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Suit without a tie...
I want also to add, that I have worn "city" suits sans-tie on several occasions and I have to say that it could be made to look decent in some occasions. This was my recipe: - the suit has to fit reasonably well and needs to be definitely on the trimmer side (not ridiculously so, however); - the...- Mathematicus
- Post #31
- Forum: Suits
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Suit without a tie...
Stuffiness here is probably unconsciously related to discomfort and tightness, because no one on earth can say that a properly fitting suit, with tame proportions scaled to the wearer makes a man looking a hundred times more handsome. If you find suits restricting and uncomfortable, you have to...- Mathematicus
- Post #28
- Forum: Suits
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Raincoat fit question
I am probably pickier than you in that, as I usually hate the look of sleeves which are either too long, too short or too wide. But this makes sense when talking about a jacket, namely a garment meant to be worn indoors, over a shirt. For heavy outerwear like raincoats and overcoats one can be...- Mathematicus
- Post #9
- Forum: Outerwear and Workwear
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Raincoat fit question
It may be a bit long on the sleeves, but I wouldn't bother unless it is going to swallow more than half of your hand. For outerwear, longer sleeves are better than shorter ones, due to increased protection against cold and rain. I wish I had your problems, since sleeves are always short on me!- Mathematicus
- Post #2
- Forum: Outerwear and Workwear
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Suit waistcoat fit: to eat or not to eat...
Alterations on waistcoats are usually quite easy: as there is no spare lining in the majority of the cases, one usually adds some strips at the sides. Replacing the back can also be done, but only in more extreme cases. Regarding the fit issues, my only guess is that chest measurement for a...- Mathematicus
- Post #7
- Forum: Suits
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Suit waistcoat fit: to eat or not to eat...
I agree with Guttersnipe. I've worked in a large IT firm form a few time and everybody wore suits and obviously there were some very fashion-conscious people that wore skin-tight trousers with virtually no ease at thighs, knee, ankle paired with the usual extra-short jacket with huge armholes...- Mathematicus
- Post #5
- Forum: Suits
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What are you wearing today??
Yesterday. Steel-blue suit (very very very cheap), white shirt with double cuffs, goldtone cufflinks and tie bar, old tie from the 80s. The first picture is not very good quality; sorry but they were taken indoors, with artificial lights at evening and with a mobile phone camera!- Mathematicus
- Post #23,856
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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Wide lapels or skinny lapels?
Much of the look of a lapel is given by the angle and vertical placement of the gorge. Width is only an aspect and, I would also say, sometimes it is secondary. With that said, I usually prefer an average lapel, 3.75 at its widest. Peak lapels have to be slightly wider, of course. I like...- Mathematicus
- Post #11
- Forum: Suits
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How many suits do you own?
This is a behaviour that really gets on my nerves. It starts from the aim to get everyone comfortable without being judged by what they wear, but like all of this bullshit gets contradicted with itself in the moment it is applied to someone who likes to wear suits. They will advertise "you can...- Mathematicus
- Post #155
- Forum: Suits
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What are you wearing today??
Today: black with faint shadow stripes suit (a semi-MTM made for me in early 2000s, trousers still fit!), white poplin shirt with double cuffs, pale red with dark geometric design tie by RL. Silvertone metal cufflinks, silver tie bar. The pictures were taken half a hour ago, just back home from...- Mathematicus
- Post #23,853
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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W I D E shoulder pads of the late 40s
It is not necessarily true that an extended and padded shoulder will look bad and sloppy. Apart from having the right shape for this features, I think that the key element is the cut of the coat itself. I have to say that, while I'm not a fan of extra-wide shoulders in general, there were some...- Mathematicus
- Post #6
- Forum: Suits
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Show us their suits
I absolutely agree with Patrick. Coat's pockets are made to be used, and indeed they were widely used since not so much time ago - the proof is the small bag sewn inside the right pocket, which was intended to store coins or keys. Being not a fan of sprezzatura (studying up the look to appear...- Mathematicus
- Post #1,158
- Forum: Suits
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Fair Isle Sweaters + Suits?
Definitely you should follow what has already been suggested. I would also add, just for the sake of being picky, that even among "town" suits you can have variation in the level of formality. It depends mostly on the fabric, the cut having less significance if we are talking about "town" cuts...- Mathematicus
- Post #7
- Forum: Suits
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Custom Suit help
The only difference between the three styles of pockets is about formality: patch is less formal than flap, which is less formal than jetted. All the three styles cohexisted in the Golden era, but with appropriate use. No patch pockets in a work suit, for instance, or no jetted pockets in a...- Mathematicus
- Post #11
- Forum: Suits
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Custom Suit help
The lightest cotton suiting does not breathe as well as an open weave wool. This means that, for instance, in a hot windy day a wool suit with open weave (like fresco) is far better than a cotton one. However, when heat and humidity are the only factors to fight and you are moving around a lot...- Mathematicus
- Post #6
- Forum: Suits
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Custom Suit help
I'm sure you'll find a lot of information reading the threads in this sub-forum, but I would start noting two things: - 1930s-1940s styling doesn't necessarily mean belt back or exaggerated leg width. Much of the appeal of that era derives from the balance of proportions and from the capactity...- Mathematicus
- Post #2
- Forum: Suits
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How many suits do you own?
This is what I'd call "antisocial behaviour".- Mathematicus
- Post #150
- Forum: Suits
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Italian Cut Suits on Larger Men
Alz, I believe we just have different views and, especially, different needs. Nothing wrong with that, mind you! First, I think you had a wrong impression about me, as I'm only 26 years old and I am definitely not stuck to the 80's fashion point of view! The brands you mention are well known to...- Mathematicus
- Post #9
- Forum: Suits
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Italian Cut Suits on Larger Men
Which brands? Apart from Eidos (which I didn't know), please name me an Italian brand from which I can buy a two piece suit in size 36 with fitted jacket, medium rise trousers and a hem of at least 21 cm, with an expense of less than 300 euros. I'm not even asking about construction or quality...- Mathematicus
- Post #8
- Forum: Suits
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Italian Cut Suits on Larger Men
I wonder what part of Italy you have lived in. I was born in a small village, then I moved to Florence, then I moved to Rome and then I moved abroad. So I have seen a lot of different Italian work and social environments, from different culture and lifestyle levels. More importantly, I have met...- Mathematicus
- Post #7
- Forum: Suits
