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  1. Patrick Hall

    My VINTAGE ZOOT SUIT – c. 1940

    "We take great pride in making bewildering and outlandish garments that we think are ugly for people who can afford it." Think that would have worked on a billboard?
  2. Patrick Hall

    My VINTAGE ZOOT SUIT – c. 1940

    I wondered if - given what you said previously about the made-to-order firms being themselves embarrassed about making such garish suits, the maker "neglected" to affix their label to it. Your explanation about studios removing the labels seems much more plausible however.
  3. Patrick Hall

    My VINTAGE ZOOT SUIT – c. 1940

    I was thinking about this last night - my comment about the frock touched it off. Wasn't there a similar trend towards frock coats with constructed shoulders and waists so suppressed that men were wearing corsets in the middle of the 19th century?
  4. Patrick Hall

    My VINTAGE ZOOT SUIT – c. 1940

    Fascinating! Thanks for putting these photos out there. The proportions of that coat are incredible - the tiny, tiny lapels, and the waist suppression is DRAMATIC. I've always thought there was something inherently aesthetically pleasing about a long coat - but I think i'd prefer a frock to a...
  5. Patrick Hall

    Show off the sports coats.

    That is a really narrow stance for the bottom four. How does a tailor widen the button stance without making the pockets look uneven?
  7. Patrick Hall

    Wedding Tuxedo Help

    I think I am on safe ground in saying that most weddings in the US are in the evening. 7:00 is the traditional hour. In fact, one of the ways I recommend couples save some money is by having the wedding at an uncommon time, either in the morning or early afternoon. Generally you can reserve...
  8. Patrick Hall

    Wedding Tuxedo Help

    Keep an eye on Brooks Brothers. Their 1818 tux line is decent quality, and there is peak lapel, one button model in it. It's a vented jacket though, which I don't like on a tuxedo. They frequently have big sizing gaps though. J Press also has a one button peak lapel model for sale, but your...
  9. Patrick Hall

    Does vintage clothing attract a rude/violent response?

    I agree with the thrust of this claim. I think that, in general, human beings uncritically project our inner life onto people in the outer world. Those of us who are different, because of our own choices or because of factors beyond our control, often end up bearing the inadequacies and fears...
  10. Patrick Hall

    The general decline in standards today

    I do a number of funerals - comes with being a priest in an aging denomination. People's choice of clothing at these liturgies depends much on the family dynamic. Often there are family members who have been estranged, or scapegoated, or whose identity is bound up with scandalizing their loved...
  11. Patrick Hall

    Jos Bank Suit, suitable for interview or not?

    Bet he was plenty glad to be gone from Merrill a couple years back! My first day out of seminary, I showed up at work in what I presumed to be a perfectly acceptable example of suiting, perhaps one of those JAB numbers though I can't remember anymore, only to have my boss laugh me out of his...
  13. Patrick Hall

    Jos Bank Suit, suitable for interview or not?

    Man, BB clearance is the way to go. keep an eye on bb.com, and you can pick up their half-canvassed 1818 line for a relative steal during the end of season sales. I even do well for being a 36 reg!
  14. Patrick Hall

    Jos Bank Suit, suitable for interview or not?

    The fusing is pretty bad with JAB. I am a daily wearer, and maintain a wardrobe of ten four-season suits, and had thrown away all my JAB suits within three years because of construction failures and noticeable fabric wear. Also, the jackets wear STIFF and the arm-holes are constricting. That...
  15. Patrick Hall

    Jos Bank Suit, suitable for interview or not?

    My first suits were JosABank. That deal, 172.00 is about right for the quality. For that amount of money, you will get a suit with a fused jacket as opposed to half or full canvas construction, probably a blended fabric as opposed to 100% wool. I'd recommend taking it to a really good tailor...
  16. Patrick Hall

    Does vintage clothing attract a rude/violent response?

    This thread has been fascinating to read. A) I think that the emergence of gay culture does fuel men's discomfort with men who dress well. Western men experience sexuality in a far more binary way than women. The grammar of fashion belongs now to women and gay men. Straight men are...
  17. Patrick Hall

    Goodwill buys

    I've wondered this myself. I'm a 36 also and I am always wary of picking up larger sizes. I know tailors can take suit jackets in, but I'd guess at some point it begins to screw up the proportions of the suit. Anyone have a good rule of thumb for how many sizes above my own I should feel...
  19. Patrick Hall

    Black Clothing Is Cooler Than White In The Heat Of Summer?!?

    Fascinating - the study suggests their body temps were lower but the temperature in and outside the garment was higher. That is highly counter-intuitive.
  20. Patrick Hall

    Tropical weather suit

    If it's that hot and you're in a suit, you just expect to sweat. I wear an undershirt and keep my jacket on. I can also testify to the quality of JosABank's seersucker, as I have three in my summer wardrobe. I'm sure the construction is awful - all fused together and gross, but you don't buy...
  21. Patrick Hall

    Summer suits

    If you choose to go with the off-white suit, take care that the overall effect isn't costume-y. Being suited every day in the swamps of Houston means a steady diet of pale summer suits for me - seersuckers, linens, and cotton. But I avoid accessories that make the look too stereotypical - like...
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