In Beijing it's worth looking for the tailors who take 7-10 days to make a suit. I have a colleague who worked in Beijing and had some suits made there - I'll PM ya when I can get details from him. He's busy having guns pointed at him at the moment, but, when Chinese people without any say in...
I'd happily give Tony Leather in Shanghai a go. Seems solid. The majority of tailors in Shanghai are relatively average; the best ones I've found (who are not HK-affiliated) make great shoes and very nice suits. There is not much of a vintage 'niche' in China, as people favour new items...
The gut will ruin just about any and all fits and cuts in my case. For those like me who find it hard to maintain a 34 inch waist and have short legs, a tailor is just about the only way to go :) The only thing that ever worked was a keto diet for months on end and little to no alcohol. I...
The body shape required to wear high-rise trousers seems to be tall and thin, but mainly thin - I don't think I could wear them as the waist would probably 'bucket' in the front. To me, they make men look pigeon-chested and the torso in general too short. As someone with a longish torso and...
My Aero Maxwell in tumbled cordovan goes well with most things. Once worn in, it looked nicely un-precious; I still think Aero's brown HH is their best colour when new or broken in and cordovan looks best after a bit of wear.
Longest-lasting pair of jeans I've had was from a supermarket. About 20 pounds. Levi's I've had were good for about a year. I bought some Pike Bros. hunting pants which have lasted well. I took them to my tailor- she held them up, turned them inside out, cursed in Chinese, said: 'This is...
It depends how much hammering and clamping is being done. Skiving can be done manually or via a machine, I think. The aesthetics of the manufacturer presumably determine whether or not skiving is used.
The Japan angle is interesting - there is a fascination with certain aspects of US...
It seems simple enough - if you don't like skived leather, Aero is your choice. If skiving is your thing, other makers are available.
If Ken Calder and co. don't skive leather and have a reason for that decision which they stick by and are open about, it isn't as if it's a concealed error or...
Aero doesn't skive leather- the position is that you're getting less leather for your buck.
Skived leather and glue can make for tighter folds and it will usually prevent the minor splitting sometimes visible at fold lines (as the hide is tamped down). Glue isn't necessarily a bad thing and...
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