Aero Highwayman in big size (UK 52) - advice/experience

[Seb Lucas]

Thanks. I guess, you mean, it looks better 3 to 4 cm SHORTER in the back, right?

No way. LONGER. 3-4 cm - read my post again I went into the reasons.

I personally have all my short jackets to sit around a cm below the edge of my back jeans pocket. I am 86 kilo & 188cm.

But it sounds like you want it very short. A 1930's half-belt as Mike said is longer at front and shorter at back

I also think the A2 jacket - any kind of jacket with knits - looks less flattering on a large frame. It bunches up at the waist and accentuates the mid section.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Just checked for VANSON, maybe that might be an alternative. The Dakota looks nice. Not sure, if they are able to custom make different front/back length.

I have a Dakota - it's a longer style 29 inches at back in a size 42.

 

[padDUS]

Maybe not what you want to hear, but here's my 2 cents: If you want a perfectly fitting jacket, you should lose most of the belly or go full custom with your order, which means forgetting Aero. You have exceptional dimensions, and Aero's basic patterns will always be a compromise for you, as they're made for the average sized people. Good options to go custom are Langlitz and Johnson leathers. Langlitz will make you a jacket based on measurements you give them. With them you need to choose from one of their existing models. Johnson will make you first a fit jacket out of cloth and adjust dimensions for final product based on the fit of the cloth jacket. Johnson will build you any pattern you wish for (don't be scared of their website, their finer creations can be found from Instagram). Both of these companies make excellent products.

Also if you're unwilling to order from US, don't overlook Simmons Bilt. They get a lot of flak around here, but they build jackets which are on par with Aero's quality, and they are much more open to custom orders, including alterations to accommodate unusual proportions.

I ordered a jacket and leather pants from Langlitz twenty years ago. But I did not really enjoy the leather. It was a bit plasticy. I checked there webpage again and could not find a style that I like.

Simmons Bilt seems to be very interesting. And as they are in Europe, it might be worth to visit them after checking out. So they could take measurements, which certainly would be best as they know their products. Thanks for the tipps!

 

[padDUS]

No way. LONGER. 3-4 cm - read my post again I went into the reasons.

I personally have all my short jackets to sit around a cm below the edge of my back jeans pocket. I am 86 kilo & 188cm.

But it sounds like you want it very short. A 1930's half-belt as Mike said is longer at front and shorter at back

I also think the A2 jacket - any kind of jacket with knits - looks less flattering on a large frame. It bunches up at the waist and accentuates the mid section.

Sorry, that I have to ask again: did you see the leather piece that was attached to the jacket on the right side? Do you mean it should be even longer than this? Do you have your shorter jackets a cm below the upper or lower edge of your jeans pocket? Just want to understand...

Regarding the Dakota: I am not sure, it it is intended as a short or a little longer jacket. I saw fotos, where the jacket ends
just below the belt and others where they are longer.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Sorry, that I have to ask again: did you see the leather piece that was attached to the jacket on the right side? Do you mean it should be even longer than this? Do you have your shorter jackets a cm below the upper or lower edge of your jeans pocket? Just want to understand...

Regarding the Dakota: I am not sure, it it is intended as a short or a little longer jacket. I saw fotos, where the jacket ends
just below the belt and others where they are longer.

Oops Sorry. Didn't see that - using my phone. That's almost right, maybe 2 cm shorter.

The Dakota is a longer, hip length jacket.

 

[beckster]

I think the goal is to be comfortable and look neat. Speaking as a big guy this can be a challenge. Most modern jeans are low rise. The distance from the crotch to the waistline is too short for a big guy and a tight belt will not keep them in place. They sag below the belly and slip down. Not a good look for me according to my adult daughter. In the us you can buy medium rise jeans with a generous waist. English braces are really wonderful but inexpensive elastic button on braces accommodate much more freedom of motion. I'll throw on a cardigan sweater to hide the braces in many settings. This combination gives you a reliable waist location to target for in your jacket length. The Aero HWM is called boxy because the waist circumference and chest circumference are similar. . In the HWM there is a panel from the pit to the waist on each side. The side adjusters are there to taper the jacket by cinching up the lower part of these panels. I think Aero can make these panels bigger adding girth to the hem. I think that first jacket in your initial post is a good start. If you size a jacket to be easy to zip in a conventional size you are going to have way too much volume in the chest. Get a Highwayman that fits your chest comfortably and see how much girth can be added at the sides by Aero.

Rant on long car coats (optional read)
I have an attractive button front leather coat that I wear to look nice when out with wife. You have to unbutton it to get in car to sit and then the back tugs at you. I'll probably sell it here on the lounge. It is not warm by itself and not pleasant to live with.

I have Loden Hubertus (tractenmoden) with a big pleat up the back. You can settle into the car seat and be really comfortable. It is long and warm and comfortable I'm keeping it.

So for me the Highwayman is a utility jacket for spring and fall I don't layer under it. It looks as good as a waist length jacket will look on me, The suspenders and a good fit on the jeans really make it work.

 

[padDUS]

Your are absolutly right. I will see, what AERO can do. I also emailed Johnsons and SB. Together with Vanson, I hopefully will find something that I like and the will fit.

You are talking of elacstic button on braces? Never heard about it. I use the Albert Thurston braces, which a attached to buttons and have a short elastic insert on the back.

 

[beckster]

Your are absolutly right. I will see, what AERO can do. I also emailed Johnsons and SB. Together with Vanson, I hopefully will find something that I like and the will fit.

You are talking of elacstic button on braces? Never heard about it. I use the Albert Thurston braces, which a attached to buttons and have a short elastic insert on the back.

 

[beckster]

Another resource to explore is Thurston Bros, Insurrection, which is a US source for custom Aero jackets, I think they are physically located in Seattle, but ship all around. They have a thread on this site.

I too have and like Albert Thurston braces. I get compliments from sale clerks and the like for my very fancy Thurston braces. For a guy not known for sartorial sense I find the compliments wonderful. My wife just rolls her eyes and asks them not to encourage me.
All my braces button to the waist band and either my tailor or myself have added the buttons to the jeans and other trousers. Buttons can go on inside or outside of the waist band as far as I am concerned. Some people are very picky on the subject of button location and spacing. The braces that I find are the most comfortable have no name on them and are likely from china. The entire structure is elasticized. They are super comfortable and don't pull like the beautiful Thurstons. In the US clip on braces are widely available but I think they look too ad hoc and temporary. In my view braces are a serious business and an important element of comfort. Novelty braces just seem too insincere. All my braces have the same button geometry and I interchange them frequently. Buy casual clothes that fit you well and you won't regret it.