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Gentlemen, show us what you've made!
Thanks, gents :) I've started a pair of houndstooth trousers, then I think I'm going to do another 3 piece in another style.- Nick D
- Post #1,045
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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WTT/SELL: 1930s Biltmore 'The York' - 7 1/8
Use a piece of string and measure that. What are you asking for it?- Nick D
- Post #8
- Forum: Classifieds
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Gentlemen, show us what you've made!
I've finished the suit. This is my fifth three-piece, and first double breasted jacket. Apologies for the poor photos, the camera focuses behind me when I use the timer. The fabric is lighter than I'd prefer (about 12 oz, I think). I cut the 38 jacket, but should have cut the...- Nick D
- Post #1,040
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
The pattern has the short dart, it ends well below the armscye, so I didn't change the shape of the scye. The pattern actually has a high, small armhole for a commercial pattern, even a vintage one. The front from the shoulder to the pitch seems too straight, though. Here's a picture of the... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
I opened up the front of the sleeve from top to bottom, and let out the front sleeve seam from top to elbow. That relieved most of the tension in the armhole, and added the little bit of ease that was missing in the sleeve. The excess pulling is reduced, though not completely eliminated. The... -
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Two tailors, three different answers. Maybe it's two different problems which look similar? It does seem mine was cause by an excess of fabric, not a lack. Either way, it's clear the sleeve I'm working with was drafted poorly. I did get some more ease into the front of the sleeve, which... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Thanks, Quirrel. I did take away at the top of the sleeve, as indicated in the German article, which helped the folds, but it seems like it's a lack of ease at the front notch that is pulling at the chest when I raise my arms. I don't think I have enough fabric to fix that, or at least I'm not... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Regarding drafts, I think I'll use one of these, both from '37. Both are for a 40 chest, so I'll have to change the scale (18 1/3" for 37" chest). Three button. Not sure what the 2" waist disproportion is, I need to compare the two closely. Two button. Once I have a good fitting pattern... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Here are the sleeves basted in. Not great, but I got the worst of the fold out. The changes I made to the cap, unfortunately, now restrict movement despite the high armhole. -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Thanks, HBK. That's approximately what I did, though by the end I don't have enough ease in the front of the sleeve. Eventually I'll end up with a sleeve that is fitted correctly! -
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Well, I narrowed a sleeve. The folds are much improved, the hind arm is still fairly messy but not as bad. Movement is more restricted than it should be, I don't know if it would have been if I hadn't scooped out the sleeve cap but probably not. After all this, I'm going to try an... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
I agree about narrower sleeves. Should I take the seams in evenly at front and back? -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Baron, I've not used this exact pattern before. I have made the single breasted version of this pattern, same company and period, and did not have this issue. I do not know if they drafted the patterns from the same basic block, but I assumed they did, which is why I blundered into this... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Right sleeve has pad and header inserted, left sleeve does not. It's not over the vest I made, and I took it in slightly at the sides, but even so it's bigger in nearly every measurement than my best-fitting jacket (which is why I'll use the 36 next time, unless I find another '40s pattern in a... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Looking back at photos of other jackets I've made, several have this long vertical fold from the cap down the front of the sleeve. Not all, but a few. When I started, I either didn't notice or it didn't bother me (probably the former). Now it's going to be the main focus until I get it right... -
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The Vintage Tailoring Thread
I had to take some extra fabric out of the front of the cap from the top to the front pitch point, but I'm done fooling with it. I've reduced the more egregious folds in the sleeve, improved the hind arm, and made it hang a bit better. It doesn't hang perfectly, there are still some folds in... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
I think this is what was going on in part. After staring at it, and fiddling with it to see where the fabric needed to go, I scooped in the front and back of the sleeve cap, mainly below the pitch marks. It seems like there was too much fabric in the sleeve, especially the underarm, which was... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
It is pretty light, not as light as most of the RTW suits you see but barely as heavy as a lightweight vintage suit. It's harder to find fabric now that I don't live in the UK. Buying online is always a challenge. What I need to do is draft my own pattern, but things like this make me very... -
The Vintage Tailoring Thread
Sleeves! Okay, I am being driven to distraction by a sleeve problem, and I'm hoping someone can help. I am working on EvaDress 915, the double breasted jacket. Having done the single breasted version of this jacket, from the same (original) company and period, I assumed the sleeves would be...
