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  1. zebedee

    Chinese leather jackets

    Maden's stuff is good quality. I ordered a few long-sleeve Henley shirts and (as long as you get BIG sizes), they're great.
  2. zebedee

    leather jacket treatment question

    A wipe down with a cloth and mild soap is fine. Then, Obenauf's, Pecard's or Renapur. Don't WD-40 it.
  3. zebedee

    Chinese leather jackets

    In Beijing it's worth looking for the tailors who take 7-10 days to make a suit. I have a colleague who worked in Beijing and had some suits made there - I'll PM ya when I can get details from him. He's busy having guns pointed at him at the moment, but, when Chinese people without any say in...
  4. zebedee

    Chinese leather jackets

    I'd happily give Tony Leather in Shanghai a go. Seems solid. The majority of tailors in Shanghai are relatively average; the best ones I've found (who are not HK-affiliated) make great shoes and very nice suits. There is not much of a vintage 'niche' in China, as people favour new items...
  5. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    I reckon that all my body's seams are both glued and skived.
  6. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    The gut will ruin just about any and all fits and cuts in my case. For those like me who find it hard to maintain a 34 inch waist and have short legs, a tailor is just about the only way to go :) The only thing that ever worked was a keto diet for months on end and little to no alcohol. I...
  7. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    The body shape required to wear high-rise trousers seems to be tall and thin, but mainly thin - I don't think I could wear them as the waist would probably 'bucket' in the front. To me, they make men look pigeon-chested and the torso in general too short. As someone with a longish torso and...
  8. zebedee

    Cordovan leather jackets - what do you really think?

    My Aero Maxwell in tumbled cordovan goes well with most things. Once worn in, it looked nicely un-precious; I still think Aero's brown HH is their best colour when new or broken in and cordovan looks best after a bit of wear.
  9. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    Longest-lasting pair of jeans I've had was from a supermarket. About 20 pounds. Levi's I've had were good for about a year. I bought some Pike Bros. hunting pants which have lasted well. I took them to my tailor- she held them up, turned them inside out, cursed in Chinese, said: 'This is...
  10. zebedee

    What Did You Drink Last Night?

    Kraken spiced black rum. Not all of it, obviously.
  11. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    It depends how much hammering and clamping is being done. Skiving can be done manually or via a machine, I think. The aesthetics of the manufacturer presumably determine whether or not skiving is used. The Japan angle is interesting - there is a fascination with certain aspects of US...
  12. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    Yeah, I've not had any discomfort in mine, either. Lucky us.
  13. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    It seems simple enough - if you don't like skived leather, Aero is your choice. If skiving is your thing, other makers are available. If Ken Calder and co. don't skive leather and have a reason for that decision which they stick by and are open about, it isn't as if it's a concealed error or...
  14. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    I am the shape of a potato sack. I see no problem.
  15. zebedee

    What are the makers that DO NOT 'skiv their leather or use glue'?

    Aero doesn't skive leather- the position is that you're getting less leather for your buck. Skived leather and glue can make for tighter folds and it will usually prevent the minor splitting sometimes visible at fold lines (as the hide is tamped down). Glue isn't necessarily a bad thing and...
  16. zebedee

    Advice for total newbie living in China

    Is there a physical address for Tony? j.
  17. zebedee

    Advice for total newbie living in China

    That must have made the Japanese makers laugh. What a doughnut!
  18. zebedee

    Advice for total newbie living in China

    Locharron tartans or polished cotton linings are frequent. For durability, cotton tends to last longer.

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