Two auctions I was watching ended today, during service time. I put my phone on airplane mode and prayed to forget about them.
Fortunately I've never heard hats mentioned in a sermon. Crowns, yes, but fortunately not today.
Circumference measurements are actually pretty hard to get accurate with a soft tape. I get pretty good ones using a piece of copper wire, which can be formed to the inside above the break, marked, then removed, straightened, and measured.
A lot of, if not most, vintage hats also have the size...
I've been much less prolific posting in hat wearing and new hat (shhh ... I do have a couple) threads, but it isn't because my interest (infatuation) has waned.
Hatmaking and hatmaking tools has just been my preoccupation. Two reblock, resize, rebuilds in sizes other than my own called for...
That's great, Scott (you've probably heard that all your life)!
Really nice, man.
Where did you buy the Nutria hatbody?
Don't tell me you're a trapper too .... please.
Do you want to buy one?
;-)
I've seen hats with the designations you give, but have never held a block so designated in my hands.
I've held a round one. I could probably bowl with it if I could better control my wrist.
That said, I probably did go a little far putting round blocks in the same...
I wasn't saying that about modern production (or reproduction). After buying the first one I've been pretty careful bidding on eBay blocks. There are actually more vintage ones that are round than I expected. I'm not sure what hat company in Canada was mined for blocks, but many of the blocks I...
Hatter's Supply sells both profiles, so you can compare them there.
There doesn't seem to be any database that shows creased crowns and identifies the block used (I've looked for one with no luck), but pushing the crease out of a few hats will start to give you the feel of what block will help...
The plywood set-up you described, if you also iron the underbrim while the bock and hat are in it, will give you the zero or flat flange we talked about earlier. I mentioned curling the outer edge of the brim to give it more strength, but you can also manipulate the brim break by hand, with...
There are round blocks. I have one, bought on the Bay, from Canada. I was disappointed when it arrived, but reviewed the ad and decided I should have looked at the pictures in more detail, so didn't try to return it.
Ermatinger talks about round blocks for making and reblocking hats for Indians...
It looks pretty good to me. If you want it even flatter, you need to change the upward curve where the crown and brim meet, the brim break. It probably had a factory flange that set a less than 90 degree angle there. What I suggested about ironing the underbrim will help do that, but consider...
Did you iron the top or bottom, and did you use the steam button? I would iron the underbrim, with the hat pressed tight to the edge of the table I was ironing on. Better yet is a half circle cut into a table so the hat needs less spinning around, and a firm surface with a hard edge is better...
I believe you end up with a thicker felt product, much less willing to be hand molded after the original blocking.
Before trying it, you might want to investigate the way hatters learned to sort their fur by flipping it around in the air with bow like tools. It lands sorted into grades, so you...
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