5 panel caps (production)

[Arthurcaps]

Hello everyone.
I have a few questions regarding five panel caps, and since this forum states: “Everything from fedoras to five panel caps.” I thought this could be the place where i
could get some answers. (I had already searched through half the internet before i came here).

Here’s the thing: I am trying to make my own handmade five panel caps from vintage fabrics, and so far it’s going quite good. There’s only two little things I don’t
understand, and since this forum gathers hat experts from around the world, i figured someone here could help.

1. The ventilation holes:
Most five panel caps have ventilation holes made out of metal rings.
Here’s a picture: http://cache0.bigcartel.com/product_images/58563707/Products_Ugly_Lulu4.jpg
My problem is that I have absolutely no idea how these ventilation holes are applied, or wich material I have to use/buy. Does anyone know more about this?

2. The fabric:
With some of my fabrics i have the problem that the cap is a bit shapeless, the fabric isn’t stiff enough.
I noticed some brands are applying some sort of thin black/white/grey fabric on the inside of the cap, that fabric keeps the cap in shape.
Here’s a picture: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0065/8752/products/Red-Inside.jpg?104809
Does anyone know what this material could be? Or does somebody know another way/material to keep my fabric tough and in shape?

I certainly hope I can get answers to my questions here
Much greetings,
Arthur.

P.S. Please forgive me if I made any grammatical or other mistakes, English is not my mother tongue.

 

[job]

Maybe you should buy one so you can see how its constructed up close. Some people here have taken apart a old hat to learn more so they can change or replace parts on a nicer hat.

 

[Arthurcaps]

I currently have 2 five panel caps, so I know how it's constructed, I know the sizes of each panel and the way they are attached but I just can't find a solution for these two things, not even by taking them apart.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Buckram is the fabric used inside a cap to stiffen it. Some use a liquid starch that is sprayed on the cap while it is on a block to give the cap its shape.

[video=vimeo;13668143]http://vimeo.com/13668143[/video]

Here is a video on how to produce these types of caps. You can see that he is using buckram.

 

[Nick D]

My problem is that I have absolutely no idea how these ventilation holes are applied, or wich material I have to use/buy. Does anyone know more about this?

They're metal eyelets. They're widely avaliable in a variety of sizes, and usually come with a small tool for application. Prym is a large manufacturer of these and should be easy to get on-line. You can check local fabric and craft stores, too, to see what's avaliable.

 

[Arthurcaps]

Thank you so much, Nick and Ed for your replies, it's really helping me out.
Ed Wiser, do you also happen to know how the buckram is applied to the caps? Fabric glue of some kind? Or just sewing it on?

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

From what I have seen it is sewed on as it is cut to the same size as the panels.I haven't done just know what they have used in the video I posted you can see that he is using Buckram as it is the white inside material.

 

[Johnny J]

Arthur, there is also facing that you can use to make fabric feel thicker. You can get it to sew on, or the kind that adheres to the opposite side by ironing it on.

 

[Yeps]

1. The ventilation holes:
Most five panel caps have ventilation holes made out of metal rings.
Here’s a picture: http://cache0.bigcartel.com/product_images/58563707/Products_Ugly_Lulu4.jpg
My problem is that I have absolutely no idea how these ventilation holes are applied, or wich material I have to use/buy. Does anyone know more about this?

Grommets. You can pick them up in your friendly neighborhood fabric/craft store (I wish they weren't always the same store. I want a tailor supply store). http://www.fabricscentral.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FC&Product_Code=248102&Category_Code=home-kit

2. The fabric:
With some of my fabrics i have the problem that the cap is a bit shapeless, the fabric isn’t stiff enough.
I noticed some brands are applying some sort of thin black/white/grey fabric on the inside of the cap, that fabric keeps the cap in shape.
Here’s a picture: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0065/8752/products/Red-Inside.jpg?104809
Does anyone know what this material could be? Or does somebody know another way/material to keep my fabric tough and in shape?

A lightweight interfacing ought to do the trick, probably fusible for your purposes.

 

[Johnny J]

A lightweight interfacing ought to do the trick, probably fusible for your purposes.

That's what I meant to say.

 

[Yeps]

That's what I meant to say.

I thought that is what you were saying.

 

[Itscityslikk]

First off. Thanks alot for the original post. Its given me some great insight as to how to get started, and what fabrics to use. I'm still having problems with what sizes the panels should be and in what order they should be stitched. Would you happen to have a template or even a layout of how this is done. I know this might be inconvenient for some people, but i really need the help.

 

[Itscityslikk]

Does anyone know what those metal things that look like cookie cutters at the 1:30 mark of this video are. I've done so many searches in google but no results. Anyone?


[video=vimeo;13668143]http://vimeo.com/13668143[/video]

 

[Hepville]

Those are punching patterns to punch the several pieces of the cap.

 

[Itscityslikk]

Those are punching patterns to punch the several pieces of the cap.

Thanks. I did a brief search online and haven't found anything. Is that the technical term? Also, Do you know where I can find these?

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

The pattern dies will cost some money as in thousand dollars and you need the press to use them.

 

[Itscityslikk]

The pattern dies will cost some money as in thousand dollars and you need the press to use them.

Dye patterns for what exactly? The fabric I want t
o use is already dyed. Is that what those cookie cutter looking things are?

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Yes a Die is what the cookie cutter "thing" is called. The edge of the die is sharpen and is a actuate outline of the pattern of the cap or garment and one is wanting to make. This lets you lay the die's out on the fabric and puch out several exact copies of the pattern at one time.

 

[bke97]

Question

Hey Arthurcaps, I am really interested in your process so far, and was wondering if I could email you with some questions. I would greatly appreciate it! I can provide you my email address if necessary. Thanks!

 

[bke97]

Arthurcaps, sorry to bother, but if you could email me or give me a contact email I'd greatly appreciate it!

mine is: brycekilmer@gmail.com

Thanks!