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Accelerating The Break-in Process

Raymundo

One of the Regulars
Messages
109
Location
Michigan
I think that the only way to get that ruffled look on the sleaves (like you see so often in WWII pics) is to get the jacket wet one way or the other. I have a G&B horse that is very soft but lacks the ruffled arms. I have hesitated getting it wet not knowing if the color might bleed through the jacket. Maybe the best thing would be to try a light mist first? Here goes nothing.

Ray
 

fedoralover

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,006
Location
Great Northwest
Raymundo said:
I think that the only way to get that ruffled look on the sleaves (like you see so often in WWII pics) is to get the jacket wet one way or the other. I have a G&B horse that is very soft but lacks the ruffled arms. I have hesitated getting it wet not knowing if the color might bleed through the jacket. Maybe the best thing would be to try a light mist first? Here goes nothing.

Ray


Ray, before I did the misting I took the leather sample from Aero and literally soaked it and then put it on a terry cloth and let it sit all night to dry. There was no color bleed.


I misquoted Mark in my earlier post about leather conditioners. My apologies to Mark, here is a direct quote.

"If you ever needed to condition your jacket, Pecard's would be my first recommendation.
Of course any conditioner should be spot tested first on an inconspicuous area."

fedoralover
 

Raymundo

One of the Regulars
Messages
109
Location
Michigan
Thanks, Fedora. I will definitely test a small spot first before misting the jacket arms. I stand corrected on the color of your jacket. It appears to be true to the original Aeros as one is listed on Ebay right now and the reddish tones are still very apparant even after all these years. I have read that if you use Pecards to condition a jacket start with a very thin coat and after working it in let the jacket dry for a few days.

Ray
 

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