No Ma'am, I only have about a dozen bodies and I'm not at all sure this will sell. Historically rust isn't a big seller for me, although I love it. From an investment aspect, "off the rack" will stay with greys and browns to start with as they are the highest selling colors. Gotta keep the...
Tall westerns are often made custom Michael, domed much more that 52s. I never liked the tapered crown so never persued them but do have a few with 962 on them. No, as far as I know you can't pad out a reg oval to long oval. I've just taken the time to collect them over the years. What is...
The # 52 was most common back in the day but don't be fooled, anything ending in 52 is the same block ( 952, 852, etc.). Don't pass one up if it works for you but I sincerely doubt that they were built long oval. Those carried other numbers I believe
Should be 23 to 23 1/8 for correct fit. There can always be slight overages and still make it work but in an ideal situation it should be no more than 3/8 " bigger than the ID of the sweat
Try calling Graham Thompson of Optoimo Bruno. I sold him 2 a few years ago along with manuals. Maybe you will be better than me with them. I owned them for years and failed to get a single sweatband in without breaking threads. I gave up after months of sitting in front of it. Confounding things
If you use one 1" bigger than you need Doug, you'll end up with a reverse taper. 23 3/8 sweat = at most, 23 3/4. The sweat should take about 1/4-3/8" more OD to sit right
It's been my experience that the markings on the blocks are often wrong, as you are experiencing. Best rule of thumb, use a block 1/4" bigger than you need for the hat. Pay no attention to the sizing on the block itself. As you can see, Beaver brands liked more room in their 7 1/8 , what...
Funny Andy, I didn't form this Facebook page, apparently a client requested it. I just made some changes in the data that should be corrected in the next few days. uggg, something new to keep up with
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