Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

Bluechel said:

Except for critical infrastructure and banking “software “! (Middleware)

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They still use Cobol and Fortran, right?

Decent looking Schott Perfecto 618 42 for an okay starting bid of £260 if anyone's looking - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27709398...sHpKxw_R8G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Will Zach said:

They still use Cobol and Fortran, right?

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I don't think that cobol and fortran have native TCP stacks. So in some ways they're much safer than a lot of modern code lol

Really nice 40s half belt amazing condition

Seller states pit to pit is 22.5 in

Woolwonders said:

Really nice 40s half belt amazing condition

Seller states pit to pit is 22.5 in

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Beautiful Californian. Too bad I missed it.

photo2u said:

Beautiful Californian. Too bad I missed it.

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This is an Albert Richard, not a Californian

Woolwonders said:

Really nice 40s half belt amazing condition

Seller states pit to pit is 22.5 in

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Dang that went fast! Hopefully someone in here got it.

Very nice straight zip Cal with vintage belt as well, from a member here - $699 or offer
https://www.ebay.com/itm/197284637764?

jeo said:

This is an Albert Richard, not a Californian

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I was wondering how you determine this was an AR? Can you please share?

photo2u said:

I was wondering how you determine this was an AR? Can you please share?

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The cut, the design, the strap, the buckles, the collar…everything really.

I think this is a good deal, just picked up an interesting looking LL Lightning copy by "Leather Monkeys" for £80 all in... unsure if anyone had any experience of these but looks alright.

The same jacket worn by member of The Libertines, Carl Barat so im intrigued to see what it's like in person, looks quite cool.

Not what I would consider a deal, but I know durables are very popular around these parts!



https://ebay.us/m/LT1ff5

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28650849...h6&stype=1&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

really nice brown spiegel horsehide car coat, tagged 42. Conmar zipper, BIN $720

jeo said:

The cut, the design, the strap, the buckles, the collar…everything really.

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I see, I understand you.
I must point out this jacket has a particular FRONT POCKETS construction method that I have only observed in CSC.
This method I have not seen used by AR before. The jacket in question has features in some jacket made by AR such as the full back and the strap adjustments in the sleeves. However, CSC produced brand (sportclad and others) used the construction method at the front pocket that I have never seen used by other companies. This front pocket double row of stitching. It is a very noticeable and desirable feature that most makers do not incorporate to their garments because of the labor intensity. I have repaired several jackets that do not benefit from this design. In fact, I am currently repairing a cape skin 1940s beauty.

Here is the jacket in question





Here is a CSC Californian.





Via Tmitchell59 famous Escape from NY


Very similar jacket to the one in question in brown and upper zipper. Courtesy from our friends at Vintage Jacket Forum.


Iconic Capeskin Californian Via Manuel Cozar
https://www.instagram.com/p/CvZOvFQooBe/?img_index=1



Capeskin Repair at the heavy used areas. I am repairing this for a local collector friend of mine. Will remove some Capeskin from the upper pocket and will very carefully glue and stitch the leather in the inner part of the repair so that only a very small repairs holes will show. This is one of the old school methods used back in the day, when this repair was very common.



Perhaps is a Californian made for AR?

photo2u said:

This method I have not seen used by AR before.

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This double stitch construction technique on the front pockets is very common for Albert Richard jackets.



Here’s another



And another

photo2u said:

I must point out this jacket has a particular FRONT POCKETS construction method that I have only observed in CSC.

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Plenty of other makers besides Albert Richard and California Sportswear also used this double stitch construction technique for the front pockets.

Lewis Holster and Leather Goods




Brooks



Many more as well.

photo2u said:

Perhaps is a Californian made for AR?

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Definitely not a California Sportswear. It’s an Albert Richard. Fried Osterman was a big manufacturer.

jeo said:

This double stitch construction technique on the front pockets is very common for Albert Richard jackets.

View attachment 702974 View attachment 702975

Here’s another

View attachment 702976 View attachment 702977

And another
View attachment 702979 View attachment 702980



Plenty of other makers besides Albert Richard and California Sportswear also used this double stitch construction technique for the front pockets.

Lewis Holster and Leather Goods

View attachment 702981
View attachment 702984

Brooks

View attachment 702987

Many more as well.



Definitely not a California Sportswear. It’s an Albert Richard. Fried Osterman was a big manufacturer.

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I see your point of view. The black jackets you posted were produced by CSC for other companies. The images of the jacket you posted look like CSC because of the construction methods and features such as sleeve and cuff constructions and belt loops, to name a few obvious samples of CSC work. I even question the labels being original to the jacket.
Let me start with the black police jackets. Those were made by CSC. I have the originals with the CSC labels. One easy giveaway on the black one with the Lewis tag, which is original to the jacket, is that it was not made by them. They contracted it from CSC. More evidence is the lining, which is the same lining used by CSC. LOL. It even has Made in Los Angeles.

Regarding the ones with the AR labels, they appear a little suspicious to me.
The black one with the plaid looks like a Californian due to the sleeves, cuffs, collar, and stitching. The lining was repaired, and the label was reattached with a different sewing machine and stitch in different spacing than the rest of the jacket. The zipper and other areas have been repaired.

The black one with solid lining. Is an exact Californian replica down to stitching and the element designs of the CSC collar, sleeves, cuffs, and shoulder spacing and symmetry? The stitching was made on a CSC machine, just like the other black ones. HOWEVER, this model I have seen in the flesh and in an original 1939 catalog. IT IS AN ALBERT RICHARD MADE FOR THEM BY CSC.

Brown Jacket. It is a CSC. This one is the easiest to spot right away. Just look at the stitching and thread. Very few companies utilized such spacing. Californians often used that contrasting thread that made a very distinct feature in the leather/thread penetration. Regarding the label, it appears to be placed in the wrong location, and it appears to be replaced but with a different machine.

In my view, those AR-labeled jackets appear questionable but one. That black one with solid black lining is made by CSC for AR.
The biker jacket with the Original label made in Los Angeles is a CSC-produced jacket.
HOWEVER, THE MOST COMPELLING FACT IS THE DOUBLE STITCHING METHOD IN WHICH IT WAS UTILIZED BY CSC. MANY OTHER LABELS HAD IT AS I STATED BEFORE. BUT THEY WERE ALL MADE BY CSC. AS WE KNOW, CSC WAS A TOP JACKET MAKER FOR SEARS AND OTHER BIG BRANDS. Besides, how many other companies can incorporate such a unique method in jacket manufacturing? Not even a well-recognized modern companies have reproduced the double-pocket stitching like CSC did.

Lastly, I contacted Jauregui, who worked in the industry when CSC was at its height in manufacturing. He is a wealth of information and is by far more knowledgeable than me.

Here are some images of my CSC Californian original. The Lewis-labeled jacket is a copy of this jacket made for law enforcement. This one belonged to an Upland, California, transit policeman. I got it from his relative with a name tag. The name tag then was returned to the family. This particular CSC were exclusively made for the law enforcement market. I was told by a family member of the patrolman, the city of Upland ordered directly from CSC back on the day.

It is all in the manufacturing details. Different labels but the same maker and same production techniques for all the different labels.

This is a Californian made by CSC.




Lining close up.

tmitchell59 said:

The brown one looks definitively like Goat......... the black one looks like steer/horse....... Seems that Goat was used more in the older jackets (30s-40s) than it was later on and it SEEMS like you see it more from the Bay Area makers. It would make sense as a lighter hide in warmer climate. Not that SF is LA but it certainly ain't Chicago or Milwaukee

I always think West Coast when I see a goatskin police jacket, warm weather jackets. Heck most vintage goatskin jackets say California to me.

Pre-war goatskin police jacket; maker unknown.

View attachment 471908 View attachment 471913 View attachment 471917 View attachment 471920

Made in California goatskin

View attachment 471921 View attachment 471922 View attachment 471923

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.Late but since were on the subject. I mentioned to you some years ago, here is an Original Californian to compare to your black one. You be the judge.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/167189883132

Cool Vintage Schott Cafe Racer. I would snag this one for myself but it’ll be way too small for me. Looks to be in great condition!

A few nice Vansons in France for pretty decent prices:
Brown 38 enfield for 350eur :

40 Black model A for 400eur: