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Aero Premier HWY - Guidance needed

Messages
10,643
Based on postings from some of TFL's elder statesmen, I went with a 2" taper on my Chips. It makes a huge difference in fit. The fit jacket sent by TB was a Highwayman.

Dan_T's idea to check out other patterns is intriguing, but if you decide to stay with the Highwayman, a taper is the way to go. Your build seems to be made for it.

I would add a bit on the sleeve too, like you said. During my fit process I recall being told to expect some shortening (.5"?, I seriously can't remember right now) once the creases start to form. Definitely a discussion to have with Carrie.
 

AlexB

A-List Customer
Messages
306
Location
Berlin
Since I already have a Boardracer and a Ridley both having a pattern similar to the Seven, I was looking for something different. Fit wise I also have to say that my Ridley with some more room feels more comfortable in the FQHH.

Carrie mentioned I should try to pinch the jacket in the chest area. In case I can pinch 1 inch (=2 inch in circumference) I could size down to a 42. My actual chest measurement is relaxed 43 and expanded 44.5 inch. My belt line is 42 inch. I will try this once I am back home over the weekend. However since the chest and arms felt already quite snug I am a little hesitant to do so. Maybe tapering down a full size is the way to go. I really liked the result on the mentioned CHP.

Also the chosen leather could positively affect the fit I guess. I could imagine the FQHH gives the jacket more structure.

The reason why I chose the HWY are mainly two things. I like the bottom panel and the bottomed arm cuffs - I guess because they are different from my other two jackets...and I need some difference to justify the „need“ of another jacket [emoji28]


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Psant25

One Too Many
Messages
1,607
Yeah do not size down. I have a 40 chest and sold two premier hwyman jackets size 42 because i could barely get them on they were small in the upper back and shoulder. Was kind of talked into going that size. I am just not a skin tight jacket kind of guy. Esp in heavy fqhh you need some room to move and these jackets do mold and tighten up in some areas over time after getting wear, rain, sun, etc.
 
Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
Dropping the waist by an inch or two will absolutely improve the fit from chest down...I would probably do this on every jacket I order from Aero moving forward (barring the CR pattern). These two have both been drop waisted and it really does improve the fit. I think I could've been a bit more aggressive with the drop on the PHWM.
8E0685F5-8369-4BE3-BA9D-79134B9A3D96.jpeg

9C9980C2-E88A-46C9-BDB6-A2E516C4EF0E.jpeg

54C52892-D1A7-4809-AE8A-A52F5ABA832D.jpeg

E42E1FA8-ACBE-40FD-A065-28544405426A.jpeg
 

AlexB

A-List Customer
Messages
306
Location
Berlin
Dropping the waist by an inch or two will absolutely improve the fit from chest down...I would probably do this on every jacket I order from Aero moving forward (barring the CR pattern). These two have both been drop waisted and it really does improve the fit. I think I could've been a bit more aggressive with the drop on the PHWM.
View attachment 186222
View attachment 186223
View attachment 186225
View attachment 186224

I’m just wondering why the back is bunching that much. Looking at your PHWY it seems our shoulder seems are more or less in the same position, but then there is no bunching on your back...


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Messages
17,511
Location
Chicago
I’m just wondering why the back is bunching that much. Looking at your PHWY it seems our shoulder seems are more or less in the same position, but then there is no bunching on your back...


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That could be attributed in part to the hide...fit jacket is vic right?
 

Benny Holiday

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,805
Location
Sydney Australia
I'm with Ton312 100% on the waist tapering, and agree with those who say the sleeves need another inch in length. The rets of the jacket looks as a Highwayman should.
 

Bennarion

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,219
A very important point I have already gone through my experience. If you take the jacket so that it fits very tightly, it will not be possible to wear it comfortably. It turns out only to dress her for a photo and on the catwalk of fashion
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,605
Location
California
A very important point I have already gone through my experience. If you take a jacket so that it fits very tightly, it will be impossible to wear it comfortably. It turns out only to dress her for a photo and on the catwalk of fashion :D
Absolutely agree on this point. A couple of jackets that I returned because they were too tight to wear comfortably looked great in photos. They actually looked better than jackets that fit me well.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,323
Location
Germany
I think the Premier Highwayman is an odd beast and very hard to get the fit right on, arguably because of the combination of narrow shoulders and boxy (little tapered) body. I love the regular HWM (owned several) with its broad shoulders and boxy fit as a rugged do it all workstyle-ish jacket, broad shoulders and boxy fit just go well together. The Premier HWM has the narrower shoulders of a smarter jacket but then tries to remain a boxy-ish get-stuff-done-workwear fit in the body which results in a very tubular look/fit. Not saying it doesn't work, just feel it's even harder to get right than a regular HWM. Premier undoubtely has the cooler details though; a small front drop (which I miss dearly on HWM), cooler collar, trimmer sleeves (My HWMs sleeves makes my Vansons sleeves look trim). Yoke is cooler on regular HWM though. If I wanted a HWM I would probably ask for the regular pattern (going down one size orso) with a slight front drop and Premier collar.
 

AlexB

A-List Customer
Messages
306
Location
Berlin
You need to add the length of the sleeves. The rest is a moot point. Try putting something else besides a T-shirt under your jacket.

Here is my View attachment 186329 View attachment 186327 View attachment 186328

That looks great. Have not decided whether I should go with the original HWY yoke or the premier one. I like that the PHWY yoke follows the seams from the arms perfectly, but than it looks very much like a western jacket...


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AlexB

A-List Customer
Messages
306
Location
Berlin
Absolutely agree on this point. A couple of jackets that I returned because they were too tight to wear comfortably looked great in photos. They actually looked better than jackets that fit me well.

I also agree on that point. Sometimes I look in the mirror and think my BR and Ridley are too big compared to some photos, but when putting them on I am usually happy I have some more room.


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