Aero Hooch Hauler advice

[twistdh]

Hi all,
I've been reading the forum for about 2 months now but haven't posted yet. Thanks to you guys I'm now addicted to leather jackets and want to buy a serious one!
I'm in love with some Aero Leather, especially the Hooch Hauler.

I'm from Italy, but I'm planning a trip to Scotland in June, so I'll visit the Aero factory (already booked an appointment) to try some models and make a decision on how to get the fit I want. To be honest i planned the trip to Scotland first to visit Aero, then for the beautiful landscapes ahahah.

I read many posts, but I still have some doubts...so I'm looking for some advice from you experts
As I said, I like the Hooch Hauler:

For the leather I'm thinking about the Badalassi steerhide (in russet or tobacco): I like the squeakiness (don't know why ...), but maybe it's too much for me? I'll have to try it myself . Is the Badalassi ok with light rain? That's my biggest concern about it. My second choice would be Chromexcel (which is better for the Hooch Hauler? steerhide or horsehide? In brown or cordovan?), but maybe only the thinner one (if available) to make it easier to break in. Otherwise I don't know.

lining: I love tartan (for the looks) and I think the heavy one (strome) is the one to go for for durability... would it be better to have a corduroy hem for durability or is unnecessary with strome tartan? From Italy it's quite expensive to reline the jacket, I think...

Zip: I understand from you that universal is the way to go... so universal brass

My chest is 93cm with a sweater (90/91 cm with just a t-shirt)... so I think a size 36 would be fine, right? I usually have S size (or XS sometimes…). I like the slim fit, but in the winter I plan to wear this jacket with a wool sweater, so I need to have a little extra room for layers (we rarely get below -5 degrees celsius, so with an alpaca sweater i’m ok in a leather jacket). In the Aero factory I will try some fit jackets to choose the right size, but I would like to get an idea first

Do you have any other suggestions? Thank you!!

 

[TheWickerMan]

Maybe you've seen it already, but there's a dedicated Hauler thread you can use to see how it looks with different leathers.

Zipper wise - yes, go with Universal from the start. Mine was made with a Talon initially, it broke in less than 1 month so I had to send it back to Aero for replacement. This was back in autumn 2022, since then no issues with the Universal.

Rain "protection" - I don't have any steerhide jacket so I can't speak for Badalassi, but my Hauler is made from brown Kelpie horsehide and I've worn it in the rain a few times with no issues.

Layering - I find that mine at least is not suitable for heavy layering i.e. wool sweater.

 

[twistdh]

I've read a lot of threads...how could I miss the official Hooch Hauler one? My bad. Thanks! I'll read it right away!

Wow your HH fit you perfectly! Really nice the kelpie too! with that water mark seams that the patina is pretty nice
when it dries then there are no stains (white spot or something like that) left right?

EDIT: regards the layering...i would like to use sweater (i have alpaca or merino) under it, but they are not so thick...at this point I'd better bring one of my sweaters with me to aero's factory...

 

[TheWickerMan]

Thank you, no, no stains or anything like that. It's holding up pretty well.

 

[Will Zach]

Maybe @TartuWolf can chime in, I think he has the Hauler in similar size.

 

[Dbrn]

Mine's CXL FQHH, what CaunckPanda would probably say is the older, thicker version than what Aero currently uses. It looks gorgeous, has zero give, and cannot be layered easily. If I were doing it again, I would go CXL Steerhide.

 

[TartuWolf]

Nice first post! And I think you've done well to set your targets on the Hooch Hauler. It's definitely still my favorite model from Aero, followed by the J-106 and Maxwell/Moonshiner.

Such an unfortunate time though - after major price increases by Aero I would likely not consider it if I were in the same position now as I was then. Unless money is really not a concern. At least that's how I personally feel comparing what I paid and what I would pay now.

If you're from EU make sure to make full use of the "made in UK" thing when importing - I could have saved ~8% in customs taxes had I known that.

When you visit Aero make sure to try the models with the same or at least as similar as possible in terms of pattern block to the Hooch Hauler as other patterns in the same size will not give you any idea on how the hooch hauler would eventually fit. Obviously great to get measured in person (if they do that), but also keep in mind that their idea of how a jacket should fit can be quite different than yours. I've seen quite a few nice fitting hooch haulers and some not so nice fitting or oversized ones. So it's personal taste.

Badalassi would also be my first choice if not for the nonsensical (in my opinion) upcharge. Although I've heard they have an upcharge for CXL now as well, which is even less understandable for me. Get an app that makes squeaking noises at random intervals, put it into your existing jacket and walk around for a few days - that will give you an idea of whether you can actually tolerate the constant squeaking noises - they're no joke as far as I've heard.

Being afraid about a leather jacket in the rain is silly in my opinion. Either do more reading / research or reconsider getting a leather jacket if you're afraid of it not standing up to the rain. Even the naked / undyed / unfinished stuff - if you're gonna baby your jacket and god forbid let water touch it then you have a museum piece on your hands, not a leather jacket. They should be worn bravely and allowed to develop with all the scuffs and stains from water.
By no means is it a water proof garment, but the leather itself spent hours and days in liquids while being tanned - makes no sense for the finished product to be damaged by water. People even put their leather jackets into washing machines with no harm done at the end. Main thing is to make sure you let it dry after getting soaked in the rain (or washing machine..).

For the hooch hauler (and other trim jackets) CXL is not the best choice overall, but it can definitely work if you like extra heavy and thick leather. I'd pick steerhide if given the choice right now, although horsehide definitely does break in and feel rather soft. I've worn mine since around 2023 July extensively - feels great now in terms of leather. Most of the discomfort / restriction continues to come from the pattern / sizing, not the leather itself.

You can't explicitly request a thinner one with any guarantee of success - the thinner batches were a (lucky for customers) mistake / error.

CXL color is pure personal choice. Cordovan being more colorful and bold, harder to match in my opinion. Brown (and black) being the "safe" or classic choices. In my opinion there's not many leathers in the world more beautiful and with more depth of color than brown CXL. That's why I chose that. I'm having a pair of Willie's engineers made in that leather to match my hooch hauler. Also have a pair of MOTO oxfords coming in that leather as well as their engineers coming in that leather.

In terms of lining please get nylon (not possible) or at least stain or some other slippery material for the sleeves - you'll thank me later. For the body it doesn't matter much - I have moleskin and find it fantastic (not too hot).
In terms of lining damage the first thing that will go will likely be the bottom hem lining. And that won't be mitigated by any lining choice unless you get a strip of leather there - nothing can stand up to 21-25oz belt loops rubbing through the lining in months or even weeks if you chose to wear your jacket with your garments tucked into your pants.

Universal zip is the only reasonable choice yes. I don't think ever will ever concede to using proper sized main zippers for their jackets - another reason I wouldn't really recommend Aero these days after the price increases.

I'll comment on the sizing in a separate comment, this is already absurd.

 

[TartuWolf]

In terms of sizing / hooch hauler pattern specifics from my personal experience:

My measurements:
~36" / 92cm chest
~31" / 78cm natural waist
~33.5" / 85cm belt
So I'm a 36 top and a 34 bottom is the way I see it.

The jacket:
37,5cm chest
50cm pits
43cm shoulders
44cm waist
44cm bottom hem
60cm sleeves
59cm back
61cm front (it has a ~1,5-2cm front drop).

It's a customized size 36 - I asked for broader shoulders and earlier taper (narrower waist).

First thing to mention is that it's a trim pattern lacking mobility. By that I mean that the top block is very flattering if you size correctly but rather restrictive due to lack of mid/upper back volume. Unfortunately the mid back slit/vent/gusset is mostly useless and gives very little in terms of improving mobility.
So I usually break things down into top block, bottom block and sleeves.

Top block:
Front is great with the 37.5cm chest and 50cm pits. Back is definitely lacking. If ordering again I would ask them to add upper and middle back width or straight up consider shoulder gussets or something like that (they would not agree to it). So this is by far the biggest flaw of the pattern - mobility reaching forward, especially slightly down.

Bottom block:
The default hem is TIGHT. Now I would ask to increase from 44 to 45cm without any doubts. I'd also decrease the waist width from 44 to 43 because I have a very slim waist and the straps cinched in is not a good look in my opinion. Otherwise fine as the bottom block does not have much effect on mobility or comfort. But I do like a rather snug waist so I'd like a bit more of a taper in and flare out. I would likely take 1 more cm in length as well as the jacket is borderline too short for my taste. But it's not a big deal.

Sleeves:
They are rather narrow by Aero standards but rather fine overall, especially compared to the JP maker foolishness that I have experienced and seen. I would definitely take a few cm more in length because the creases really shortened the sleeves by quite a lot. I think I ordered 62 or 63cm sleeves and now they are down to about 60cm.

All in all if I'd be ordering again then I'd even consider a 38 for the top block, longer sleeves, slightly longer body, more taper in the waist and a bit more of a flare in the bottom hem.

Note that Aero is definitely open to customizing the measurements and combining top and bottom block sizing to some extent, but the result does not guarantee what you request - it just improves the chances that it will be as close as they can manage to what you request.

For example my jacket actually had to be remade because the first one turned out with 41cm shoulders as opposed to my requested 43-44cm. Super glad I didn't get the 41cm shoulders as it would have been even more restrictive.

PS: Get an inside patch pocket from the same fabric as the lining, not the usually inside pocket that Aero offers.

 

[TartuWolf]

I do comfortably wear it with a thick wool sweater as well by the way. But mobility reaching forward is meh no matter how little I layer.
A few photos of mine and how it fits me:

 

[twistdh]

...

If you're from EU make sure to make full use of the "made in UK" thing when importing - I could have saved ~8% in customs taxes had I known that.
...

thank you for all the precious info!
In regards of this, what do you mean? I'm from Italy, so i have to pay all the duty and so...thank's brexit...
Is there a better way to save some money?

I've heard of the major price increases...if only i have discovered Aero earlyer... i buy very few things (especially to wear), but when i buy something i want the best i can afford and i want something that i like a lot. haven't seen yet a jacket that i love more than some Aero (at least not less expensive).

i have a pair of sneakers that squek (are made of some vegetable tanned leather from tuscany...some sort of badalassi leather? who knows, but they have the squekiness in common ahah). i like that sound, but obviously an entiry jacket is louder, we'll see that said, i like leather because of the patina...i was only concerned in regards of some tipe of stains that ruin the leather. But i have understood that it's ok some water, so badalassi remain my first option also because of the softness from the beginning. Shure the upcharge (120£ more, for badalassi...) is not really nice, but also for CXL FQHH is 60£ more (CXL steerhide is on base price, can be also an option if is beautiful almost like FQHH).

for the lining: i've forgotten to say that i've already in mind to have the sleeve in sateen (or cotton drill, or some more slippery fabric). i like tartan, so is difficult that i change my idea but maybe a corduroy hem help in that area where the jacket overlay the belt (i have a belt made with 4mm thick vegetable tanned bull, with solid brass hardware...so i think that the jacket will be stressed in that area). Do you think that corduroy hem is a good idea or best go with full tartan (and always sateen sleeve or similar)?

In terms of sizing / hooch hauler pattern specifics from my personal experience:

My measurements:
~36" / 92cm chest
~31" / 78cm natural waist
~33.5" / 85cm belt
So I'm a 36 top and a 34 bottom is the way I see it.

The jacket:
37,5cm chest
50cm pits
43cm shoulders
44cm waist
44cm bottom hem
60cm sleeves
59cm back
61cm front (it has a ~1,5-2cm front drop).

It's a customized size 36 - I asked for broader shoulders and earlier taper (narrower waist).

...
wow, i have to save your sizing advice we are similar in size, more or less...you are more muscular I think.

i have to take more precise measures...is best with only a t-shirt? relaxed and/or expanded? with the centimeter loose or thight around the chest? In any case i hope that in aero take some measure to help my find out the right size...i also hope to find some jackets that have similar fit to the hooch hauler to try out.
My actual leather jacket (it's made in italy and in the range of 250/300€...bought new at least 13/15 years ago, so in the cheap range, but not terrible) is really slim fit, and it is 43/44cm shoulders, 62cm sleeves, 60cm in the back. it's really fit size, but i can use the wool sweater with no problem (even if aesthetically it is too tight and the mobility is poor...but I like it and I use it anyway )

i was hoping to have standard size for semplicity, but you have made a lot of adjustment

for the inside pocket, i never use that (especially if without some sort of closure) because i always have the fear to forgot something inside, upside-down the jacket and lost what's inside i don't know.

 

[twistdh]

I do comfortably wear it with a thick wool sweater as well by the way. But mobility reaching forward is meh no matter how little I layer.
A few photos of mine and how it fits me:
View attachment 692511
View attachment 692512
View attachment 692513

View attachment 692514

wow, your HH is simply stunning! that brown CXL is amazing and the fit is perfect also for you...**** the mobility! ahahah. jokes aside, for sure this style is trim and the mobility is not a plus, but maybe the thick and stiff CXL FQHH don't help i think the HH of TheWickerMan in Kelpie is more comfortable mobility wise.

Thank you also for the photos with that heavy wool sweater...for sure a bit of layering is feasible. you rock it!!

 

[twistdh]

Mine's CXL FQHH, what CaunckPanda would probably say is the older, thicker version than what Aero currently uses. It looks gorgeous, has zero give, and cannot be layered easily. If I were doing it again, I would go CXL Steerhide.

thanks to you as well! i've seen your in the official thread, very nice with that spectacular CXL. I've understood that the heavy CXL FQHH is not the best for this style, even if aesthetically it's phenomenal!

 

[MrProper]

badalassi remain my first option also because of the softness from the beginning.

At least my two Badalassi are anything but soft. On the contrary, they are rather stiff and my CX Steerhide is much softer.
If you're looking for soft, go for CXSH or Vicenza.

 

[twistdh]

From what I saw I thought Badalassi was soft (like an altra fu broke in leather). I think that it can offer more mobility in a slim pattern like HH.

Ultimately I have to see it in person.

Thanks for the advice, I'll keep it in mind!

 

[MrProper]

I think that it can offer more mobility in a slim pattern like HH.

HH is not the same as HH.
Badalassi is not as bucky as CXFQHH, but not as soft as Vicenza HH (at least the ones I have). Unfinished HH is different again.
But I think your assumption is correct that the tighter the jacket should be, the softer the leather should be.
My Corsair in veg tanned sheep is certainly one of my tighter jackets, but also one of the easiest to wear. Then comes Vicenza, then CXSH, then Badalassi.
But to be fair, I still like wearing all my jackets and I consider mobility in relation to everyday use. I can survive everyday life in all my jackets. I drive a car or cycle, I can make phone calls and scratch my head. Do I want to do sport in it, take part in a zombie run or constantly walk around with my arms stretched upwards? No, probably not. There are more comfortable clothes for that.

 

[twistdh]

Thanks for the clarification. I’m looking for a jacket that I like and that I can wear all day and every day making the daily things

For sports or when I need extreme mobility i have other clothes for sure. I'm quite “flexible”, so i think about mobility but it's enough for me to be able to perform all the daily actions...Even if not as easily as with an extremely soft sports jacket

So from what you say I think i would be ok with every of that leather…only on the heavy CXL FQHH I doubt.

I will definitely see the Vicenza, even if in the photo it doesn't make me fall in love like the others.
Thank you again

 

[MrProper]

Some samples.

Blackened brown Vicenza


Chestnut Badalassi


Black Badalassi

Cordovan CXSH


Black CXFQHH

 

[TartuWolf]

@twistdh

In terms of the duties :
There is a rule that if you're importing something that is MADE IN UK and have proof for it then you can skip customs fees. In the context of Estonia that would have saved me 8% if I had known that.

If you're really set on an Aero - go for it, it's far from a bad choice, just not as good as it used to be before the price increases. And it's very hard to find similar Aviator style jackets for anything less than an Aero and outside of JP and related pricing.
If money was not a question I would order a black CXL steerhide J-106 today without hesitation.

I would have absolutely no worries about water if I were you, no matter what leather you select. Wear it in pouring rain and dry it properly.

With the newly added upcharge for FQHH I'd take the CXL steerhide without any doubts. If Badalassi had no upcharge - would love to try that even more than the CXL steerhide. Again, if the upcharge is no issue for you - totally go for the badalassi.
I've never handled it, but have heard that it is on the stiff side (which I LOVE) and CXL steerhide would be more pliable and break in sooner.

A corduroy strip on the hem won't do much against the thick belts and belt loops, but it should help a bit. Not sure if they would agree but I'd even consider a strip of leather instead.

In terms of measurements why do you even want to deal with measuring yourself if you're visiting Aero? Let them measure you. Unless you have strong preferences of certain jacket measurements (like I do) - then it would be good to really nail down what kind of measurements you want yourself and at least give that info to Aero.
And definitely ask them which jackets share the most similar pattern to the hooch hauler and whether they have 34-36 sizes in those. Most likely they won't because the smaller sizes are more rare.
For example I see that they have a goatskin sheene in 36 right now - that should be a very close pattern to the hooch hauler. The FQHH cafe racer that they have in stock as well.

Asking for custom measurements is tricky and dangerous if you don't know what you're doing - ideally stick to stock sizing as then you can also return the jacket if it does not fit. I took the risk with some custom adjustments because I knew pretty well what I want. And still screwed up with body length and sleeve length.. Learning experience!

I would definitely not rule out an inside pocket - the chest is rather small and not very practical.

The mobility is not horrible by any means, just can't hold a candle to my Vanson model E (which has a FULL ACTION BACK, so it's apples to oranges), today I wore it for 7 hours outside with kids, feels great, especially when the leather warms up.
I think there's two influences of the leather in terms of mobility - softness/pliability and "give" or stretch. FQHH gets very nice and pliable when worn in and warmed up, but it won't "give" at all. Maybe badalassi has a bit more give, I don't know.
Kelpie is definitely much softer and a bit thinner than both CXL and Badalassi - I've seen some gorgeous examples of it though! But I wanted the "classic Aero leathers experience" and could not pass up getting a CXL jacket Kelpie was 2nd on my list.

I think CXL steerhide would work better for the hooch hauler than FQHH but still not ideal. Don't know about badalassi. Kelpie would work great. Personally I would not even consider Vicenza, especially if you're concerned about the leather standing up to rain.

 

[TartuWolf]

@MrProper
Oooooh that black FQHH in the sun with the brown popping through.. No competition.

 

[jeepTj98]

At least my two Badalassi are anything but soft. On the contrary, they are rather stiff and my CX Steerhide is much softer.
If you're looking for soft, go for CXSH or Vicenza.

Kinda off topic- Yes I have the Vicenza and it is buttery soft.. it’s strange because I want to say that the Vicenza doesn’t show a lot of grainy texture on my hooch hauler. However I have a rockafella in Vicenza and it is beautiful with lots of grain character..