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ClementJames

New in Town
Messages
13
Location
Charlotte, NC
I have been waiting for this moment for some time.... Ladies and Gentlemen, may I present - my first custom hat!

A Montecristi from our very own Wolfbrae, Mr. Robert Gault.

Thank you Robert, for working with me on this lovely hat.

Robert helped me dial in the size so that it fits perfectly. Most of my hats either fit a little snugly or a little loosely, because I am pretty much right in between a 7 3/8 and 7 1/2. I am also at the top end of the range for "normal oval"; just under the point where it tips into the "long oval" bracket. Mr. Gault is the hatter that helped me figure this out.

Wolfbrae Panama - you can see the green base in the ribbon best in this photo.
View attachment 790238
View attachment 790239
This photo really doesn't do justice to the lovely vintage ribbon Robert helped me select. I love the texture, and there is more green than is visible here.
View attachment 790240
wolfbrae-panama-7-jpg.790242


View attachment 790243 View attachment 790244 View attachment 790245

Robert makes a great hat!
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
I got two hats in today, and I was all set to post the other one—which is much nicer and arrived first—when this one showed up and promptly took over a little corner of my brain.

This poor homburg doesn’t have much to recommend it, if I’m being honest. I loved the color, it fits, and it was very inexpensive. Other than that, it’s kind of a hot mess. For better or worse, though, I still love it. I’m going to start with the most flattering photo and go downhill from there.

Interestingly, the sweatband has two different personalizations. Since the hat dates to the 1990s, that seems a little unusual. Perhaps it passed from father to son—but they have different last initials. Okay, maybe father and stepson. The hat is now 30 years old, so the timing just barely works, I suppose. Anyway, now I’m just making stuff up.

The hat was manufactured in April 1996 and probably retailed for around $129. The sweatband is in good condition, though not especially high quality, and the felt itself is nice enough. Unfortunately, it has several small but deep moth bites, along with some staining on the otherwise decent—and beautifully colored—felt.

To top it all off, the first thing I did was pull a ratty old feather from behind the bow, thereby smearing even more mess across a hat that already needed cleaning. Wasn't expecting that, but learn something new every day, right?

It’s a wreck. love it.

modern Biltmore Imperial Homburg
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (15).JPG

this photo shows the feather mess
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (1).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (6).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (8).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (9).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (10).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (11).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (12).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (3).JPG
Biltmore Imperial Homburg 09-01-2026 (5).JPG
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
I got two hats in today, and I was all set to post the other one—which is much nicer and arrived first—when this one showed up and promptly took over a little corner of my brain.

This poor homburg doesn’t have much to recommend it, if I’m being honest. I loved the color, it fits, and it was very inexpensive. Other than that, it’s kind of a hot mess. For better or worse, though, I still love it. I’m going to start with the most flattering photo and go downhill from there.

Interestingly, the sweatband has two different personalizations. Since the hat dates to the 1990s, that seems a little unusual. Perhaps it passed from father to son—but they have different last initials. Okay, maybe father and stepson. The hat is now 30 years old, so the timing just barely works, I suppose. Anyway, now I’m just making stuff up.

The hat was manufactured in April 1996 and probably retailed for around $129. The sweatband is in good condition, though not especially high quality, and the felt itself is nice enough. Unfortunately, it has several small but deep moth bites, along with some staining on the otherwise decent—and beautifully colored—felt.

To top it all off, the first thing I did was pull a ratty old feather from behind the bow, thereby smearing even more mess across a hat that already needed cleaning. Wasn't expecting that, but learn something new every day, right?

It’s a wreck. love it.

modern Biltmore Imperial Homburg
View attachment 807206
this photo shows the feather mess
View attachment 807207 View attachment 807208 View attachment 807209 View attachment 807210 View attachment 807211 View attachment 807212 View attachment 807213 View attachment 807214 View attachment 807215
@HatsBySam - Hey Sam, can you render this hat wearable without having to scrap the brim ribbon?
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
Thanks man! This one’s a stunner. No I have not, is he a member of this forum?
No idea, but I doubt it. The first thing I do when I get a good personalization is try to find the person who bought the hat new if I can.

I thought I had an idea of who it might have been but the person I found would have died before this hat was made, I think. Is there anything under the sweatband?
 

jeffgarf

One Too Many
Messages
1,726
Location
Jerusalem, Israel
No idea, but I doubt it. The first thing I do when I get a good personalization is try to find the person who bought the hat new if I can.

I thought I had an idea of who it might have been but the person I found would have died before this hat was made, I think. Is there anything under the sweatband?
I got a hat I posted about here awhile back that mentioned made for: Mr. So and so, from a well-known French designer. I looked up Mr. So and so and actually found out about both him and the hat itself. Always worthwhile, if you can.
 

BizzAnt

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Location
Denver
No idea, but I doubt it. The first thing I do when I get a good personalization is try to find the person who bought the hat new if I can.

I thought I had an idea of who it might have been but the person I found would have died before this hat was made, I think. Is there anything under the sweatband?
That’s a good idea, I never even thought of that. I get a little worried about popping stitches when pulling old sweats (happened to me once on an old Wormser), so probably not going to try it on this one.
 

Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
That’s a good idea, I never even thought of that. I get a little worried about popping stitches when pulling old sweats (happened to me once on an old Wormser), so probably not going to try it on this one.
I have also had some bad experiences with fragile sweatbands. Definitely something to be concerned about, in my humble opinion.
 

HatsBySam

One of the Regulars
Messages
236
@HatsBySam - Hey Sam, can you render this hat wearable without having to scrap the brim ribbon?
I always try to save the original bow and reuse them when possible, but if the sweatband is well attached, I’d start with a thorough brushing and then give it a good steam to freshen up the stiffener in the felt, a lot of surface dirt will brush right off. It may not require anything then a good brushing. Cool hat!
 
Messages
18,408
Location
Maryland
very cool - I love that the resizer ribbon detail goes all the way around the sweatband. I may see if I can get someone to make me one like that. :)
Josh, I am not sure this one is functional but I have many examples of ones that are. They are more common on Stiff Felts. Here is a Soft Felt with a functioning one. I haven't actually readjusted one but this one appears to have been (there is slight bunching of the wide + thin Sweatband).

Nagy Wien, possibly late 1920s.

5553911276_c8c32d06fd_b.jpg


5553927282_7d4e4ba55b_b.jpg


5553932802_7da367a149_b.jpg


5553932920_ec97b76614_b.jpg


5553933012_47c73588df_b.jpg
 
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Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
Josh, I am not sure this one is functional but I have many examples of ones that are. They are more common on Stiff Felts. Here is a Soft Felt with a functioning one. I haven't actually readjusted one but this one appears to have been (there is slight bunching of the wide + thin Sweatband).

Nagy Wien, possibly late 1920s.

5553911276_c8c32d06fd_b.jpg


5553927282_7d4e4ba55b_b.jpg


5553932802_7da367a149_b.jpg


5553932920_ec97b76614_b.jpg


5553933012_47c73588df_b.jpg
Thank you for sharing. This hat is very interesting. The logo in the crown is striking - very modern - almost art deco, it seems to me
 

jeffgarf

One Too Many
Messages
1,726
Location
Jerusalem, Israel
New Borsalino hat, purchased from Ukraine, originally sold in Italy. With a 5cm double-stitched over welt brim and 9cm at the crown crease, it is a 66-75 era in a color I don't believe had been listed before, a Magnesio with an asfalto hatband. I would have thought perhaps a misto felt, but it is certainly a longer hair velour, in Qualitá Extra Superiore.

PXL_20260903_100907587.jpg PXL_20260903_100939827.jpg PXL_20260903_100831618.jpg PXL_20260903_100813054.jpg PXL_20260903_100744239.MP.jpg PXL_20260903_102548895.MP.jpg
 
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Judgmentalist

One Too Many
Messages
1,111
This is my first hat of this brand. I like the colors of both the felt and the ribbon, and especially the way they work together. I also like the chunky ribbon and bow. I definitely have a preference in that regard.

Interestingly, it fits like a 7 3/8 with what appears to be the original sweatband, but the underside of the liner is marked “7 1/4 HARV.” I have no idea what “HARV” means. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

Marathon was, I believe, J. C. Penney’s first major house brand, introduced in 1914, with the hats manufactured under contract by other companies. Many were reportedly made by Lee, but I don’t see any way to confirm who made this particular hat.

Penney's Marathon Homburg

Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (2).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (3).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (4).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (5).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (7).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (8).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (9).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (10).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (12).JPG
Penny's Marathon Homburg 09-01-2026 (15).JPG
 

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