30's Barbering

[alphonse capone]

Lately in my Barbershop I've been doing alot of short & sharp haircuts on older gentlemen (ie long on top combed back, short *16th* sides & tapered nape) Now I've got some younger 20's, 30ish fellows coming in asking for them. Did one today & the guy was a dead ringer for Dillinger when I got done. How many of you Dandys out there get a haircut like this? or would get a haircut like that? I've done scads of them for plays, American & German WWII reenactors * One of my favorites the German troop cut* , Cowboys,fingerwaves for the Clark Gable types, I've even put Harry Pierpont under the clipper several times grisly task it were! Modern short crew cuts stemmed from the basic cuts of the 20's & 30's & they still live today in one form or another. The cut makes the man, especially in the hobby. Train your Barbers Gentlemen.
Alphonse

 

[drafttek]

I started getting that cut about four or five months ago. Found a new place to get my hair cut when i spotted an actual barber pole not far from my house. I had to explain what I wanted and finally summed it up with "like in the old movies". The barber was a younger guy (I'm 38), so he says "Oh, an old man cut?" Umm...sure, I guess you can call it that. I get a neck shave too. Haven't gotten one of those since I was a kid. All for only $12, plus tip of course.

 

[Doug C]

Yea I used to wear mine that way alot, and probably will start again especially since summer is coming. But what I've been wondering about is the old style of non-electric clippers. I actually cut hair for a couple of my friends in the neighborhood and they always want it clipped close around the back and sides and I'd love to have a pair of those clippers, in good working order of course..seems it would be a little easier to control the fade too, for an amateur. Wonder if there's anyone still producing them?

Doug C

 

[Matt Deckard]

I was just in New York where I got a very good haircut right off the bat. i was used to having to train my barber every single time I wanted my hairs cut.

I explained in very simple terms what I wanted in a cut and was surprised when he actually followed through and in record time

Tapered on the sides
Parted on the left
Bowl cut just below the ears.

 

[herringbonekid]

i wish i had a barber who knew what a John Dillinger haircut looked like !

really short sides don't work on me. they make me look mushroom headed. but i keep the nape tapered so it looks vintage from the back.

 

[scotrace]

Lately in my Barbershop I've been doing alot of short & sharp haircuts on older gentlemen (ie long on top combed back, short *16th* sides & tapered nape) Now I've got some younger 20's, 30ish fellows coming in asking for them. Did one today & the guy was a dead ringer for Dillinger when I got done.
Alphonse

Franchise it. Start a chain of shops with guys who know how to do this.

Make lotsa money.

 

[Harry Pierpont]

I've even put Harry Pierpont under the clipper several times grisly task it were! Train your Barbers Gentlemen.
Alphonse

Grisly due to all the blood he drew! I didn't ask for a blood letting!lol lol lol

Just kiddin' Al, He does a fine job Gentleman, Even taught my wife, (Bonniejean) to keep it trimmed up between visits

 

[Rooster]

I just started a few weeks ago. I've had a "buzz" cut for the past 6 or 9 yeas or so, so I'm letting the top grow out now. It's in that "bad hair stage" Where it's not nong enough yet to comb back.
To date, all the comments I get about my hair cut go something like "WOW are you ever GREY" Nobody ever seen the grey with a buzz cut.

 

[alphonse capone]

Hand clipper

Doug C, They still make them, I have several vintage sets I've picked up along the way.I'll keep my eyes open for you I see them quite often. Watch for them at garage sale, auctions, junk sales you'll find them. The blades can be sharpened with a sheet of glass & valve griding compound. Hey Matt nice taper!! keep that Barber.
Alphonse,

 

[kools]

Hey Al,
It's nice to see a barber 'round here that knows what he's doing. That sound a lot like the cut I've had for the last 15+ years.

i was used to having to train my barber every single time I wanted my hairs cut.

This is why I'm very particular about choosing a barber. I train him once, then get the same old cut every few weeks. I've never received a cut outside of Milwaukee. I've only used 2 barbers my entire adult life, and I switched only because my old barber went on vacation at a time I was in bad need of a cut. I felt quite guilty for leaving him.

 

[Dr Doran]

You guys are inspiring me to grow out my (self-administered) buzz and get a real haircut again. I used to go to a place called the WAK Shack on Haight Street in San Francisco. It was expensive -- 30 bucks -- but it was done right. A woman named Kim Long used to do it. Faded sharply on the back and sides down to a zero. Long on top, slicked back. It looked great. I always looked for an old man to do it, but never found one: Kim Long specialized in "retro haircuts" and had a lot of rockabilly clients.

 

[alphonse capone]

Retro Haircut

Doran, Thats the style I cut alot * Most modern cuts are based from them*. slicked top & tight sides it's a very basic cut. It's coming back I think. Being a Barber I look at haircuts when I go out on the town or out of town, people out strolling, driving, standing at the crosswalks you see many retro type styles. My older customers all have stayed with their cut for years, I've even named a few styles after them I'm taking Scotrace's advice & starting to advertise *Retro Haircuts* & see how many men come in for one Hey Doug C I found a pair of squeeze clippers yesterday, F.A. Clauberg Made in Germany, excellent condtion * nice & sharp* zero with a #1 guard , The truth I've never seen one with a guard! that's why I snatched them up. Send me a PM if ya want them.
Alphonse

 

[6StringShooter]

Not sure if this counts as fftopic: but at which point is the top distinguished from the sides? In other words, how "high" or "low" is the taper?

 

[alphonse capone]

High Fade, Low Fade

6String ,not off topic at all. It all depends on the customer & what style, some men like low fades some like high fades. Fading is the same thing as tapering. Where does it end & start hummm. most retro cuts start at the skin ,ie shaved neck. it should end just above the parietal bone of the skull * roughly 2 1/2 in above the top of the ear for a high taper, low starts at the top of the ear, unless its a bowl cut or Military fade ie high & tight. This is how it goes in Barber terms, zero, 16th, 8th, 1/4 , 1/2 then blend with clipper over comb or shears over comb I prefer the latter leaves a smoother taper & just a shade off the top to keep the slicked back look, cut the top to short & you look like a banty rooster sorry Rooster no pun intended lots of young guys like that spiked look but for retro it needs some length to comb back. It's easy after 4000 tapers. so there you have it . How high is too high & how low is to low only the customer knows , so he asks the Barber
Alphonse

 

[Rooster]

Hey Alphonse, I shure could use a haircut, you gonna be in Davenport this weeK?
I'm just growing out a buch, It's at the stage that even with a lot of slick 'em I still get that "Sonic Hedgehog" look in the back..... It's just a matter of time.

 

[dhermann1]

I have an irrational pathological detestation of getting my haircut. It's all itchy and whoever is cutting your hair blathers inanely, etc. etc. Then I have to go home immediately and take shower to get those aggravating bristles out of my neck. The result is that I start out looking quite civilized and go through three stages. First, I know it's time to start thinking about a haircut when I start looking like Ludwig von Beethoven. Then I go through a phase looking like Franz Liszt. I know I've reached the limit when I start looking like John C. Calhoun.
The last time I got it cut, week ago, I told her to leave it a little longer on top. She cut it good and short on the sides, using en electric clipper with a plastic extender. Came out good. My intention is to try out the F. Scott Fitzgerald/Herbert Hoover, look, with the part just off center. When I learn how to upload images I'll share my results. My new hat told me it didn't want to be seen with me if my hair looked sloppy. Fair enough.
Actually, this discussion brings back fond barber shop memories. I had a Barber named Tony (Italian, of course). He had the old fashioned shop, with the white tile, the leather strop for his straight razor, the whole deal. The last step in a haircut was always that nice foam from the foam machine, slathered over your temples, and that clean sensation of the sharp sharp straight razor trimming your sideburns. And of course stacks of Argosy and True magazines, and even occasionally the good old Police Gazette.
Actually, the last step was a splash of hair tonic that made your hair all stiff, and a neat little part put in. That was the last time it would be parted till the next trip to the barber shop.

 

[Dr Doran]

Actually, this discussion brings back fond barber shop memories. I had a Barber named Tony (Italian, of course). He had the old fashioned shop, with the white tile, the leather strop for his straight razor, the whole deal. The last step in a haircut was always that nice foam from the foam machine, slathered over your temples, and that clean sensation of the sharp sharp straight razor trimming your sideburns. And of course stacks of Argosy and True magazines, and even occasionally the good old Police Gazette.
Actually, the last step was a splash of hair tonic that made your hair all stiff, and a neat little part put in. That was the last time it would be parted till the next trip to the barber shop.

Nice memories. My dad used to take me to a barber shop when I was very little. I had no idea what kind of cut I wanted. They'd give me whatever cut they thought I should get. All I cared about was reading the Playboys anyway. This was the 1970s, so I was opposed to having a nice 1930s cut and in fact that cut was regarded by me as uber dorky (although now I like it a lot). Regarding the unpleasant short hairs-I-want-to-go-home-and-take-a-shower-right-now feeling, I know that beauty shop cuts will also rinse you afterwards if you ask. Maybe barber shops could do that too? I guess not, if that's not the custom.

That's it, I'm growing out my #0. I have already let it grow out for a week since I have court next week. I'm going to find an old barber and get a real cut after it gets long enough to fade the sides ... I guess another month or two before I will be able to lie the top down with pomade. Maybe I can have a spiky top until that happens.

You all have converted me! Alphonse, you know anyone around the San Francisco area?

 

[Rooster]

My Dad was a barber from the early 50's untill 1976. We damned near strarved to death from the late 60's to the time he took on other employment......damned maggot infested longhaired hippies :rage: lol
I remember hanging out in his shop, he had a cool old pop machine you could get a bottle of pop for a dime. The Playboys were always interesting too. He had a couple ancient old porceline and red leather barber chairs, I used to love to jack them up with that nifty lever then ride them down again. I had one of those chairs untill about 12 years ago, it got left behind in my last move.
I remember getting a hair cut by him, and wiggling around in the chair as young boys are apt to do. He'd bend that comb back and snap me on the ear with it, that sure got my attention!lol
Being a barber's kid ment I always had a short hair cut when everybody else had long hair. That warped me for a good number of years. I compensated by growing my hair out untill it could touch my belt in back.

 

[Jovan]

At this point, I'm not even thinking about a haircut. I've grown it out for too long now to give it all up!

I find the haircuts of past decades fascinating. Didn't Adolf Hitler have a haircut like Matt's? Not that I'm comparing the two of course! -_-

 

[Dr Doran]

My Dad was a barber from the early 50's untill 1976. We damned near strarved to death from the late 60's to the time he took on other employment......damned maggot infested longhaired hippies :rage: lol
I remember hanging out in his shop, he had a cool old pop machine you could get a bottle of pop for a dime. The Playboys were always interesting too. He had a couple ancient old porceline and red leather barber chairs, I used to love to jack them up with that nifty lever then ride them down again. I had one of those chairs untill about 12 years ago, it got left behind in my last move.
I remember getting a hair cut by him, and wiggling around in the chair as young boys are apt to do. He'd bend that comb back and snap me on the ear with it, that sure got my attention!lol
Being a barber's kid ment I always had a short hair cut when everybody else had long hair. That warped me for a good number of years. I compensated by growing my hair out untill it could touch my belt in back.

Nice memories as well. Barber shops are so magic for memories. Sorry about the hippie fashion impoverishing your family. If it's any consolation, I always thought their style was abhorrent (and I was born in 1970, so I remember them very well from when I was small). And I remember in the old Peanuts comic strip how Charlie Brown's father was a barber and when anyone would say "I am going to cut my own hair," he'd get mad and say, "are you going to do your own surgery too? Make your own radio?" etc.

And Jovan, my good man, as for your "Didn't Adolf Hitler have a haircut like Matt's? Not that I'm comparing the two of course! " the answer is -- many if not most males had a haircut like that in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s! Look at photos by Weegee or look at the book Kiki's Paris (well, that's 1900 to 1930 but still) or Hollywood Babylon by K. Anger. It's a fine cut on a man, a bit severe but still handsome. Hitler may have ruined the little mustache (but I don't rule out a revival) but he could not have ruined that haircut, it was and still is too ubiquitous. [Ian Kershaw has a good recent 2-volume biography of him (Hitler not Matt Deckard), if you are interested -- it is considered the present "definitive biography."]

Having said that, though, I don't personally opt for the side part when I grow my hair long enough on top for that kind of haircut. I did get tired of the Hitler comparisons. Just like I got tired of people bringing up Clockwork Orange every time I wore a black derby. Or Bugs Bunny every time I played Duke Ellington records. Or ... never mind [he cries in his beer. EXEUNT OMNES].