Aero Leather's P. Goldsmith AC 31-1897 (The First Type A-2)

[Technonut]

I was surprised to see no mention of this jacket here since the sale opened on 8/23/2018:

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=3955

THE P. GOLDSMITH AC 31-1897 THE FIRST TYPE A-2

THE GOLDSMITH AC Order 31-1897 THE FIRST TYPE A-2

COLLECTOR’S ITEM

LIMITED EDITION OF 25 (Same as the original contract)

EVERY ORIGINAL DETAIL REPLICATED

HOOKLESS ZIPPER

NEVER PREVIOUSLY REPLICATED

For many years even the most well informed US Military collectors were unaware of the very first A-2 contract, AC Order No 31-1897 awarded to The P. Goldsmith Sons Company of Cincinnati, Ohio who were rather an odd choice as they were essentially a Baseball Glove Manufacturer, certainly they had never made leather jackets prior to landing this initial AC Contract.

Now documentation proving this contract existed has come to light, the search was on for a jacket or for further photographic evidence, it didn’t help that here were only 25 of these made and it’s very doubtful if any still exist but several photos of Hap Arnold wearing one of these first A-2s have recently emerged including one with the legendary Mary Pickford at The National Air Races, Los Angeles in July 1933..........

'Hap' Wearing The Goldsmith:

(Pockets & Flaps Are Being Tweaked Before Production)

 

[Technonut]

This Strictly Limited Edition of 25 peaked my interest enough coming from Aero to get my order in for one in Vicenza Russet HH... IMO, this jacket is a welcome departure from their usual military jacket lineup. More of an event really, something along the lines of what one would expect from Eastman or Good Wear, not Aero..

Needless to say, I'm looking VERY forward to mine... From what I gather, there are a few spots left...

 

[Edward]

Looks fantastic. Be a long time before I'm really in the A2 market again, but I'm looking forward to seeing other folks getting these. Interesting to see Aero making a big thing of a military pattern as you note, their bigger market being the civilian bits, I believe. Wonder if Ken is planning more in the military end of things?

Aero were the first (and I think currently still the only company) to repro the coastal command Irvin. I'm more surprised that this particular A2 model hasn't been done before, though I suppose with so few originals in existence it's hard to get information on it. The collar loop is a particularly interesting feature.

 

[Dav]

I was really tempted to be one of the twenty five, still am actually,
I think that battered steer looks beautiful on an A2 and love the button pockets, especially the revised ones. Must resist though!

 

[Technonut]

Looks fantastic. Be a long time before I'm really in the A2 market again, but I'm looking forward to seeing other folks getting these. Interesting to see Aero making a big thing of a military pattern as you note, their bigger market being the civilian bits, I believe. Wonder if Ken is planning more in the military end of things?

Aero were the first (and I think currently still the only company) to repro the coastal command Irvin. I'm more surprised that this particular A2 model hasn't been done before, though I suppose with so few originals in existence it's hard to get information on it. The collar loop is a particularly interesting feature.

It all started as a well-researched thread discussing early A-2's with button pocket flaps at VLJ. Ken was participating along with others interested, and involved. Photos, keen eyes, and the process of elimination sniffed-out the 'likely' discovery of the Goldsmith A-2. There still is no concrete proof of it's existence, as no originals have ever surfaced. At the worse, one will own a detailed replica of an early, unknown-maker A-2 supported by photographic evidence to have been worn by 'Hap" Arnold in the early 1930's (similar to the Security Aviation Togs A-2).. It's highly unlikely an original Goldsmith will ever be found, but until then, I will enjoy Aero's likely representation...

The fact that such a senior Air Corp officer has been photographed wearing one on several important occasions rules out the possibility of the jacket being a “private purchase” and the fact that there are several features not seen on any other A-2 leaves no other alternative other than that the jacket he’s wearing is a 31-1897.

The VLJ thread (long read) for those interested:

http://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/buttoned-pocket-flaps-a-2-jackets.20145/

 

[Technonut]

I was really tempted to be one of the twenty five, still am actually,
I think that battered steer looks beautiful on an A2 and love the button pockets, especially the revised ones. Must resist though!

LOL!.. I was following the above linked VLJ thread with interest, and then Ken had to go and show the sample / announce the sale! BOOM!! I was immediately checking through my finances to see if I could possibly make this work.

The Battered Steer is amazing stuff, and I was going to stick with it until I found that the Russet Vicenza was a 'go' with their button-hole machine. It's a rare-type of purchase for me these days, and it's more than likely the original jacket was made in russet HH... I just would hate to go this far and have regrets, no matter how striking the Battered Steer may look.

Considering the price increase to around $1400.00 USD at Eastman, and the level of detail that Aero is putting into this run of 25, I think the cost of admission is quite fair.

EDIT: Here's a pic of the revised pocket flap mentioned above. The final version should be bang-on. Ken made it from some Jerky russet HH to try on his button-hole machine:

 

[Edward]

At £675, given how exclusive this is, yes, it's stonkingly cheap compared to what the likes of ELC are charging now for even their house A2s. (I just hope Aero doesn't rush to follow suit - I like being able to afford them! ).

 

[Technonut]

Interesting to see Aero making a big thing of a military pattern as you note, their bigger market being the civilian bits, I believe. Wonder if Ken is planning more in the military end of things?

It was interesting to me as well. I've always been of the opinion that if motivated, Aero has the full weight of their talented craftsfolks, and established business behind them to be highly successful in actual contract military jacket repros. It just has not been their focus.

I'm sure that this project set-off a creative spark in Ken, given his enthusiasm for even the most minute of details to be included. This jacket isn't merely a re-vamp of existing stock. It is the evolution of the A-1 jacket into the zippered A-2, and the mostly forgotten maker who was awarded the contract for the very first 25.. IMO, Aero couldn't of thought of a better commemoration for a Limited Edition. I haven't heard of any future releases on the horizon.

Ken is QUITE adamant about honoring this Limited Edition, and ONLY 25 will be made, regardless of future demand.. IIRC, he couldn't even make this run available to his Stockists...

 

[David Conwill]

Astounding! How I wish I could justify an A-1 or A-2, a B-2 or B-3, or even a Jungle Cloth 37J1. I can't, though, so I'll just drool and be glad somebody is buying these things so I can appreciate their existence.

 

[Edward]

It was interesting to me as well. I've always been of the opinion that if motivated, Aero has the full weight of their talented craftsfolks, and established business behind them to be highly successful in actual contract military jacket repros. It just has not been their focus.

Yes, Aero's reputation is built more on the civilian jackets these days. I suppose because for some time that was what mostly distinguished them from much of the direct competition. Perhaps their military contract repros will get more attention now if they maintain the current prices while the likes of ELC largely price themselves out of the UK market.

I'm sure that this project set-off a creative spark in Ken, given his enthusiasm for even the most minute of details to be included. This jacket isn't merely a re-vamp of existing stock. It is the evolution of the A-1 jacket into the zippered A-2, and the mostly forgotten maker who was awarded the contract for the very first 25.. IMO, Aero couldn't of thought of a better commemoration for a Limited Edition. I haven't heard of any future releases on the horizon.

Ken is QUITE adamant about honoring this Limited Edition, and ONLY 25 will be made, regardless of future demand.. IIRC, he couldn't even make this run available to his Stockists...

The 25 LE is absolutely perfect for this idea - I don't doubt Ken will stay true to it. It could lead to some other interesting ideas in future, perhaps; I know Aero always used to say there was no market in a B2 repro, for instance, but perhaps something in a limited run like this could be viable. Or a B1? I'd love to see a B1, I've only ever read descriptions of them!

I think the only other LE Aero I've seen was the collection they did with the Ace Cafe during the Will Lauder years, at a time when Lewis were not operating for a couple of years (2008ish, if memory serves, though I've never been able to find any information as to why Lewis were not on the go then, it's a blank everywhere). Those three models were mean to be limited to just 50 each, though I don't know if even that many were done as I've only seen two in the wild. This is a whole other ball game, very exciting indeed.

 

[Sloan1874]

I'm amazed this hasn't been picked up, either. It's a good looking jacket and really is that missing link in the evolution of the A-2. I guess the Security Aviation Togs A-2, which retains the buttoned pockets, is the last step before you get to the finalised A-2 design. After that, you get the refinement of the pattern, or at least the stripping away of details like the collar stand and some of the complicated construction. I'm sure all 25 will be gone before September is out!

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

Although far from being an expert on all things A-2 I would like to give my 2 cents on this Goldsmith jacket project.

It is my experience that each A-2 manufacture put their own spin on their given A-2 contract. This difference is also seen from one civilian jacket maker design to the other. Given that, I wonder what manufacturers design is going to be utilized for this particular build?

Case in point, just purchased a prewar style Golden Fleece Half Belt button up with inset sleeves. All the while looking at the descriptive front and back pix and thinking it would help me proof a same Monarch HB button up. Only to find out that once I got that jacket in hand this said Golden Fleece jacket used a close but still completely different shoulder seam configuration. Not to mention, the sleeve design was not as expected. Definitely, not near anything that I had originally thought I was getting myself into! Basically, of no good use to me and telling me nothing that I was hoping to learn. Not withstanding & by comparison, from the outset I had both good, complete and detailed images.

Given, there is an image of the front side of the jacket. But what about the reverse? Yes, I saw that it has a inset/rotated sleeves. However, and as explained by my example, there are more than one design for those type sleeves. Also, each maker rotated them at different rates depending on the given configuration.

All explaining why when worn one make jacket has a slightly different feel than the other. I may be dead wrong but from my vantage point, at best this jacket is going to kind of resemble the Goldsmith but not what I would call much in the way of a truly accurate rendition.

Cheers, Dave

 

[Technonut]

Hi All,

Although far from being an expert on all things A-2 I would like to give my 2 cents on this Goldsmith jacket project.

It is my experience that each A-2 manufacture put their own spin on their given A-2 contract. This difference is also seen from one civilian jacket maker to the other. Given that, I wonder what manufacturers design is going to be utilized for this particular build?

Case in point, just purchased a prewar style Golden Fleece Half Belt button up with inset sleeves. All the while looking at the descriptive front and back pix and thinking it would help me proof a same Monarch HB button up. Only to find out that once I got that jacket in hand this said Golden Fleece jacket used a close but still completely different shoulder seam configuration. Not to mention, the sleeve design was not as expected. No where near anything that I had originally thought I was getting myself into! Basically, of no good use to me and telling me nothing that I was hoping to learn. Not withstanding, I had good images for comparison purposes.

Given, there is an image of the front side of the jacket. But what about the reverse? Yes, I saw that it has a inset/rotated sleeves. However, and as explained by my example, there are more than one design for those type sleeves. Also, each maker rotated them at different rates depending on the given configuration.

All explaining why when worn one make jacket has a slightly different feel than the other. I may be dead wrong but from my vantage point, at best this jacket is going to kind of resemble the Goldsmith but not what I would call much in the way of a truly accurate rendition.

Cheers, Dave

This is Aero Leather's take on the Goldsmith. Quite a few features are different on the Goldsmith than Aero's usual A-2 construction techniques, and they are indeed bringing something new to the table. Aero goes on to say:

The unique features of contract 31-1897 include a tab collar which buttons under other side of the collar, this is the only A-2 ever issued without studs under the collar, there is a pencil pocket on the RH pocket and a double row of top stitching on the pockets and pocket flaps while the epaulettes are fitted over the shoulder seam to hide the seam. The top stitch on body/sleeve join goes under the epaulette and the box stitch is added afterwards. The collar stand is wider than on any other A-2 and the neck hook is a narrow black metal hook also unique to this contract

As well as these unique features there are some that are found on other early contracts such as top stitch on cuffs and waistband, the piped button holes on the pocket flaps and the Hookless zipper fitting technique.We’ve replicated every detail that can be confirmed from the photographs available, we’ve used our experience gained from working with the A-2 over many decades to come to an educated conclusion as to one or two fine details used in 1931. We know how AC jackets on either side of this contract were labelled and the style of labelling so the design and layout of the labelling is virtually certain to be correct. We can’t be 100% sure about the exact design of the Goldsmith label that would have been fitted back in 1931 but there is an extensive library of their labels from either side of that date available online. We’ve taken the most commonly used logo and had it woven to match the AC label and Size tag. The shade of the lining is also subjective but, as best as could be judged from B&W pics, looks to be a mid brown so we’ve chosen the rust brown that was used fairly extensively in A-2s made prior to WW2

I find it poor-form for another jacket maker to come into a thread discussing another highly-respected maker's project, and offering their criticisms.....

 

[Carlos840]

This is Aero Leather's take on the Goldsmith. Quite a few features are different on the Goldsmith than Aero's usual A-2 construction techniques, and they are indeed bringing something new to the table. Aero goes on to say:



I find it poor-form for another jacket maker to come into a thread discussing another highly-respected maker's project, and offer their criticisms.....

I think what he was trying to say is that Aero are basically doing the equivalent of building a kit car version of an original. It will have the visual characteristics of the original, but not be the same under the hood!

I didn't read his comment as disparaging Aero, or the quality of the jacket they make, but he is right that you can only reproduce something to a certain level of accuracy from pictures!
This is pretty much a fact, since they don't have an original and have never handled one.

 

[Carlos840]

And the point of another jacket maker posting that in a thread discussing the merits of Aero uncharacteristically undertaking such a project?

To point out to people who are expecting a perfect historically accurate version of a very rare jacket that they are not buying a historical recreation, but an artistic interpretation of it.

 

[Technonut]

To point out to people who are expecting a perfect historically accurate version of a very rare jacket that they are not buying a historical recreation, but an artistic interpretation of it.

Kind of redundant since Aero clearly mentions it in their listing don't you think?:

We’ve replicated every detail that can be confirmed from the photographs available, we’ve used our experience gained from working with the A-2 over many decades to come to an educated conclusion as to one or two fine details used in 1931.

EDIT: I will add that regardless of who, ANY maker out there will only be able to offer their 'interpretation' of the Goldsmith... As both Aero, and myself has pointed out, NO surviving example has surfaced to date... Ken Calder / Aero has DECADES of hands-on experience with A-2 jackets, backed by a World-renowned business, and highly-experienced craftsfolks focusing on vintage-style leather jackets ... My faith and $$ for this jacket to be something 'special' is not ill-placed in the least..

 

[willyto]

I have to say that it is very disappointing to see any maker do a "Limited Edition" of anything. I just don't buy into all the hype that generates and the fact that people will miss on a fantastic jacket just for no reason actually.

I think this jacket looks better than regular A-2 (I dislike the snap buttons very much) and doing a limited run is against my way of thinking.

 

[Technonut]

I have to say that it is very disappointing to see any maker do a "Limited Edition" of anything. I just don't buy into all the hype that generates and the fact that people will miss on a fantastic jacket just for no reason actually.

I think this jacket looks better than regular A-2 (I dislike the snap buttons very much) and doing a limited run is against my way of thinking.

Horses for courses... I've been enjoying Limited Editions of various collectibles for years. I think the significance of the original 25 jackets, and Aero limiting the run to that amount a fitting commemoration, and as previously mentioned, may open the door for Aero to conduct other Limited runs of garments not in their usual line-up... Something 'special' every once in a while..

 

[Big J]

I really like what Aero, and specifically Ken, have done here. It's a really neat piece of history recreated very well at an awesome price. Well done all round.
Yes, we'll never know for sure how historically accurate the Aero repro is for sure because there seems to be no surviving original jackets. But Ken is really very good at looking at the fit in photos and making a pattern; that's the immense value of his years of experience, so I'm pretty sure it'll fit as accurately as an original.

I think it's a smart move to limit this to twenty five jackets for now; it'll have a limited appeal with history nerds (like me), and behind the curve hipsters who are still trying to get something 'you can't get', but I think that this is a jacket sure to appeal to many vintage enthusiasts; it's got plenty of 30's features without the 'military' baggage of the A-2s iconic look.

What I now want to know is what was found to be deficient in the design or manufacture of the originals that it was superseded by the A-2?

 

[Jeremiah]

Hmmm, only differences I spot with my naked eye are the button collar closer in place of snaps and the button pocket flaps again in place of snaps. Hardly what I would label as "military" baggage of the a-2 iconic look. but to each their own.