1920s suits

[Two Types]

I just noticed the sweater worn by the bloke on the left. It has a very low opening and appears to be rounded rather than a v neck.

 

[thunderw21]

And his tie is wide. Probably tied really short.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Or just really short and wide. I saw one yesterday that must be from this period, and it would barely get around my 14.5" neck, let alone a proper adult male sized neck!

 

[herringbonekid]

Leyendecker, 1921:

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Shirtcuffs are rather wide. Starched detachable cuffs perhaps? Sproily got some of this kind.
Apart from that I am amazed how timeless leyendecker illustrations are. I mean the details may be typical early 20s but the overall impression is just classic.

 

[herringbonekid]

I mean the details may be typical early 20s but the overall impression is just classic.

Leyendecker's young men often have that insouciance that modern fashion imagery has, which makes them look less dated and more contemporary than (for example) a lot of the over-the-top-smiley illustrations in 40s catalogues. he was a master stylist in my opinion, as well as a brilliant draftsman.


what i like about a lot of these early 20s illustrations is that the men in them don't look like they're going to a job interview, or anything formal. usually they're simply enjoying leisure pursuits or just hanging around. in other words, the suits are just nice clothes to wear and feel good in. that's something i want from suits too; just clothes to feel comfortable in and not some big statement.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

You've just defined insouciance, I think.


That's an excellent illustration, and I'm not surprised it's from Interwoven. They later employed Tom Purvis, who did all the wonderful Austin Reed posters. Like this, my favourite sock advertisement of all time from 1932:

 

[Metatron]

I never thought a sock advert could conjure up so much drama.

 

[herringbonekid]

just got this suit jacket today, dated Dec 15th 1919. these are the seller's photos, i haven't had a chance to take any of my own yet:

the fabric has a lot more green in it than is visible in the above shots. this one is closer:

 

[Two Types]

Splendid. I assume that makes you a very happy man. Where did you find it? It looks like its in very good condition.

 

[Hyena Stomp]

^^ Cool jacket. I like the contrast of the light buttons on that fabric. I like the high button stance, too.

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks gents,

TT, US ebay of course. i've been looking for a jacket or suit from the 1918-23 period for a long time so i'm glad to finally have one to study. i was also expecting to be using it as 'design inspiration' for my own projects. you might be surprised to hear that after trying it on, i don't think that will happen; the high button stance and flared skirt doesn't work on me at all. at least i've saved myself the time (and vintage fabric) of making my own version before i'd tried on an original. [huh]

 

[Two Types]

Oh dear!

I'd be interested to see a shot of the jacket being worn to see why it doesn't suit you. Are you sure it isn't just the shock of seeing yourself in a very different shape of jacket that concerned you? Did you try it with various styles of trouser just to make sure it wasn't the trousers that were throwing it off. (That said, I've always found the long, wide skirt on that style of jacket a touch off-putting and certainly thought some of the earlier long period jackets that you have posted on the FL looked rather unflattering for any body shape)

Having tried the jacket on, and decided this style doesn't suit you, which body shape do you would be best suited to this style?

 

[herringbonekid]

TT, there's a weird long-yet-short thing going on which my eye can't reconcile. because of the high buttons, the front lower closure / cutaway looks like that of a long jacket, yet the chest area looks short. my brain is seeing two separate things at once.
of course, you might ask "why didn't you see that from the photos ?"
i don't know, i just thought it would 'work' when worn. i think the last two suits i've made are probably as high as i'll go with buttons. it basically makes you look small chested and long abdomen'd which is unlikely to work on any adult male. i've noticed that in Harold Lloyd films this type of jacket is nearly always OPEN, and in a way almost acts like a frame for the waistcoat, shirt and tie. eg:

this is a different suit, same cut:

 

[Two Types]

I can understand that. So, are you going to keep it just to wear open?

Interestingly, in the pictures of Harold Lloyd he has that very modern (and, in my opinion, unappealing) look of the waistcoat showing the trouser waistband.

 

[herringbonekid]

I can understand that. So, are you going to keep it just to wear open?

i'm keeping it as 'historical reference'.

 

[herringbonekid]

Bella Hess, 1925. note the straight bottomed waistcoat which is described as 'English cut' (?) and wool from Huddersfield :

 

[Chasseur]

TT, there's a weird long-yet-short thing going on which my eye can't reconcile. because of the high buttons, the front lower closure / cutaway looks like that of a long jacket, yet the chest area looks short. my brain is seeing two separate things at once.
of course, you might ask "why didn't you see that from the photos ?"
i don't know, i just thought it would 'work' when worn. i think the last two suits i've made are probably as high as i'll go with buttons. it basically makes you look small chested and long abdomen'd which is unlikely to work on any adult male. i've noticed that in Harold Lloyd films this type of jacket is nearly always OPEN, and in a way almost acts like a frame for the waistcoat, shirt and tie. eg:

this is a different suit, same cut:

I'm not an expert but I find more than a bit of "Jazz suit" in the cut of the suit which I think explains the 'long but short' quality it has. Just a thought.

Also, really great work you've been doing on your reproductions. Keep us in the loop in case you start making things for sale!

 

[volvomeister13]

more crooks, all early 20s (apart from one from 1926):

Just looking at that last guy could inspire some horrifying nightmares.

 

[herringbonekid]

this old thread contains some great window display shots from 1916 to 1921:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?20451-AMAZING-Vintage-Photos-of-Suits

...many narrow wrap DBs.