Alexander Leathers Roadster fit advice (with pics)

[Seb Lucas]

Based on my experience with leather jackets I wouldn't say that what you're showing us is a baggy jacket - that's how a jacket can sit until it's settled in. I've owned maybe 50 jackets over 30 years and what I find is that they often look like this when new, then they mold to your body shape with time. Before this happens they can look... awkward. I suspect that many a good jacket has been sold or returned before it had a chance to do its job.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Hello and thanks for the further comments, in particular those offering an opinion on exactly how the measurements need to be changed. Very helpful!


The issue is I need to know what measurements to change/ask for in the new jacket. Posting pics of me wearing one of theirs in a stock size is obviously a good way to work this out, as well as asking the experts on here. Maybe I should have bought a cafe racer and said "like this fit but with roadster pockets and collar", rather than like this style but slim fit.

Asking the 'experts' here will only get you various opinions. Picking one is risky at best. The company that you are dealing with are the true experts and should be able to tell you if what you are trying to accomplish is actually feasible or not. However..although accomodating...will you be stuck with the redesign? Keep in mind that some here over the years have tried to pass on disasters of joint effort between customer and willing customizer. For this very reason alterations have become more limited with certain jacket makers.
HD

 

[StichInTime]

Experts should have been in inverted commas

I don't think I am seeking anything outlandish here, just seems AL are very hesitant to advise me on how it should be achieved.

 

[Fanch]

If you read HD's post just above, you can perhaps gain insight as to why AL is very hesitant to advise you on "how it should be achieved."

 

[cordwangler]

Experts should have been in inverted commas

I don't think I am seeking anything outlandish here, just seems AL are very hesitant to advise me on how it should be achieved.

As others have said, jacket patterns are very specific, and although it's possible to go longer in body and arms, these changes can only be made within quite tight margins, otherwise the jacket will come out looking out of balance. Small differences between one pattern and another often result from major differences in the cut of each individual panel. And these have to fit together specifically in the final completed jacket - so it's not as easy as just having Jacket X Body with Jacket Y Arms.

Without knowledge of pattern cutting and styling, with the best will in the world there'll always be a communication mismatch between a maker and a customer.

I had a Roadster-style jacket (Aero, 2008) a while back but encountered similar problems with fit. Then tried a Lost World Inc version and that was much better for me. But still not right. So I gave up on that style because of my long body and didn't like the restrictive armholes. I didn't get why I couldn't just have combined elements of the styles I liked. So I researched tailoring and jacket making in particular and found out how patterns work.

Forgive me if I sound condescending, I don't mean to be, but if you want a good-fitting jacket it really is worth getting proper body measurements done - there are guides on various makers' sites - and also researching jacket design, beyond just comparing pictures of different styles.

And there's no substitute for just trying and/or buying, as Seb said.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

It would seem to me that adding a collar and different pocket configuration to a more established slimmer design would offer much less risk than attempting to re-do a jacket style that seems somewhat in conflict with a slim & trim pattern. Subtracting inches here and there and guessing as a novice is always taking quite a chance especially with a good bit of money spent on these higher end leather jackets. However..Aero's premium Highwayman seems to have been successful with a neater pattern. Perhaps that model could be dissected and copied as well....[huh]
HD

 

[Rudie]

If I were in your shoes I would spend a short vacation in Scotland and combine it with a trip to AL and Aero. Get fitted in person and you will have a good result. Everything else is gambling.

 

[Grayland]

Based on my experience with leather jackets I wouldn't say that what you're showing us is a baggy jacket - that's how a jacket can sit until it's settled in. I've owned maybe 50 jackets over 30 years and what I find is that they often look like this when new, then they mold to your body shape with time. Before this happens they can look... awkward. I suspect that many a good jacket has been sold or returned before it had a chance to do its job.

I agree 100%. It looks like an out of the box, stiff, new leather jacket and I don't think it is bad-fitting. That type of jacket isn't going to hug your torso like a cafe racer.

 

[Monitor]

I'll just echo what I've often heard more experienced members of this forum say, something that I found to be profoundly true; If there's a single thing bothering you about your new jacket from the get go, fix it as the problem won't go away. If you feel the jacket's, I don't know, too long or too short, too large, small, baggy, boxy, whatever, it's something that's going to keep picking on you until the moment you finally decide to list it on Bay.

But on the other hand, HD is one hundred percent right about the company knowing best so while it's good seek opinions here, I'd rather if you present your thoughts to AL and go with what they have to say about the matter, whatever it may be.

Lastly, in my opinion, while the jacket does look good on you, for a custom made jacket, you could do a bit better. As other members pointed out, your side photo isn't too flattering and suggests the jacket is definitely too wide in the waist, which is something I'm most allergic too. Not too concerned about the pit to pit width as most jackets look like that when you outstretch your arms, especially boxy-er designs such as this one.
Regarding length, I agree with HD - you seem to be wearing a very low riding jeans and the jacket is still covering your belt so... Looks good tome. Just looking only at the jacket, proportionally, it really looks fine. So, I think the length's good and shouldn't be touched.

But other than that, the jacket doesn't strike me as too large or too baggy. Shoulders, chest and back look good to me and overall, it's a beautiful jacket that fits you well. And +1 on what Seb Lucas said about the jacket needing to mold to your body. It takes time for these heavy jackets to settle down on you.

 

[tnjyoung]

Stitch,
I get the feeling you are going through what I went through (see this post) http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?80647-Aero-Sonoma-Cafe-Racer-Fit-Questions

I ended up switching jackets (see this post)http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?80830-It-has-been-set-into-motion

In short, I began looking at a Highwayman/Roadster, but ended up with a modified cafe racer. It may be the best idea for you to do something similar. I wanted the fitted look as well. Hopefully that is what I will end up with...

 

[Superfluous]

It would seem to me that adding a collar and different pocket configuration to a more established slimmer design would offer much less risk than attempting to re-do a jacket style that seems somewhat in conflict with a slim & trim pattern. Subtracting inches here and there and guessing as a novice is always taking quite a chance especially with a good bit of money spent on these higher end leather jackets. However..Aero's premium Highwayman seems to have been successful with a neater pattern. Perhaps that model could be dissected and copied as well....[huh]
HD

Bingo!

SIT: IMHO, the shoulders on your most recent photo look too wide. Seb is likely right that, over time, the shoulders will mold to your body (he has far more experience than I). That said, I don't think the excess shoulder material is going to vanish. Rather, as the jacket molds to your body, I suspect that the excess shoulder material will wrap around your shoulder, as opposed to sticking out over the edge of your shoulder as it currently does, thus making the over-sized shoulder less obvious. In the end, the shoulder seam will be somewhere down your arm, past the edge of your shoulder. Personally, I prefer jackets where the shoulder seam lines up reasonably close to the end of my shoulder right out of the box. Sometimes, there is small peak that smoothens out over time, but the end result does not wrap around my shoulder and down my arm. It is often difficult to get the shoulder seam lined up perfectly and I do have jackets with more shoulder than I would prefer, but I try my best to avoid an over-sized shoulder. I just declined an otherwise great Freewheelers Brakeman because the size with sufficient chest width has shoulders that are too wide for me. If you are having a jacket made, you can ensure the right shoulder/chest relationship. As HD said, consider a thinner cut.

 

[StichInTime]

It would seem to me that adding a collar and different pocket configuration to a more established slimmer design would offer much less risk than attempting to re-do a jacket style that seems somewhat in conflict with a slim & trim pattern. Subtracting inches here and there and guessing as a novice is always taking quite a chance especially with a good bit of money spent on these higher end leather jackets. However..Aero's premium Highwayman seems to have been successful with a neater pattern. Perhaps that model could be dissected and copied as well....[huh]
HD

Good point - though they haven't suggested this. I'm not wedded to the idea of messing and fiddling with roadster cut to get a slim cut. It's the collar / pockets / plain back and low adjuster of the roadster I like.

 

[StichInTime]

Bingo!

SIT: IMHO, the shoulders on your most recent photo look too wide. Seb is likely right that, over time, the shoulders will mold to your body (he has far more experience than I). That said, I don't think the excess shoulder material is going to vanish. Rather, as the jacket molds to your body, I suspect that the excess shoulder material will wrap around your shoulder, as opposed to sticking out over the edge of your shoulder as it currently does, thus making the over-sized shoulder less obvious. In the end, the shoulder seam will be somewhere down your arm, past the edge of your shoulder. Personally, I prefer jackets where the shoulder seam lines up reasonably close to the end of my shoulder right out of the box. Sometimes, there is small peak that smoothens out over time, but the end result does not wrap around my shoulder and down my arm. It is often difficult to get the shoulder seam lined up perfectly and I do have jackets with more shoulder than I would prefer, but I try my best to avoid an over-sized shoulder. I just declined an otherwise great Freewheelers Brakeman because the size with sufficient chest width has shoulders that are too wide for me. If you are having a jacket made, you can ensure the right shoulder/chest relationship. As HD said, consider a thinner cut.

Thanks, yeah that photo shows the shoulders are too wide, when the jacket breaks it will sit past the shoulder which I think everyone can agree isn't ideal, but it would be better than current.

The way I see it, for £300 it isnt right, so an extra £200 going custom (considering the fantastic weight/quality which I am very impressed with) is well worth it.

 

[Fanch]

If the jacket is returnable, consider returning it. If you don't love it now as is, you will sooner than later hate it. Consider a trip to Aero or Al and try on stuff there, including being measured if you place a custom order. The fewer changes you make to an existing pattern, the better will be the outcome.

 

[Seb Lucas]

In the end if you're not happy (for whatever reason) that's fine. This stuff is subjective not objective. I personally think the shoulder shot shows good fitting shoulders that just need to settle down with wear. I'd be pleased with that fit but that's me. Good luck; I'm done.

 

[StichInTime]

The jacket is already returned, it was a stock size 40 - I am getting a custom made assuming I can work out the cut/sizing with AL.

I wanted to get as much info as possible from people on here to help decide with measurements!

 

[ProteinNerd]

You live in England, why not make a weekend of it and take a trip to the factory? I drove from London to Scotland a few times when I lived there and its only about an 8 hour trip by memory.

Now back in Australia, I can drive for 8 hours and still be in the same state!!.....London to Scotland isn't very far at all. Its probably your best bet for getting this 100% right and would be well worth the effort.

 

[Monitor]

What's this leather like? Looks very matte from the photos.

 

[StichInTime]

What's this leather like? Looks very matte from the photos.

Very thick and heavy, jacket weighed close to 3 kilograms! Has a nice grain but not too exaggerated. I liked the matte rather than shiny look.

 

[StichInTime]

You live in England, why not make a weekend of it and take a trip to the factory? I drove from London to Scotland a few times when I lived there and its only about an 8 hour trip by memory.

Now back in Australia, I can drive for 8 hours and still be in the same state!!.....London to Scotland isn't very far at all. Its probably your best bet for getting this 100% right and would be well worth the effort.

Way too much time & money involved in doing this!