Aero Military Jackets Questions

[Canuck Panda]

Hi, I've fallen into the military jackets black hole and can't seem to get out. Already read through a lot of the old posts but couldn't really find what I was looking for. Please help to shed some light if you got the answer. Thanks.

1) AN-J-3 / M422A / G-1 Jacket
Has anyone ever gotten a horsehide version from Aero?
With double knitted cuffs instead of the single knit?
With Conmar zip?

2) Shearling jackets
Is it possible to get a tapered torso custom version? Say size 42 taper down to size 40? Or are these not open for size modifications?
For the B3 or the AN-J-4 jackets, is it possible to get the thick 1" fur for the body and the thinner 1/2" fur for the collar and sleeves?

 

[MrProper]

Is it possible to get a tapered torso custom version? Say size 42 taper down to size 40?

I got it that way with my CC.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I got it that way with my CC.

Thanks that's great news. I just need to decide between AN-J-4 or B3 now...

 

[Fonzie]

1) AN-J-3 / M422A / G-1 Jacket
Has anyone ever gotten a horsehide version from Aero?
With double knitted cuffs instead of the single knit?
With Conmar zip?

Yes, I got an M-422a in British oil pull light brown horsehide, great mid-weight option, drapes very nicely but doesn’t hold arm creases well. Zipper is the standard Talon that Aero uses, still works well, the jacket is 6-7 years old.
Single rib rack knit on waist band and doubled on cuffs, I wish the waist band was doubled as well, more durable, warm and practical. I
Overall a very nice jacket with nice depth of colour and practical, great range of motion.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Yes, I got an M-422a in British oil pull light brown horsehide, great mid-weight option, drapes very nicely but doesn’t hold arm creases well. Zipper is the standard Talon that Aero uses, still works well, the jacket is 6-7 years old.
Single rib rack knit on waist band and doubled on cuffs, I wish the waist band was doubled as well, more durable, warm and practical. I
Overall a very nice jacket with nice depth of colour and practical, great range of motion.

Thanks mate. Nice to see a horsehide version out there.

 

[Tark]

1) AN-J-3 / M422A / G-1 Jacket
Has anyone ever gotten a horsehide version from Aero?
With double knitted cuffs instead of the single knit?
With Conmar zip?

I've gotten one in Vicenza horsehide and also with the double knitted A-2 seal brown knits (the latter for durability concerns) so it's definitely possible

 

[Aloysius]

You can get a horsehide version but goat is both traditional for the style and Aero’s goat is amazing.

I’d wanted to get an AN-J-3 from Aero for a few years but sadly they’ve discontinued the version I wanted so I’d have to go the Sheeley route if I wanted one.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I've gotten one in Vicenza horsehide and also with the double knitted A-2 seal brown knits (the latter for durability concerns) so it's definitely possible

Sounds great. i had the single knits on another jacket before and I would definitely want double knits this time. much more durable.

 

[photo2u]

You can get a horsehide version but goat is both traditional for the style and Aero’s goat is amazing.

I’d wanted to get an AN-J-3 from Aero for a few years but sadly they’ve discontinued the version I wanted so I’d have to go the Sheeley route if I wanted one.

Sheeley is a far superior manufacture than Aero. His quality is hard to beat.

 

[Aloysius]

He’s a true specialist. His niche is 1930s techniques and equipment, and he carries it out like no one else.

 

[El Marro]

If you are interested in a horsehide G-1 then I would look at the ELMC G-1. I own four G-1s and this jacket and it is my favorite of the bunch. Eastman prices have gone a but crazy in the last few years but ai have seen them pop up used from time to time.

 

[Tom71]

If you are interested in a horsehide G-1 then I would look at the ELMC G-1. I own four G-1s and this jacket and it is my favorite of the bunch. Eastman prices have gone a but crazy in the last few years but ai have seen them pop up used from time to time.

Mmmh, thats the second time in one week somebody noted the horsehide ELMC G-1 as their favorite one. Don´t have first hand knowledge, but I own an Eastman G-1 in goat and this is mighty fine too.

 

[Edward]

You can get a horsehide version but goat is both traditional for the style and Aero’s goat is amazing.

I’d wanted to get an AN-J-3 from Aero for a few years but sadly they’ve discontinued the version I wanted so I’d have to go the Sheeley route if I wanted one.

Much depends what you want, really. I had (though have passed on due to having bought on the used market a smaller size than I should have) both an Aero and an ELC A2. Both were nice. Both seal; the ELC horse, the Aero goat. I found I much preferred the goat. Actually, when I sold the Aero on eBay some time back the buyer turned out to be Ken Calder himself. The look of it with less obvious finish-wear than the horse had was much preferable - subjective aesthetics. Both were really nice. I might pick up an A2 again at some point. While I much prefer civilian designs nowadays, I am tempted by the idea of an A2 with a custom painted leather patch (not an actual squadron, but the Hellboy BPRD logo). I'd definitely go goat, no question. Horse will always have a pull for a lot of A2 folks especially being the original spec (as was goat, I believe, for the earlier USN jackets), though my understanding is that of surviving A2s now it's goat that arises in higher numbers and better nick. Of course, there's also the research that Gary Eastman did some years ago that, again as memory serves, concluded that a very significant proportion of 'real' A2s were actually steer - a hide previously sneered at as "wrong" by many collectors, so..... All done and said, if it looks right and the buyer likes it....

I had an Aero ANJ3 very briefly years ago. Another eBay purchase, catch and release - sold it for what I paid on here, actually. Not sure if the buyer is still around. That pattern is very neat-fitting; I'd want to go up a size from what I would wearing an A2, maybe even up from a USN jacket. I *think*, if memory serves (I have photos, but they're on another harddrive) it was the version without epaulettes. The missing link between the original, US military A2s & USNs, and civilianised, commercial hybrids in the same vein as the Schott 184SM which appeared in the war era and onwards.

WRT shearling jackets, especially the RAF versions, I wouldn't start trying to tailor them, myself. It can be done, but they were big and boxy jackets that could take significant layering under them; to start trying to make them more svelte runs the risk of changing the entire aesthetic.

If a slimmer fitting shearling is desired, I would maybe think of looking at the B6 instead, as that was a snugger, more tailored jacket by design. https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/usaaf/usaaf-type-b-6--contract-no--42-18283-p/military015

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks for the intel guys. An Eastman is definitely on my list but I prefer to buy it at the old old prices so I am keeping my eye out for an used one at the moment.

TBH, what I really wanted was a CXL FQHH G-1. I've got these Japanese horsehide G-1's that resemble what a CXL G-1 would be (without the stiff). And I believe CXL FQHH would work with the G-1 pattern given its armpit camel toes and full action back. And from what I've gathered previously, the Aero machinist that does the military jackets uses the smaller sewing needle so that means no CXL by default. I was just trying to see if a CXL one off exist out there so I can use that to convince Aero to give me a CXL FQHH G-1. I've got back up plans, but Aero would make the most economical sense for CXL FQHH G-1.

I am team goat. It is the best wearable leather. Better than horsehide better than cowhide better than deerskin in everyday wear-ability. But I am a CXL nut job. The CXL changing colors/finishing had me hooked from day one. The stiffness I've learned to put up with.

BTW, imo, navy has the best jacket designs. Very functional and classic looking. I just realized that I kept going back to the naval design jackets/coats.

 

[Edward]

Thanks for the intel guys. An Eastman is definitely on my list but I prefer to buy it at the old old prices so I am keeping my eye out for an used one at the moment.

TBH, what I really wanted was a CXL FQHH G-1. I've got these Japanese horsehide G-1's that resemble what a CXL G-1 would be (without the stiff). And I believe CXL FQHH would work with the G-1 pattern given its armpit camel toes and full action back. And from what I've gathered previously, the Aero machinist that does the military jackets uses the smaller sewing needle so that means no CXL by default. I was just trying to see if a CXL one off exist out there so I can use that to convince Aero to give me a CXL FQHH G-1. I've got back up plans, but Aero would make the most economical sense for CXL FQHH G-1.

I am team goat. It is the best wearable leather. Better than horsehide better than cowhide better than deerskin in everyday wear-ability. But I am a CXL nut job. The CXL changing colors/finishing had me hooked from day one. The stiffness I've learned to put up with.

BTW, imo, navy has the best jacket designs. Very functional and classic looking. I just realized that I kept going back to the naval design jackets/coats.

I hear you on the ELC prices. They obviously have identified a market that will pay that so fair play to them, but they certainly priced me out some years ago. Since Ken came back to Aero and significantly revised the Aero milspec patterns as well, any slight accuracy advantage that ELC were once perceived to have in that regard is now not there for me - ymmv.

I've thought about alternative hides for a G1 type before now in part because I was toying with the idea of a blackedout one, something akin to the William Gibson series from Buzz. I'd be wary of FQHH, though - my concern would be with wouldn't be a good mix with the knits. I have seen a black, FQHH Aero A2 in the wild, but that was from the Lauder 'anything goes' years, so I wouldn't take that as confirmation it's a good idea. As ever, of course Aero will be best placed to advise what is and is not practicably / something they'd do. If I was to go this route in future myself, I think I'd probably be looking at either the goat or the mid-weight steer. The latter is what my Highwayman is made from. Same thickness to my hand as FQHH, but drapes much softer right from the start. Not a million miles away from (though for me nicer than, in a purely subjective, aesthetic way) the steer of my Schott 618. I think that would be a great hide if you wanted something a little 'more' than the goat, but without any concern about it being a bit /much. for going with the knits.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I hear you on the ELC prices. They obviously have identified a market that will pay that so fair play to them, but they certainly priced me out some years ago. Since Ken came back to Aero and significantly revised the Aero milspec patterns as well, any slight accuracy advantage that ELC were once perceived to have in that regard is now not there for me - ymmv.

I've thought about alternative hides for a G1 type before now in part because I was toying with the idea of a blackedout one, something akin to the William Gibson series from Buzz. I'd be wary of FQHH, though - my concern would be with wouldn't be a good mix with the knits. I have seen a black, FQHH Aero A2 in the wild, but that was from the Lauder 'anything goes' years, so I wouldn't take that as confirmation it's a good idea. As ever, of course Aero will be best placed to advise what is and is not practicably / something they'd do. If I was to go this route in future myself, I think I'd probably be looking at either the goat or the mid-weight steer. The latter is what my Highwayman is made from. Same thickness to my hand as FQHH, but drapes much softer right from the start. Not a million miles away from (though for me nicer than, in a purely subjective, aesthetic way) the steer of my Schott 618. I think that would be a great hide if you wanted something a little 'more' than the goat, but without any concern about it being a bit /much. for going with the knits.

That's exactly what I was looking for, black G-1 like the Buzz Rickson / William Gibson. But I don't want to pay the ¥200,000 price. Buzz Rickson is like Eastman they've almost doubled their prices over the years, and the extra premium is hard to stomach once I knew what they use to go for.

For black goat I'd just get one of Shawn's Cagleco repros in his black premium goat. I missed out on his discount code a while back.

Which leads me to CXL FQHH. I also don't think the regular CXL FQHH would work with the knits (even the double layer ones). But I do have this thinner CXL FQHH jacket now that wears very differently than the 3.5oz heavier stuff. The thinner CXL FQHH could work in theory. Fingers crossed.

 

[Edward]

That's exactly what I was looking for, black G-1 like the Buzz Rickson / William Gibson. But I don't want to pay the ¥200,000 price. Buzz Rickson is like Eastman they've almost doubled their prices over the years, and the extra premium is hard to stomach once I knew what they use to go for.

For black goat I'd just get one of Shawn's Cagleco repros in his black premium goat. I missed out on his discount code a while back.

Which leads me to CXL FQHH. I also don't think the regular CXL FQHH would work with the knits (even the double layer ones). But I do have this thinner CXL FQHH jacket now that wears very differently than the 3.5oz heavier stuff. The thinner CXL FQHH could work in theory. Fingers crossed.

Yeah, that's where it pays to talk to Aero directly. Back in 2014, I visited right at the time my order got to the top of the list, and actually went through the available hide with Murray, picking out the two specifically my Dustbowl was made from.