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1920s - fashion with fun, whimsy and chic

Mojito

One Too Many
Messages
1,371
Location
Sydney
They're lovely, Lady Day - there were so many beautiful objects made of glass coming out of Czechoslovakia in that period! I think I've mentioned before how much I love the graphics of the 1920s, and the design on the card is a good example of that.

One of the outfits I wanted to photograph today is a day dress made in Austria that is covered with buttons as part of a decorative pattern, but unfortunately chaos has descended - my sister is home for the holidays, and there are three children under six running riot (and I'll admit I'm happily running riot with them!). So instead of getting home after work, putting on my makeup, trying to tame my too-long bob, and getting out some of the gowns and asking someone to photograph me wearing them, I just plonked some of the headwear on my work-dishevelled head and fired off a few self-portraits in looming close-up, and asked someone to photograph the sautoir necklace which was just too long to work with the self-portrait method. But here's a start on some new accessories...

whitefeatherfan.jpg

Single plume feather fan, ivorine handle

Bluebeadedbag.jpg

Blue beaded bag, ring closures. Bags from the 20s can be hard to specifically date, as many styles carried on from the teens and lasted into the 30s. I feel this particular style should be seen in motion, as it always looks a bit limp photographed like this...but when it moves, it sparkles and all the looped beads sway.

RedSautoir2.jpg


RedSautoir.jpg


Crocheted sautoir (also known as rope) of red seed beads with glass lampworked beads at ends. This was worn as shown in the top picture, or could be knotted or doubled around the neck with the ends loose.
 

Mojito

One Too Many
Messages
1,371
Location
Sydney
And some headwear...

BoudoirBandeau.jpg

Boudoir cap

GoldLameCloche2-1.jpg

Gold lame cloche with velvet and metallic lace trim and rhinstones...I do like this one! The lame drapes slightly over either side. Nicely intact silk lining.

Bluefloralcloche.jpg

Not mine - this one I bought as a gift. Blue horsehair cloche...the flower trim is beautifully intact.
 

Mojito

One Too Many
Messages
1,371
Location
Sydney
Those are gorgeous, Laura - I hadn't seen the updates to Vintage Martini's Graveyard. Now I need to tie my fingers together so I don't buy the green dress with the gypsy sash as a Glorious Ruin to "save". I'm sure it will find a good home with someone who can put it to good use (or just conserve it). I see the lovely devore velvet with the ombre effect has already found a home. Good to see the beaded and sequinned dress has also been bought - hopefully by someone sensitive to the few "issues" it has.
 

Laura Chase

One Too Many
Messages
1,354
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
Mojito said:
Those are gorgeous, Laura - I hadn't seen the updates to Vintage Martini's Graveyard. Now I need to tie my fingers together so I don't buy the green dress with the gypsy sash as a Glorious Ruin to "save". I'm sure it will find a good home with someone who can put it to good use (or just conserve it). I see the lovely devore velvet with the ombre effect has already found a home. Good to see the beaded and sequinned dress has also been bought - hopefully by someone sensitive to the few "issues" it has.

It seems like the last two dresses could become wearable.

I was wondering, what do you do for everyday wear, do you wear vintage items or do you try to find new clothes that look 20's? I think this is very possible (and practical), by using details that suggest a certain history awareness rather than being top to toe winter 1928. ;) I was just wondering if you have come upon certain cotton or wool items from the 20's that would be suitable for everyday wear - have these items survived at all, and is there something specific to go after?
 

Mojito

One Too Many
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1,371
Location
Sydney
There are a few items that could be durable enough for everyday wear, Laura...I have a green velvet jacket that - although it has a few rubs - I use with jeans in winter. There's a fairly heavy silk crepe dress that, although style wouldn't be suitable for work, would stand up to a day's regular use. Wool is also a possibility...and there's a heavy fabric used in a sports over dress that would also be useable for today (I just need to work out what it is - I'm so useless on textile identification). Some of the heavier cottons are pretty hardy as well.

I doubt there's many that you'd want to wear too often, though...I get very nervous about even gently handwashing garments, and I'm never too sure if the dyes are fixed or if (in the pre-sanforizing garments) liable to shrinkage. Dry cleaning chemicals make me nervous, and vintage dry cleaning experts are too expensive for extensive regular use. Perhaps someone more confident with cleaning the older fabrics could identify some for daily wear.

I do often gesture back to the 20s in my daily attire and use some vintage accessories.

I was staying with friends one winter, and took myself out for an early morning run. On my return, they were standing outside and saw my arrival. One had a chuckle to the other about something then went inside - when I finished stretching, my friend explained that her husband was amused that I even "ran in flapper attire". I was wearing a bandeau style headband - actually very practical for running, as it kept my short hair in place and covered my ears so they didn't freeze!
 

TheRedHead

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Ireland
underwear of the 20's

Mojito, (and the other experts on this thread) what did they wear in terms of underwear? I know corsets were gone at this stage. Thanks
 

Mojito

One Too Many
Messages
1,371
Location
Sydney
Hallo RedHead - that is a very lovely dress! I can see why you fell for it. Use as a display is a good idea (as long as there's not too much weight on the shoulders for too long, or the beading isn't too heavy), or even for use as a pattern and transferring the beading or other elements over to a new dress if you're talented in that way (although some of the 20s beads can be absolutely tiny). Some gowns with a ruined bodice can be adapted for use as a skirt. Be careful, though - the glorious ruins are very seductive! I have to exercise a lot of restraint not to "adopt" more of them. I tend to save the money on a few of these pieces and buy one in better condition. There are always those, however, that steal your heart, no matter what their condition.

If you go back a page in this thread, you'll find some discussion of foundation garments in the 1920s...including corsets, which did not disappear during the decade. There were a variety of underpinnings to get the desired sillouette, depending on what your build was and where in the decade you fitted in - corsets, camisoles, teddies and/or envelope chemises, slips, girdles, "dance sets" (tap pants and early bandeau style bras), finally evolving into what was an early form of the modern brassiere.
 
P

Paul

Guest
TheRedHead said:
Mojito, (and the other experts on this thread) what did they wear in terms of underwear? I know corsets were gone at this stage. Thanks

Not sure if this link been posted before it's great for corset history from around 20's / 30's onwards...
http://www.corsetiere.net/
As Mojito say there is more info in earlier post, what one particular lady wore would in my view depend up on her age, if you were wearing tightly laced corset before the 1920's then it would be very hard for your body to adapt to not wearing a corset, if you had only been wearing a corset for a shorter time then it would not be hard to change to a lighter girdle style corset or not wear one at all.

the other change in corset of that period was also to front or fan lacing as these could be lace on your own, the social class system was braking down then and some ladies would not have maids to help dress them now and other ladies were starting to move into there own houses or share with other young ladies so had to lace corset.

Remember in the 20's stocking were not as long in the leg as today coming a few inches above the knee, hence "seeing stocking tops" was
a term started in the 20's, so the garter length from the bottom of the corset had to be very long. stocking in appearance wear also very think compared today ever 20's sheer one look very thick

this is my page about 20's roll on garter another way of holding up the stocking along with original 20's knickers and white silk stockings.
1920 roll on garter and stockings workshopl
 

TheRedHead

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Ireland
1920's undies!

Thanks to Mojito and Paul for all the great info! I should have given more detail in my post, as I had read the previous page, I guess I was thinking along the lines of images and more detail. Paul, I enjoyed your really informative web page, it was great to see how the stockings of the time looked and were worn. It inspired me to start watching a pair on you know where..! I currently write from hospital! So that gives me loads of dangerous time for browsing and buying, lucky my paypal a/c seems to be throwing up issues! I am pregnant and nearing the end but hope to be discharged again in the next day or so. Probably my hubby will be knocked on the doorstep tomorrow morning by my vintage online shopping he knows nothing about (eek!) Unfortunately, the seller of the pink dress contacted me today to say she has misplaced it! But I did go ahead and reserve the lime green baby above from Vintage Martini! As you said Mojito, someone needs to tie my fingers together! You also gave me another informative link Paul, which I am going to check out. Regards,
 

TheRedHead

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Ireland
Egyptian revival

I found it very interesting to read in Paul's research about the Egyptian influence on 1920's make up. I know it existed in clothes too, must do more research. I was in Egypt in August and was left completely haunted by the tombs, the carvings, the temples everything! Its funny when your interests come full circle! Egyptians are wonderful; friendly and kind and we left with gifts as well as purchases of silk scarves, very flapperish beaded head dresses and some galbayas. Will upload images once home.
 

TheRedHead

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Ireland
...picture

I saw this picture on rolledstockings.com which is a great fun site about flappers, but I didn't see a date on it there either.
 

DecoDahlia

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Location
Los Angeles
A recent purchase/acquisition of mine. It's a russet silk/rayon velvet gown, with pleats attaching the skirt/train part at the hip. It has gold, metallic Gros Point de Venise lace, and the skirt's train is lined in gold lamé. Didn't know whether to post it here or in the purchases thread. These are the seller's photos.

FrontFull1_tp.jpg
[/IMG]
The front.

BackFull1_tp.jpg
[/IMG]
The back.

SkirtFrontDetail_tp.jpg
[/IMG]
Front skirt detail.

Top_tp.jpg
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Front, top detail.
 

texasgirl

One Too Many
Messages
1,423
Location
Dallas, TX
This was on ebay recently. It was out of my budget, went for US $313.87

I don't know much about these type of headbands, but thought maybe Mojito or others would have some insights.

sellers description:
This is one of the rarest 1920's accessories to find and a must have for any serious collector! A beautiful, original antique flapper headband/tiara/bandeau. Perfect to wear with your beaded 1920's party dresses! It is made of metal and very fine chain (like you might see in a necklace) ands has tons of shimmering, prong set rhinestones! It is held on the head securely with a new, stretchy piece of elastic. It is in good condition for its age and totally wearable. There is only one rhinestone missing, which can be easily replaced. The metal parts are a bit fragile in places and has broken on one side. Personally, I would have this corrected before I give it a serious workout. I think it can be soldered in the weak areas and made as good as new by any reputable jewelry repair person. The piece obviously has a darkened patina of a true antique -- I got so many compliments wearing this amazing bandeau. The headband measures 14 1/2" long (excluding elastic) and almost 1 1/2" wide.


0ebe_1.jpg

0f4a_1.jpg

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Mojito

One Too Many
Messages
1,371
Location
Sydney
Great photo, Goldfish -with shoes and cloches to die for! I'd say second half of the decade...I'd go for around 1926-1928, as the cloches aren't yet showing much forehead...probably right in the middle there. I'd have to look at it more detail to hazzard a more precise guess.

Love that dress, DecoDahlia! Can't wait to see a photo of you wearing it. So simple and so elegant, with that beautiful brown velvet so popular at the time, and the metallic lace and asymetrical hem, dipping deeper at the back, which are so lovely.

TexasGirl, that's a beautiful bandeau. I love that style, and was tempted to bid on it...but I already have quite a few that are similar and I can't justify another yet when I'm trying to fill some other holes. I haven't seen that exact style, but I've seen many that are very similar with the brass mesh and prong set rhinestone construction. I posted a few photos of my own on the second page of this thread. Here's one of them:

Eyesbandeau.jpg

The mesh, normally quite supple, becomes stiffered with age and more prone to the breaks that are described in the example sold on ebay. I find that with careful cleaning to remove the verdigris and any built up grime, a lot of the suppleness can be restored, and with that flexibility they're less prone to damage.

I've had some great buys lately, including a couple of gorgeous evening cloches that I'll try to photograph over the next couple of days.
 
P

Paul

Guest
Just look at the back of DecoDahlia dress I bet that was scandalise low back in the 20's, it's a fabulous dress and I cannot wait to see it been worn.
 

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