A Suit To Make Anyone Proud

[YETI]

The manner in which it was listed is iffy, but man o man... that suit! Looking at his/her listings the seller has a great eye for vintage.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271072696008?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649

 

[dhermann1]

Definite Holy Grail stuff there. Appropriate price.

 

[Paul Roerich]

The one bid on this suit (so far) has been made by the man whose catering company is leasing the Oviatt building's penthouse and rooftop. He's the only serious collector out there of vintage Oviatt's merchandise, and he rarely loses. (In fact, he is often the only bidder.)

 

[HardBoiledMarlowe]

Beautiful.

 

[herringbonekid]

why has the Oviatt's label been x-stitched so badly ? an amateur's repair job ?

also, the label that says 'belt and hip construction' looks modern.

just observations.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The Belt and Hip Construction Patent was issued July 5th, 1938 to James Oviatt, inventor.

http://www.google.com/patents?id=pu17AAAAEBAJ&printsec=abstract&zoom=4#v=onepage&q&f=false

 

[Baron Kurtz]

But you're right, that Oviatt's label is rather badly "X" stitched.

 

[Two Types]

I checked the patent number on the 'belt and hip construction' label and it was applied for in November 1936 and issued to James Oviatt in July 1938:
http://www.google.com/patents?id=pu17AAAAEBAJ&printsec=abstract&zoom=4#v=onepage&q&f=true

 

[Two Types]

BK: whilst I was searching for that patent, you posted it. Great minds think alike ....

 

[herringbonekid]

The Belt and Hip Construction Patent was issued July 5th, 1938 to James Oviatt, inventor.

i don't doubt it but the label looks like a modern woven acetate one (and its also been badly stitched on).
i'm not stating this is therefore a modern suit; just throwing those observations out there.
the rest of the suit is too badly photographed to get a good idea of the style details.

 

[Two Types]

It may be rare - it may be by a respected and much collected manufacturer - but it does nothing for me. I think it is far less exciting than most of the suits that the 'Holy Grail' label gets attached to.

 

[herringbonekid]

I think it is far less exciting than most of the suits that the 'Holy Grail' label gets attached to.

agreed. i don't think it warrants 'Holy Grail' status just because it's an Oviatt's label suit. 'Holy Grail' is usually reserved for suits that have outstanding and/or rare features. personally i don't care if a suit is Oviatt's, Hart Schaffner & Marx, Burtons or completely anonymous; what matters is... is it an interesting suit ?

 

[dhermann1]

Wow, I didn't even notice the stitching on the label. Do you think that makes it suspicious?

 

[Paul Roerich]

why has the Oviatt's label been x-stitched so badly ? an amateur's repair job ?

also, the label that says 'belt and hip construction' looks modern.

just observations.

Good questions. The Oviatt's label has been restitched at some point. It does look like an amateur's job. The original stitching would have looked like this:

The 'belt and hip construction' label is not modern; it first appeared on Oviatt trousers in 1938. (The lettering is a Deco variation.) Below is a page of the patent application:

 

[Paul Roerich]

i don't doubt it but the label looks like a modern woven acetate one (and its also been badly stitched on).

It's rayon, not acetate, and it's been restitched at some point.

 

[Paul Roerich]

It may be rare - it may be by a respected and much collected manufacturer - but it does nothing for me. I think it is far less exciting than most of the suits that the 'Holy Grail' label gets attached to.

The manufacturer is respected, but not much collected.


Good that it does nothing for you. You won't be tempted to bid for it, and will be able to save your money for things that you like.

 

[herringbonekid]

so Paul do you think it's an interesting suit aside from it being labelled Oviatt's ?

 

[Paul Roerich]

so Paul do you think it's an interesting suit aside from it being labelled Oviatt's ?

In some ways, yes. It's 100% east Indian cashmere; when was the last time you saw a 3-pc. suit of this vintage in pure cashmere? It's got some fun pick-stitching here and there. The pinstripes have been nicely aligned where the collar and lapels meet. The built-in belt on the trousers is definitely fun: James Oviatt was the first to make men's trousers with same-fabric, built-in belts ... a style that was soon widely (though not exactly) imitated, especially for golf trousers.

 

[Paul Roerich]

Oh, and the shoulders. Beautifully done.

 

[YETI]

In some ways, yes. It's 100% east Indian cashmere; when was the last time you saw a 3-pc. suit of this vintage in pure cashmere? It's got some fun pick-stitching here and there. The pinstripes have been nicely aligned where the collar and lapels meet. The built-in belt on the trousers is definitely fun: James Oviatt was the first to make men's trousers with same-fabric, built-in belts ... a style that was soon widely (though not exactly) imitated, especially for golf trousers.

Paul, If one were to have this suit replicated to the very last stitch(sloppy x stitching and all), what would a rough estimate be in cost?