A Suit To Make Anyone Proud

[herringbonekid]

Qirrel, what you posted looks very much like the DAKS (Simpsons) waistband which was supposedly 'invented' in 1934. maybe Alec Simpson, the managing director, nicked the idea from that book of your's (is it German ?)

the Oviatt's version - a belt sunk into a rear dart - is a different beast entirely i think. well, its a belt rather than a side adjuster.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Interesting discussion. I have an "Oviatt's-alike" pair of grey flannel w/ flecked overcheck trousers from *probably* the 30s, with a similar belt, but attached differently (essentially the same, but doesn't have the diamond stitching. A rip off/knock off trouser.)

I will say that this belt system does work very well, a lot better than other self-belted trousers (ones with the elastic or similar back portion).

 

[herringbonekid]

Baron, what country are your 'rip off' trousers from ?

i'm not a fan of elastic in any tailored garment myself, and find the DAKS waistband overly fussy.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

They are American, and were found in the Pacific Northwest.

 

[Qirrel]

But that looks like there might be an elastic "back section" of the belt which goes through a long tunnel loop in the back waistband.

Which is what I thought, too, when I first looked at it. But the text states that the belt is sewn to the waistband at the underside dart/fish. ("Der Gürtel beginnt im Hinterhosenausnäher.") And it goes all the way around to a buckle at the front, so it is not like the "DAKS" waistband.

 

[herringbonekid]

And it goes all the way around to a buckle at the front...

the adjuster is only about 3 inches long in that photo and doesn't go past the side seam. how would it buckle at the front ?

 

[Qirrel]

 

[herringbonekid]

ah, a separate belt that clips to the side buckle !

 

[herringbonekid]

weirdly placed watch/coin pocket on those trousers.

 

[Paul Roerich]

I will say that this belt system does work very well, a lot better than other self-belted trousers (ones with the elastic or similar back portion).

Agreed. It really does what it claims: it keeps the trousers above the hips by cinching the waistband forward, instead of squeezing it in all around.

 

[Tomasso]

Lawrence Pucci, the wonderfull old school Chicago tailor, would include a removable self belt with all the belted trousers he made. I never used them myself......