Rmccamey
I'll Lock Up
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- Central Texas
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Post New Hats Here!
- Thread starter Rundquist
- Start date
Judgmentalist
One Too Many
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Indy Crusade hat by Advintage. Got this one on eBay - in America, so I didn't have to import one to handle it, which was nice. This was one of the makers I wanted to see.
So, at the moment I have an HJ Indy Poet and this Advintage hat. Apparently the HJ hats are not "real" HJ hats - someone bought them out and is using the HJ name - no relation to the original Indy hats, if I understand the situation correctly.
Advintage is a costume hat shop. Both of my Indy hats are rabbit. For my money the HJ is the nicer of the two. The felt just feels higher quality. Nothing really against the Advintage hat, but in general it just gives me a slightly downgraded vibe. The Advintage is probably my current leading candidate for daily-driver-don't-worry about it to too much hat.
If anybody has an Advintage hat with a different perspective I'd be happy to hear it. It's a nice wearable hat.
The problem with that is the rabbit hats don't seem to handle moderate rain that well. I let my HJ get rained on and it took a little massaging to un-Jed Clampett the brim afterward.
I still want to get a 100% beaver Indy Raiders Turn hat at some point - not sure where. If a Penman pops up I might try that. If I have to make one I'll probably ask Mike Miller to do it.
Advintage Crusade Indy hat in rabbit
So, at the moment I have an HJ Indy Poet and this Advintage hat. Apparently the HJ hats are not "real" HJ hats - someone bought them out and is using the HJ name - no relation to the original Indy hats, if I understand the situation correctly.
Advintage is a costume hat shop. Both of my Indy hats are rabbit. For my money the HJ is the nicer of the two. The felt just feels higher quality. Nothing really against the Advintage hat, but in general it just gives me a slightly downgraded vibe. The Advintage is probably my current leading candidate for daily-driver-don't-worry about it to too much hat.
If anybody has an Advintage hat with a different perspective I'd be happy to hear it. It's a nice wearable hat.
The problem with that is the rabbit hats don't seem to handle moderate rain that well. I let my HJ get rained on and it took a little massaging to un-Jed Clampett the brim afterward.
I still want to get a 100% beaver Indy Raiders Turn hat at some point - not sure where. If a Penman pops up I might try that. If I have to make one I'll probably ask Mike Miller to do it.
Advintage Crusade Indy hat in rabbit
Pellie
Call Me a Cab
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Lol, i first thought you where answering my post, but now i understand
RickP
My Mail is Forwarded Here
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Ive "rescued" several older Ebay or Goodwill "mutt" hats over the years. 40-50 yr old fur felt is quite workable. Many of them had become a bit snugger than intended. One of the first things I learned about upsizing a hat is that older leather sweatbands often do not survive enlarging on the hat. All too often someone stretches an intact hat, and they can easily rip out the stitching on older leather sweats. Another issue is that a hat stretched that way can pull back again after stretching.... Then you have a damaged leather sweat thats still too snug.
In my humble way of thinking, The proper way to resize a lid is to carefully remove the Leather Sweatband and the ribbon hatband so you can do a good reblocking and resizing of the felt. It may take a few trys to get something to the point that it doesnt shrink back. Then you can address the sweatband for a proper fit. I have NOT had a lot of success stretching leather... it always seems to shrink back some. One the crown is reblocked and resized, Ill either dissassemble the ends of he sweatband and sew in a leather spacer to get the right size, or..... chose to replace with a new properly fit replacement sweatband. ( Im rather fond of soft lambskin for older hats). Dont try to fight the hat. Sweatband and ribbons in my world are finishing items... often not easily resizable without looking abused.
Time spent learning how older hats were built, how to block and shape, how to sew in a sweatband, and how to fit a new ribbon, are skills that will make life much more enjoyable. Pride of accomplishment is a thing. Unless youre looking to restore a rare high end hat and keep it all original, a bit of updating will give you a sharper hat that you can wear frequently and point to with pride of accomplishment.
Enjoy the process and best wishes for your efforts... Go for it and have fun!
Thanks a bunch for the advice. I'm definitely in my beginning phase of learning this stuff. My experiment here was to see if going one size from regular oval to long oval would really require stretching or if it's just more a matter of reshaping the oval. At least in this case, it seemed successful without really stretching. The only issue seemed to be warping at the brim break, which I'm still working on fixing.
I've only re-stitched one sweatband so far, and only because the stitching accidentally came out when I was changing the ribbon. That's probably going to be the next skill I'll try to develop.
RickP
My Mail is Forwarded Here
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My first couple of sweatbands involved long hours, many finger sticks and blood lol. These days I really enjoy sweatband work... to me is therapeutic. Pour a good adult beverage, fire up a good cigar or pipe, and relax for a couple hours. Good larger John James millinery needles are well worth the cost. Ive found for me, the best accessory for sewing sweatbands is a good pair of compact needle nose pliers.... way less finger stabbing!
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Pellie
Call Me a Cab
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Thanks Steve. Yes a real bargain. For 5 i say: thank you very much ;-)
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- Maryland
Thank you!
Rmccamey
I'll Lock Up
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- 6,471
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- Central Texas
Yes. I missed inserting my quote!
Lol, i first thought you where answering my post, but now i understand
Looks great! Post up some headshots when you get her shaped to your liking.
Thank you! I sure will..this shapes so much easier than my 50 60s 3X!
Daniele Tanto
I'll Lock Up
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- 4,647
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- Verona - Italia
Two black Italian hats, both made before the Second World War.
The first is a special edition by Cappellificio Cervo "Sacs - Excelsa", crafted for a well-known shop in Bologna that existed at the time.
It clearly requires some restoration work. Note the fineness of the orange thread used for the ribbon stitching.
The felt features a special finish "Chevrette" that means "little goat". The label states a size of 59 cm, though I suspect it may have shrunk slightly.
The second is a splendid example of "urban" millinery; the inner lining bears the brand "Excelsior - Carlo Omodeo – Genova"
This hat is a quintessential piece of 1930s Italian hat-making—the detailing is highly precise, and the shape is sharp and elegant.
I have occasionally come across hats branded "Excelsior," but they all bore a maker's mark; this one, however, appears to be the work of an individual hatter—a conclusion supported by the fact that the internal label is entirely handwritten
The brim is stitched on top, and the felt is very pliable
It is a size 58 cm (equivalent to a US 7 1/4).
Please feel free to message me if you have any questions.
To reiterate, these are not my size, and I would love for them to go to other hat enthusiasts who will appreciate them.
The first is a special edition by Cappellificio Cervo "Sacs - Excelsa", crafted for a well-known shop in Bologna that existed at the time.
It clearly requires some restoration work. Note the fineness of the orange thread used for the ribbon stitching.
The felt features a special finish "Chevrette" that means "little goat". The label states a size of 59 cm, though I suspect it may have shrunk slightly.
The second is a splendid example of "urban" millinery; the inner lining bears the brand "Excelsior - Carlo Omodeo – Genova"
This hat is a quintessential piece of 1930s Italian hat-making—the detailing is highly precise, and the shape is sharp and elegant.
I have occasionally come across hats branded "Excelsior," but they all bore a maker's mark; this one, however, appears to be the work of an individual hatter—a conclusion supported by the fact that the internal label is entirely handwritten
The brim is stitched on top, and the felt is very pliable
It is a size 58 cm (equivalent to a US 7 1/4).
Please feel free to message me if you have any questions.
To reiterate, these are not my size, and I would love for them to go to other hat enthusiasts who will appreciate them.
Nice find, Josh. Really like the colour. The manufacturer is Fernandez y Roche of course, which we don't see that often here. Your assessment of their hat is consistent with what I've seen of them (which is not much to be fair): certainly not bad, but not great either.
Cool finds, Daniele. Really like the shape of that Excelsior.
