5 Star Californian/Campus Halfbelt red russet goat!

[jonesy86]

Shinki

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/pro...-many-colors-3oz-1-2mm?variant=30943023726701

 

[Carlos840]

I would not be surprised to see 5 star prices creep up. Anyone who wants one of the patterns I sent can have it in their size for $50-100 less than I paid. I’m paying for the pattern work, as is everyone else who has sent a pattern. The key for me would be a larger variety of hides, some small but nevertheless important QC improvements and for the love of GOD, better presentation when shipped. I have absolutely zero doubt about skill and craftsmanship or the final product. Some tiny tweaks could go a very long way in advancing his profit margin. Increasing the purchase price=exponentially increased expectation. With that said Shawn might be content to occupy his current marketplace slot. Which is certainly unique. I have purchased an Aero’s worth of 5 stars while waiting for my next Aero. So there’s that too.

Do you have the full measurements for that one? I am pretty sure it would fit me...

 

[ton312]

Do you have the full measurements for that one? I am pretty sure it would fit me...

Same as the all weather. I don’t have it off hand but you can see the full spectrum in that thread.

 

[Benny Holiday]

Far out man that jacket is almost too good to be true! The price for that build is crazy!

 

[ton312]

Far out man that jacket is almost too good to be true! The price for that build is crazy!

Thanks brother!

 

[Claybertrand]

I sourced the leather from Horween for a jacket that JL made me about five years ago. I purchased two “sides” of steerhide and each side was approximately 20 square feet. Once the jacket was complete and there was probably about four or five square feet left over. FYI the jacket was a size 46 with a 27 inch back length.

Do you recall what you paid???

 

[El Marro]

Do you recall what you paid???

Clay,
The hide was 3.5 oz Havana brown CXL steerhide and I think I paid around $650 including shipping. They actually shipped the leather to me first and then sent an invoice a week or two later!

 

[JCSD]

Received this guy yesterday and couldn’t be happier. With each build and added specifics, Shawn and 5 Star continue to improve. Special thanks as well to our resident vintage leather PhD , Dr. Terry Mitchell. His images were critical to me getting this right, rather than just knocking off an Arcadia or rebuilding a campus jacket. All the sizing specs from my last build were carried over.
The key material differences are the liner and hide. This goat is called “red russet goat” and it is literally the exact same color as those older burnt orange/ terra cotta Brimaco CR’s. It’s far stiffer than the seal brown goat. The liner is quilted nylon and is sufficiently warm. I wish I had chosen this for the all weather HB too.
Here are some shots of the inspiration jacket(s). Obviously, it bears strong resemblance to GW’s Arcaidia, a jacket I’ve long admired. For my build I took liberties with the collar and the cuffs. Broader collar and way larger/wider cuffs. I did this to accommodate gloves more easily w/out fighting the storm cuff, plus they are leather lined for the entire height of the cuff, so they feel very sturdy.
Original jacket:
View attachment 280355 View attachment 280356 View attachment 280357
A campus I used to own:
View attachment 280359
The 5 Star repro:
View attachment 280351 View attachment 280353 View attachment 280354 View attachment 280352 View attachment 280351 View attachment 280350
I really love the way this one turned out. I built some hidden personal challenges into this ...things like symmetry and functionality flaws would be easily exposed. Passed the test with flying colors! Gussets work and the front displays perfect symmetry. Zipper is on the right/western side now, although I did not request it. The only flaw I can find is a tiny spot of red dye on the sleeve that is darker than the rest of the jacket. Barely worth mentioning and would be invisible to the untrained eye. I’m delighted with both my HB jackets from 5 Star and this one in particular... I can sneak up on the pumpkin pie and devour it without even being seen. I suppose the next logical step would be a cross zip but I am eagerly awaiting @red devil ’s East-West build to decide. Happy Saturday loungers! Stay healthy and safe!

Incredible all around!

 

[jonesy86]

Nice work Ton- you are quite literally an inspiration. With an eye for fit detail you have helped 5 Star transcend the blocky, made in Pakistan look to being a maker of quality repops. I wonder if they can take these learnings and apply them to their patterning in general or if there will always be a need to stipulate evey measurement.

I think they need to make a line of 3 or 4 'Tony of the Fedora Lounge' jackets in period fittings as a part of their range, with all patterns articulated from size 36 to 48.

They already added his jackets to their stock offerings!

 

[red devil]

Thanks RD. Kind of a coin toss on the leather. I like them both! I will say of the two, the red russet tips a bit more 70’s in color.

I will go for red russet then as I was leaning towards it, just wanted your opinion

As for leather, it would be between 40 - 50 sq/ft for a jacket as far as I understand. I do have 100sq/ft of 2.5 - 3oz navy CXL that I toyed with sending to Shawn. But I didn't feel confident enough to do so...especially not for a first jacket. Although the smoke in that hide would look stellar.

 

[handymike]

Yeah, hold the blue in case there is an oversight with the first one.
Once you’ve got everything dialed in...Go for the Midnight Rambler!

 

[Will Zach]

This build is a testament to ton's expertise in classic leather jackets and 5* skill in executing the patterns when given the right visuals and direction.

And it looks like the red russet goat is the right hide, stiff with no sponginess. Good stuff, congrats.

 

[red devil]

@ton312 which thread colour did you use here?

 

[ton312]

@ton312 which thread colour did you use here?

I asked for "match to hide"...appears to be a Khaki color.

 

[CRP]

I would not be surprised to see 5 star prices creep up. Anyone who wants one of the patterns I sent can have it in their size for $50-100 less than I paid. I’m paying for the pattern work, as is everyone else who has sent a pattern. The key for me would be a larger variety of hides, some small but nevertheless important QC improvements and for the love of GOD, better presentation when shipped. I have absolutely zero doubt about skill and craftsmanship or the final product. Some tiny tweaks could go a very long way in advancing his profit margin. Increasing the purchase price=exponentially increased expectation. With that said Shawn might be content to occupy his current marketplace slot. Which is certainly unique. I have purchased an Aero’s worth of 5 stars while waiting for my next Aero. So there’s that too.

ton312 - your work with Shawn has been a true inspiration. The fit and detail you have been able to get from 5* is amazing. I have my first 5* coming tomorrow. Just a basic black moto jacket to dial in the fit, then I'm jumping back in for a second one with a bit more detail. Great work!

 

[Hobbes1]

ton312 - your work with Shawn has been a true inspiration. The fit and detail you have been able to get from 5* is amazing. I have my first 5* coming tomorrow. Just a basic black moto jacket to dial in the fit, then I'm jumping back in for a second one with a bit more detail. Great work!

I'm thinking about a black CR style as well, with brass zips. I'm interested to see what you get. Please post pics.

 

[CRP]

I'm thinking about a black CR style as well, with brass zips. I'm interested to see what you get. Please post pics.

Will do - I should have it tomorrow.

 

[Jerekson]

I realize this is an old thread, but I stumbled in here and couldn't manage to keep my jaw off the floor.

Ton, you did outstanding work with this pattern. That is one of the most beautiful presentations I have seen.

I have a question - is the "Californian" model currently offered on 5*'s site your pattern in question?

FiveStar Leather Men Californian Half belt Goatskin Leather Jacket

Crafted from premium Grade A Goatskin Leather, this Californian Half belt Jacket boasts top quality construction with a distinctive Conic Brown color. Handmade and waxed for a soft and unique texture, it features a front zipper fastening and a high quality warm quilted Rayon Satin lining. Every...

www.fivestarleather.us

I would certainly like a copy of my own, and would like it as close to your example as possible.