Advice needed on new Aero Cafe Racer jacket

[Rich22]

Hi guys, I’ve been lurking here for a while now, reading up on leather jackets, and now I’ve decided to buy one from Aero, and would really appreciate your help making my first ever leather jacket purchase a success!

I’ve seen a good few similar threads, and hopefully learnt from them. It’s a Cafe Racer jacket that I’ve decided I like the look of best, and think would suit my fairly muscular frame (6’1, 225lbs currently, though weight fluctuates a lot). I’m not a fan of black leather, so it’s dark brown or cordovan I’m after.

I can’t help but want to tweak the jacket a bit, and here is what I’m thinking:

1. Delete external kidney panel (keep internal panel)
2. Add a high yoke with a curve, no western point
3. Add 2 1/2 inch leather strip to inside bottom trim of jacket (assuming they’re cool with this. Seems a good idea for durability.)
4. Contrast stitching
5. 4 pocket version of jacket, with zips deleted from hand warmers. Maybe line the hand warmers with something nice.
6. Main zip to reach closer to the bottom, perhaps half an inch off?
7. Add an inch to length (or more even), as my torso is long.

There’s a few things I need to decide on, that I’d appreciate advice on:

1. Leather choice. I like really dark browns, or dark cordovans. The FQHH CXL looks fantastic, but I’m a bit concerned about people saying it’s stiff to the point it becomes a struggle to put your phone to your ear. I want to wear the jacket a LOT. The lightweight and goat jackets are other options, but they don’t look quite so good in the pics, but do drape well.
2. Action back or no action back. I have broad shoulders, but I prefer a cleaner look. Is the bi-swing back likely to really help much? As it ends quite high it’s above the real stretch point which is just below the arm pit.
3. Can you add cinches at the sides? Would you? I’ve seen that on other Aero Racers and thought it looked cool, and is functional due to my tendency to fluctuate in weight.
4. Wind flap behind the zip? Would you add this? I like it on my other jackets for its fictional value… I don't know if it is really needed here.
5. Can you add an interior pocket in the lining with no snap? Rather than adding a leather pocket with a snap on the inside, which will show through to the exterior after wear.
6. Lining choice. I’m leaning towards the tartan wool for its thermal values and odour advantage over the cotton drill. I think I’ll have the cotton in the sleeves.

One final thing I meant to ask involves the mandarin collar: I've heard people suggest that it is not comfortable when in a standing position, just leaning forward on the bike. Is that really true?? I will ride wearing it from time to time, but the vast majority of the time I will wear this jacket casually.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions! -Rich

 

[Thebuzzard]

Hi guys, I’ve been lurking here for a while now, reading up on leather jackets, and now I’ve decided to buy one from Aero, and would really appreciate your help making my first ever leather jacket purchase a success!

I’ve seen a good few similar threads, and hopefully learnt from them. It’s a Cafe Racer jacket that I’ve decided I like the look of best, and think would suit my fairly muscular frame (6’1, 225lbs currently, though weight fluctuates a lot). I’m not a fan of black leather, so it’s dark brown or cordovan I’m after.

I can’t help but want to tweak the jacket a bit, and here is what I’m thinking:

1. Delete external kidney panel (keep internal panel)
2. Add a high yoke with a curve, no western point
3. Add 2 1/2 inch leather strip to inside bottom trim of jacket (assuming they’re cool with this. Seems a good idea for durability.)
4. Contrast stitching
5. 4 pocket version of jacket, with zips deleted from hand warmers. Maybe line the hand warmers with something nice.
6. Main zip to reach closer to the bottom, perhaps half an inch off?
7. Add an inch to length (or more even), as my torso is long.

There’s a few things I need to decide on, that I’d appreciate advice on:

1. Leather choice. I like really dark browns, or dark cordovans. The FQHH CXL looks fantastic, but I’m a bit concerned about people saying it’s stiff to the point it becomes a struggle to put your phone to your ear. I want to wear the jacket a LOT. The lightweight and goat jackets are other options, but they don’t look quite so good in the pics, but do drape well.
2. Action back or no action back. I have broad shoulders, but I prefer a cleaner look. Is the bi-swing back likely to really help much? As it ends quite high it’s above the real stretch point which is just below the arm pit.
3. Can you add cinches at the sides? Would you? I’ve seen that on other Aero Racers and thought it looked cool, and is functional due to my tendency to fluctuate in weight.
4. Wind flap behind the zip? Would you add this? I like it on my other jackets for its fictional value… I don't know if it is really needed here.
5. Can you add an interior pocket in the lining with no snap? Rather than adding a leather pocket with a snap on the inside, which will show through to the exterior after wear.
6. Lining choice. I’m leaning towards the tartan wool for its thermal values and odour advantage over the cotton drill. I think I’ll have the cotton in the sleeves.

One final thing I meant to ask involves the mandarin collar: I've heard people suggest that it is not comfortable when in a standing position, just leaning forward on the bike. Is that really true?? I will ride wearing it from time to time, but the vast majority of the time I will wear this jacket casually.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions! -Rich

Hmm quite a few q' s!

I just ordered my first cafe racer, so won't be able to help with some, but here goes. If possible get fitted, I did, well worth it.

Fqhh and steer are stiff, I was also worried about mobility, after testing out new ones I felt much relieved. I didn't find it nearly as stiff as others, reminded me of fresh work boots... just takes a little time.
As for inside pockets showing through on a cafe, they are under the outside chest pockets (Or rather close) only some of it would ever show. Also I can't imagine owning and loving a jacket without inside pockets.

I ordered my back without the bi swing, I found it mattered little for every day activities and wanted a smooth back. I think for mobility and a riding jacket id go full bi swing back, not partial. I couldn't seem to activate the partial swing while standing, so went without.

I'm five eleven and a half (6 foot when dating!) And 190lbs and went with a 40 with an inch off the length. I was surprised that the chest on the jacket was the tightest point, thought my shoulders would be more of a problem. Once more, very glad I was fitted, if you're near Seattle Thrustons were great, I dealt with Carrie who was just awesome. So what's with the worries over weight change? Not to say I don't follow bear like tactics enjoying summer bbq and beer myself lol.



Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Sloan1874]

Hi guys, I’ve been lurking here for a while now, reading up on leather jackets, and now I’ve decided to buy one from Aero, and would really appreciate your help making my first ever leather jacket purchase a success!

I’ve seen a good few similar threads, and hopefully learnt from them. It’s a Cafe Racer jacket that I’ve decided I like the look of best, and think would suit my fairly muscular frame (6’1, 225lbs currently, though weight fluctuates a lot). I’m not a fan of black leather, so it’s dark brown or cordovan I’m after.

I can’t help but want to tweak the jacket a bit, and here is what I’m thinking:

1. Delete external kidney panel (keep internal panel)
2. Add a high yoke with a curve, no western point
3. Add 2 1/2 inch leather strip to inside bottom trim of jacket (assuming they’re cool with this. Seems a good idea for durability.)
4. Contrast stitching
5. 4 pocket version of jacket, with zips deleted from hand warmers. Maybe line the hand warmers with something nice.
6. Main zip to reach closer to the bottom, perhaps half an inch off?
7. Add an inch to length (or more even), as my torso is long.

There’s a few things I need to decide on, that I’d appreciate advice on:

1. Leather choice. I like really dark browns, or dark cordovans. The FQHH CXL looks fantastic, but I’m a bit concerned about people saying it’s stiff to the point it becomes a struggle to put your phone to your ear. I want to wear the jacket a LOT. The lightweight and goat jackets are other options, but they don’t look quite so good in the pics, but do drape well.
2. Action back or no action back. I have broad shoulders, but I prefer a cleaner look. Is the bi-swing back likely to really help much? As it ends quite high it’s above the real stretch point which is just below the arm pit.
3. Can you add cinches at the sides? Would you? I’ve seen that on other Aero Racers and thought it looked cool, and is functional due to my tendency to fluctuate in weight.
4. Wind flap behind the zip? Would you add this? I like it on my other jackets for its fictional value… I don't know if it is really needed here.
5. Can you add an interior pocket in the lining with no snap? Rather than adding a leather pocket with a snap on the inside, which will show through to the exterior after wear.
6. Lining choice. I’m leaning towards the tartan wool for its thermal values and odour advantage over the cotton drill. I think I’ll have the cotton in the sleeves.

One final thing I meant to ask involves the mandarin collar: I've heard people suggest that it is not comfortable when in a standing position, just leaning forward on the bike. Is that really true?? I will ride wearing it from time to time, but the vast majority of the time I will wear this jacket casually.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions! -Rich

1. I guess that would be do-able, but given that you want an inch added, this could look rather odd.
2. Ditto
3. They stopped doing this at the end of 2012. As far as I know, it's not even an option now. I have a cord strip on my LHB but really, I think the simplicity of the uninterrupted lining looks better.
4. Good idea. I have rust stitching on my seal A2 and it's a nice subtle touch.
5. You'd need to ask. If you're going to have hand warmers, go with moleskin lining - very toasty.
6. Probably not. You're moving into the realms of changing the base pattern.
7. Sounds fine to me.

1. Get some samples and choose one that suits. You might want to considered tumbled FQHH. It means you get the drape of the full-fat hide but it's already on its way to being broken in.
2. I have a Board Racer without an action back and I've never noticed any restriction. The compromise is to go with shoulder gussets rather than a full action back.
3. I wouldn't bother with cinches. You're messing with what is intended as a clean, simple design.
4. The panels at the zip edge are close enough to form an external wind flap. Tbh, I've got one on my Board Racer and I've found it a bit of a pest when zipping up.
5. Probably not. Again, you're asking for involved work that's very a la carte.
6. The standard lining is fine, it's not much heavier than cotton. If you want something warmer, you'll need to step up to Strome weight. Cotton drill is standard in the sleeves.
7. The issue with the mandarin collar pattern was solved years ago. You can wear it without any problem now.

Ultimately, I would be tempted not to guild the lily. It's rare that an attempt by a buyer to overhaul a jacket design one way or another is successful. Remember: Aero are the ones who have to put their label on it at the end, so I would have a chat with them.

 

[Fanch]

First of all welcome to the Lounge. You didn't say where you live but if in N America consider requesting a fit jacket from Insurrection / Thurston Bros in Seattle.

I own two Sheenes which are Cafe Racers with Highwayman collars rather than manderin. My last Sheene has no zippers on the handwarmer pockets lined with moleskin. I prefer no zippers. My Sheenes have no kidney panels. A corduroy strip at the bottom is unnecessary IMO, although both of my jackets are lined with highly durable cotton drill. As @Sloan1874 said Aero no longer offers a leather strip at the bottom of the jacket. The front zipper on the Cafe Racer / Sheene goes all the way to the bottom of the jacket; I suspect you are thinking of the J-100 / Board racer which doesn't.

Again, welcome to the Lounge.

 

[Rich22]

Hmm quite a few q' s!

I just ordered my first cafe racer, so won't be able to help with some, but here goes. If possible get fitted, I did, well worth it.

Fqhh and steer are stiff, I was also worried about mobility, after testing out new ones I felt much relieved. I didn't find it nearly as stiff as others, reminded me of fresh work boots... just takes a little time.
As for inside pockets showing through on a cafe, they are under the outside chest pockets (Or rather close) only some of it would ever show. Also I can't imagine owning and loving a jacket without inside pockets.

I ordered my back without the bi swing, I found it mattered little for every day activities and wanted a smooth back. I think for mobility and a riding jacket id go full bi swing back, not partial. I couldn't seem to activate the partial swing while standing, so went without.

I'm five eleven and a half (6 foot when dating!) And 190lbs and went with a 40 with an inch off the length. I was surprised that the chest on the jacket was the tightest point, thought my shoulders would be more of a problem. Once more, very glad I was fitted, if you're near Seattle Thrustons were great, I dealt with Carrie who was just awesome. So what's with the worries over weight change? Not to say I don't follow bear like tactics enjoying summer bbq and beer myself lol.

Thanks for the reply! I'm in London, but I have considered a trip up to Edinburgh for other reasons recently, so could kill two birds with one stone. I'm glad you thought they weren't too stiff, though I do hope the leather didn't actually feel like work boots. haha.

I also like my inside pockets- especially as I'll take the zips away from the hand warmers.

Am I right in thinking the standard bi-swing on this jacket is partial? I can't quite see how that'd work in any situation to be honest, unless your arms were down and you tried hugging yourself Happy to hear you found movement not to be problematic.

The weight fluctuation thing is just how I am- if I train hard I gain weight and maintain it, if I stop training I lose tons of weight. At 18 I remember weighing myself at the gym and I was only 146lbs. My heaviest thanks to lifting (and eating) was 245, 99lbs above my lightest adult weight! I'm in my mid 30s now, and a few years ago I travelled Asia for 12 months and lost 60lbs!! Those days have passed now, and I'll try to stick to the 210-230 range indefinitely. Would have been fun pushing my boundaries to see how strong and big I could get, but it's expensive to eat so much, spoils my social life and also stops me fitting in the clothes I own...

 

[Fanch]

Since you live in London I would seriously consider a trip to Galashiels to try on jackets there to see what you need and what fits. I forgot to mention both of my Sheenes have plain backs with plain yokes. I went with russet and black Vicenza HH for great feel and drape, well worth the up charge and then some.

 

[Rich22]

1. I guess that would be do-able, but given that you want an inch added, this could look rather odd.
2. Ditto
3. They stopped doing this at the end of 2012. As far as I know, it's not even an option now. I have a cord strip on my LHB but really, I think the simplicity of the uninterrupted lining looks better.
4. Good idea. I have rust stitching on my seal A2 and it's a nice subtle touch.
5. You'd need to ask. If you're going to have hand warmers, go with moleskin lining - very toasty.
6. Probably not. You're moving into the realms of changing the base pattern.
7. Sounds fine to me.

1. Get some samples and choose one that suits. You might want to considered tumbled FQHH. It means you get the drape of the full-fat hide but it's already on its way to being broken in.
2. I have a Board Racer without an action back and I've never noticed any restriction. The compromise is to go with shoulder gussets rather than a full action back.
3. I wouldn't bother with cinches. You're messing with what is intended as a clean, simple design.
4. The panels at the zip edge are close enough to form an external wind flap. Tbh, I've got one on my Board Racer and I've found it a bit of a pest when zipping up.
5. Probably not. Again, you're asking for involved work that's very a la carte.
6. The standard lining is fine, it's not much heavier than cotton. If you want something warmer, you'll need to step up to Strome weight. Cotton drill is standard in the sleeves.
7. The issue with the mandarin collar pattern was solved years ago. You can wear it without any problem now.

Ultimately, I would be tempted not to guild the lily. It's rare that an attempt by a buyer to overhaul a jacket design one way or another is successful. Remember: Aero are the ones who have to put their label on it at the end, so I would have a chat with them.

Thanks for tackling all those points in your reply, Sloan!

I'm wondering why is you think the plain back with high yoke would look odd? It seems a common thing they do, swapping kidney panel for yoke, I called to ask them. Other Cafe Racers I've seen from various other brands have the yoke and no kidney panel.

I wonder why the stopped adding the internal leather strip? It seemed a standard request from everyone that used to be on here to spec jackets. I'm more fussed about the function of the internals than the look.

Will ask about moleskin lining, sounds good.

The zip placing shouldn't change the pattern in any way I can see? Every panel cut will remain identical. The zip starting point is basically essential for me with this- I don't like the flared out petticoat look you can end up with with a zip way up there, and the function is unnecessary as the jacket isn't for bike use and I won't be leaning forward much.

"The compromise is to go with shoulder gussets rather than a full action back." The write up on the Cafe Racer says it has an action back... but are those in fact what people here call gussets? It certainly doesn't look like a full action back.

Cheers for all the other comments too, I have taken them on board I'll probably not bother with the wind flap, and good to know they fixed the collar issue. Zip aside, the only externally visible change I want to make is the back of the jacket, to make it more visually appealing, it seems rather an aggressive biker look to me. The rest are just pleasant details I fancy.

 

[Rich22]

That's odd, when I quoted Sloan a whole load of extra text appeared, which I responded to, and you can see in the quote in my post. On the thread you can only see the first few points... Peculiar...

 

[Rich22]

First of all welcome to the Lounge. You didn't say where you live but if in N America consider requesting a fit jacket from Insurrection / Thurston Bros in Seattle.

I own two Sheenes which are Cafe Racers with Highwayman collars rather than manderin. My last Sheene has no zippers on the handwarmer pockets lined with moleskin. I prefer no zippers. My Sheenes have no kidney panels. A corduroy strip at the bottom is unnecessary IMO, although both of my jackets are lined with highly durable cotton drill. As @Sloan1874 said Aero no longer offers a leather strip at the bottom of the jacket. The front zipper on the Cafe Racer / Sheene goes all the way to the bottom of the jacket; I suspect you are thinking of the J-100 / Board racer which doesn't.

Again, welcome to the Lounge.

Ah, that's just with the Board racer is it? Thats good. Glad to hear from someone else that also went without the kidney panel, and without the zippers on the hand warmers, and added the yoke. Cheers!

Since you live in London I would seriously consider a trip to Galashiels to try on jackets there to see what you need and what fits. I forgot to mention both of my Sheenes have plain backs with plain yokes. I went with russet and black Vicenza HH for great feel and drape, well worth the up charge and then some.

I haven't heard much about the Vicenza HH, I'll have to do some googling! Do you have any pictures of your jacket by any chance?

 

[Thebuzzard]

Thanks for the reply! I'm in London, but I have considered a trip up to Edinburgh for other reasons recently, so could kill two birds with one stone. I'm glad you thought they weren't too stiff, though I do hope the leather didn't actually feel like work boots. haha.

I also like my inside pockets- especially as I'll take the zips away from the hand warmers.

Am I right in thinking the standard bi-swing on this jacket is partial? I can't quite see how that'd work in any situation to be honest, unless your arms were down and you tried hugging yourself Happy to hear you found movement not to be problematic.

The weight fluctuation thing is just how I am- if I train hard I gain weight and maintain it, if I stop training I lose tons of weight. At 18 I remember weighing myself at the gym and I was only 146lbs. My heaviest thanks to lifting (and eating) was 245, 99lbs above my lightest adult weight! I'm in my mid 30s now, and a few years ago I travelled Asia for 12 months and lost 60lbs!! Those days have passed now, and I'll try to stick to the 210-230 range indefinitely. Would have been fun pushing my boundaries to see how strong and big I could get, but it's expensive to eat so much, spoils my social life and also stops me fitting in the clothes I own...

Lol no not like work boots! I work in mining and just got a new pair, combine that with my new pair of vibergs... sore feet on my mind lol.
I ordered the fqhh in dark brown, the vincenza was great and would have been second choice (blackened brown!) But I love the heft and how the heavy stuff ages.

As for fit and weight changes, eh my old cafe racer was rarely ever done up anyhow, find I prefer the look of it open. Vanity at times makes me chilly lol

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Rich22]

Whats the difference in the ageing of the FQHH CXL to the vincenza? And I mainly just wear a jacket when it's cold enough to need a zipped up jacket

 

[Fanch]

Russet Vicenza Sheene


Black Vicenza Sheene. I forgot this one has shoulder gussets but feel no difference whatsoever in fit or range of motion than with the Russet vicenza above. The Cafe Racer / Sheene design is more for V-shaped physiques than with the Board Racer. Since I am basically stick shaped, I needed to have 2" added to the circumference of each jacket (size 42). I suspect a stock size 44 Board Racer might also work for me but could be a bit tight in the chest and shoulders.

With both the Cafe Racer and Board Racer designs, there is not much variation between a jacket that is too tight and one that is baggy and too big. Hence my crystal ball sees a trip to Galashiels for you so that whatever you order fits just right. In my case, a friend sent me his size 42 Sheene, so I was able to fine tune the fit thanks to his gracious offer to help me size correctly.

 

[Rich22]

View attachment 84727 View attachment 84728
Russet Vicenza Sheene

View attachment 84729 View attachment 84730
Black Vicenza Sheene. I forgot this one has shoulder gussets but feel no difference whatsoever in fit or range of motion than with the Russet vicenza above. The Cafe Racer / Sheene design is more for V-shaped physiques than with the Board Racer. Since I am basically stick shaped, I needed to have 2" added to the circumference of each jacket (size 42). I suspect a stock size 44 Board Racer might also work for me but could be a bit tight in the chest and shoulders.

With both the Cafe Racer and Board Racer designs, there is not much variation between a jacket that is too tight and one that is baggy and too big. Hence my crystal ball sees a trip to Galashiels for you so that whatever you order fits just right. In my case, a friend sent me his size 42 Sheene, so I was able to fine tune the fit thanks to his gracious offer to help me size correctly.

Those jackets look great! Do Aero make the Sheene directly on request for customers? It seems to come out so well...

 

[Rich22]

After seeing a number of lovely Sheene's this evening, I have two new questions:

Two panels on the sleeves vs three panel construction... what is the advantage of three? Why do Aero tend to favour three?

The Sheene seems to run longer in the body than the Cafe Racer; rather than sitting mid-belt it drops perhaps an inch below the belt line, right above the rear jean pockets. This looks better to me. Is the intentional from the manufacturer or is everyone just adding length by request?

 

[Rich22]

To the OP, I am 6'0 tall, with a muscular build, and a longish torso ( I also wear my jeans low). I went with a 28.25" length on mine and I think it is good. I wouldn't want it any longer, though.
View attachment 33465

That's an example of both colour and length that I think are perfect.

 

[Sloan1874]

By the sounds of it, Fanch's Sheene is something similar to what you had in mind (I didn't mean to suggest the yoke would a problem, btw). He will be able to give you the low-down on it, though the extra length of leather just doesn't really work for me, but that's just me. Even removed, in my mind's eye, I can see where the kidney panel should be.

Aero stopped doing the leather strip when Ken Calder returned at the end of 2012. If my memory's correct, he said it was historically off and also made repairing or replacing the lining a nightmare. It was one of the bad habits in terms of mods that had crept in over time and had to be winnowed-out.

I think we must be talking at cross purposes as the Cafe Racer's zip ends as close to the bottom without looking weird and it's length is such that it won't interfere with biking, though adding length could complicate this. The BR has that more fishtail look, I personally prefer it, but it's horses for courses as they both look good. I tend to favour the original jacket designs because that's what makes them so attractive in the first place. Whenever I go through contemporary fashion websites, I see classic designs 'updated' and they never look as good, so I tend to shy away from messing around with them myself. Again, ymmv.

A full action back is a larger affair than the shoulder gussets. My Long Half-Belt has a full action-back and runs the length of it but it's a different type of jacket and behaves v differently. @Monitor, I think, has experience of both types, so should be able to give you an idea of how the CR behaves.

 

[Rich22]

Jacket length does seem to come down to personal preference, and I know I'd be making this jacket less historically accurate if I bring it below belt line in length. I'd have to lengthen it for my long torso regardless, or it would look ridiculous, btw.

I wonder why the leather strip made replacing the lining any harder... unless it was glued in. The other reason I read was that it spoilt the way the jackets draped. Corduroy strips have been offered as an alternative. I have such a strip on a non leather jacket, that I was always fond of.

I wonder if the internal kidney panel would show through to the outside as the leather ages? That could look odd, if that one section did not crease up like the rest. An internal kidney panel would at least prevent the reported problems of lining hanging lower than the jackets, without need for any corduroy.

Oh, and something I should have posted before, my measurements that Aero requested, measured over clothes (specifically I wore a very very thin sweater)
Height: 6'1
Chest (relaxed): 43
Chest (expanded): 45.5
Stomach (at widest point): 37
Waist (actual waist, not jeans size): 37 (I measured this at the point my belt sits, minus any belt)

This would help explain why my 44" suit jackets are snug when I move. What size would I be needing for a Cafe Racer jacket, considering the difference in chest measurements from relaxed to expanded, and the fact they're meant to be tight? 44? (and yes, I will likely visit Aero in person soon, lol)

 

[Rich22]

I'm concerned how many threads I looked at tonight, with beautiful CXL custom Aero jackets, only to discover the owners sold them 2 years later because the leather was just too heavy and stiff for daily wear, and didn't drape well to boot.

 

[Fanch]

I'm concerned how many threads I looked at tonight, with beautiful CXL custom Aero jackets, only to discover the owners sold them 2 years later because the leather was just too heavy and stiff for daily wear, and didn't drape well to boot.

Off hand I guess you might wear a size 44 that could possibly fit well without any modifications, although a size 42 with 2" added to the circumference might work too. I am 6'2" with 42" chest and 37" waist but have a relatively short torso in relation to my height. My Sheenes have a back length of 27.5" and I requested 27.25" sleeves. If you have a long torso, you might need a 28" back length. Ideally a Cafe Racer / Sheene should cover your belt plus 1" to 2". I hate jackets that are too short almost as much as I hate "stork arms" from sleeves too short.

If you order Vicenza or veg tanned goatskin, you will find that both drape well, and both are substantial but neither stiff nor too heavy for daily wear. I much prefer Vicenza over goatskin due to intangibles that I can't describe.

 

[Guppy]

I'm concerned how many threads I looked at tonight, with beautiful CXL custom Aero jackets, only to discover the owners sold them 2 years later because the leather was just too heavy and stiff for daily wear, and didn't drape well to boot.

It's not for everyone, but I think if you commit to breaking it in, you'll be rewarded. A lot of people just give up too quickly.