings, love them.
 
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16,851
I don't think Chippewa's construction is bad, rather that what jumps out about RMW is that they use materials in a way that even much more expensive brands don't. It's honestly a bit weird, but in a nice way. Wholecuts aren't the default for any leather good because of the sheer cost, but they built their whole brand around it.

I like them a lot. I specifically loved Maya boot that in retrospect I should've gotten for my gf...
 

El Marro

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I think White’s Semi Dress deserve a mention if we’re discussing great American boots. I think it strikes the perfect balance between work boot and dress shoe.
 

Aloysius

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I think White’s Semi Dress deserve a mention if we’re discussing great American boots. I think it strikes the perfect balance between work boot and dress shoe.

I think they’re great boots, like basically everything mentioned in the discussion.

But I’m sure you’d agree that none of the American work boot brands have Nike level universal recognition by the public, as RMW does in Australia. We really don’t have an equivalent to that.

For Britain, I think the closest might be Doc Martens.
 

El Marro

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But I’m sure you’d agree that none of the American work boot brands have Nike level universal recognition by the public, as RMW does in Australia. We really don’t have an equivalent to that.
I agree. People who actually work in boots all know about Red Wing (not their Heritage Line, but their true work boots) but that isn’t a very large percentage of the population.
 

BigPond

Familiar Face
Messages
77
I think they’re great boots, like basically everything mentioned in the discussion.

But I’m sure you’d agree that none of the American work boot brands have Nike level universal recognition by the public, as RMW does in Australia. We really don’t have an equivalent to that.

For Britain, I think the closest might be Doc Martens.
Timberland, Converse hi tops, the moc toe boot, ll bean boot.

There are several designs of American boots that are recognized by just about everyone, anywhere.

There’s isn’t analogue to rm Williams because the need that gave birth to it doesn’t exist in the US.
 
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