Double Helix Works?

[codex]

Looking for a second opinion. I'm having a jacket made and asked for a #8 zipper. Double helix just sent me these pictures for confirmation or go to a #5, as the #8 zipper is quite large, possibly creating more abrasion over time.

My immediate thought is to keep it as is, since I love the look of the puller. But I'm not experienced enough to know how much of an effect this might have. Is it gonna tear it up fast and look ugly?

 

[ABCD]

What is their #5 alternative, the Hookless repro? If so, my vote would go to the Waldes #8. I don't think wear on the welts is something to worry about.

 

[codex]

What is their #5 alternative, the Hookless repro? If so, my vote would go to the Waldes #8. I don't think wear on the welts is something to worry about.

Yes, it would be the hookless repro. I'm not too keen on it and I was thinking too, that it's just the welts and probably not that bad. Thanks for the reply, will go for the #8.

 

[ojaw]

Yes, it would be the hookless repro. I'm not too keen on it and I was thinking too, that it's just the welts and probably not that bad. Thanks for the reply, will go for the #8.

I like the confidence and looks of the chunkier zippers, don’t get why you’d put a #5 on a leather jacket such as these, besides I think the Waldes repros are especially handsome.

 

[Jaymig926]

Picked up the Rider Tres in burgundy and the a-1 in olive both just beautiful jackets !
Lots of compliments when I wore them
For both jackets the color changes so much in different environments and lighting

 

[ojaw]

View attachment 774966 View attachment 774967 Picked up the Rider Tres in burgundy and the a-1 in olive both just beautiful jackets !
Lots of compliments when I wore them
For both jackets the color changes so much in different environments and lighting
View attachment 774962 View attachment 774963 View attachment 774964 View attachment 774965

Very nice, any changes from stock?

 

[Jaymig926]

Very nice, any changes from stock?

Thank you
Yes I had Matsuda shorten the sleeves and the length a bit

 

[ojaw]

Very nice, any changes from stock?

Cool, I had Boxer a few years ago.
If I did it again I would shorten the body as well, but lengthen the sleeves.

 

[JonS1967]

View attachment 774966 View attachment 774967 Picked up the Rider Tres in burgundy and the a-1 in olive both just beautiful jackets !
Lots of compliments when I wore them
For both jackets the color changes so much in different environments and lighting
View attachment 774962 View attachment 774963 View attachment 774964 View attachment 774965

Congratulations! How do they fit?

 

[Jaymig926]

Congratulations! How do they fit?

Perfect fit the size 44 is great just had to adjust the sleeves and length

 

[Jaymig926]

Waiting in a black rider Unus should be here in a couple of weeks

 

[JonS1967]

Perfect fit the size 44 is great just had to adjust the sleeves and length

I've got a Hugging the Curve on the way. Can't wait

 

[codex]

Received my made to measure 1930s Double Helix jacket in seal brown today.

Specifics:
- Detachable mouton collar in a beige color
- Leather lined cuffs
- Wider half belt
- A yoke was added
- An action back was added
- #8 non hookless zipper
- Brass (gold) colored hardware
- Black cotton liner
- Made to my given measurements

Pics:

My thoughts:
In one sentence; I'm happy with the outcome, when the mouton collar is on.
Longer;
I've always wanted a brown half-belt jacket, and the color of the seal brown leather that Double Helix uses has attracted me for quite a while. Ever since I first laid my eyes on it to be honest! A rich, aniline red brown color with a lot of depth.
I contacted Double Helix for an order in late december. Matsuda, the man you deal with, is great to talk to. Efficient, fast responses. I was quick to place my order with them after just a few days of talking. Time flew by and they sent me QC photos in late february, where I spotted that, due to a misunderstanding, they didn't include a back yoke. I let them know, and without hesitation they told me that they would completely remake the back of the jacket, so that it would be exactly as I wanted it. Commendable, I give them 10/10 for their customer service.
The remake took them a month, shipping took a week, plus some easter delay, and then I recieved it today, april 9. Man, it looks amazing, as the pictures show. Exactly as I wanted it, and the fit is superb! I wanted a layering jacket, this jacket has 5 inches of ease in the chest. In the pictures I am wearing a thick wool sweater, Robust by SNS Herning to be exact, and it doesn't feel restrictive. Almost a perfect fit in my opinion. The sleeves could be 0.5 cm longer and the hem could be brought in by 1 cm (across). This is my first time experiencing an action back, and the difference in mobility is extremely noticeable. Raising my arms is no problem, and neither is putting my hands in the hand warmer pockets.

The leather is amazing. Grainy, smells great and has a lot of depth in the color. In the light the red undertones come out, which I love, but otherwise it's a pretty dark looking seal brown. I'm happy with all the materials used tbh. The cotton liner is slick, going through the sleeves in a wool sweater is no problem, it doesn't grab me anywhere. The mouton collar looks and feels very nice.

The thing I'm displeased about, although it's kinda on me, is the placement of the snaps that fasten the mouton collar. With the collar off, I'd say the jacket is unwearable. 3 of the snaps are not hidden by the collar.

 

[JonS1967]

Received my made to measure 1930s Double Helix jacket in seal brown today.

Specifics:
- Detachable mouton collar in a beige color
- Leather lined cuffs
- Wider half belt
- A yoke was added
- An action back was added
- #8 non hookless zipper
- Brass (gold) colored hardware
- Black cotton liner
- Made to my given measurements

Pics:

View attachment 780498
View attachment 780499
View attachment 780481 View attachment 780482 View attachment 780483 View attachment 780484 View attachment 780485 View attachment 780486 View attachment 780494
View attachment 780500

My thoughts:
In one sentence; I'm happy with the outcome, when the mouton collar is on.
Longer;
I've always wanted a brown half-belt jacket, and the color of the seal brown leather that Double Helix uses has attracted me for quite a while. Ever since I first laid my eyes on it to be honest! A rich, aniline red brown color with a lot of depth.
I contacted Double Helix for an order in late december. Matsuda, the man you deal with, is great to talk to. Efficient, fast responses. I was quick to place my order with them after just a few days of talking. Time flew by and they sent me QC photos in late february, where I spotted that, due to a misunderstanding, they didn't include a back yoke. I let them know, and without hesitation they told me that they would completely remake the back of the jacket, so that it would be exactly as I wanted it. Commendable, I give them 10/10 for their customer service.
The remake took them a month, shipping took a week, plus some easter delay, and then I recieved it today, april 9. Man, it looks amazing, as the pictures show. Exactly as I wanted it, and the fit is superb! I wanted a layering jacket, this jacket has 5 inches of ease in the chest. In the pictures I am wearing a thick wool sweater, Robust by SNS Herning to be exact, and it doesn't feel restrictive. Almost a perfect fit in my opinion. The sleeves could be 0.5 cm longer and the hem could be brought in by 1 cm (across). This is my first time experiencing an action back, and the difference in mobility is extremely noticeable. Raising my arms is no problem, and neither is putting my hands in the hand warmer pockets.

The leather is amazing. Grainy, smells great and has a lot of depth in the color. In the light the red undertones come out, which I love, but otherwise it's a pretty dark looking seal brown. I'm happy with all the materials used tbh. The cotton liner is slick, going through the sleeves in a wool sweater is no problem, it doesn't grab me anywhere. The mouton collar looks and feels very nice.

The thing I'm displeased about, although it's kinda on me, is the placement of the snaps that fasten the mouton collar. With the collar off, I'd say the jacket is unwearable. 3 of the snaps are not hidden by the collar.

Beautiful jacket, congratulations!! It looks great on you. Sorry to hear about the issue with the snaps.

 

[codex]

Beautiful jacket, congratulations!! It looks great on you. Sorry to hear about the issue with the snaps.

Yes it is, and thank you. I'm personally not too bummed about the snaps as I didn't really intend to wear the jacket with the fur collar off. But it does reduce its hypothetical resale value. But that's just how my mind works, I'm never selling this jacket. I love how it feels!

Some more fit pics:

 

[JonS1967]

Yes it is, and thank you. I'm personally not too bummed about the snaps as I didn't really intend to wear the jacket with the fur collar off. But it does reduce its hypothetical resale value. But that's just how my mind works, I'm never selling this jacket. I love how it feels!

Some more fit pics:
View attachment 780504 View attachment 780505 View attachment 780506 View attachment 780507 View attachment 780508

Looks phenomenal. I really like the motion on this style jacket so keeping it on seems like a good move to me. I think Thedi has a similar style jacket and I don’t believe their collar is removable.

The leather is gorgeous! Is it stiff? I’ve got a hugging the curve in seal brown on the way in a few weeks so I’m curious about the stiffness.

 

[Zoro]

That looks fantastic. I do kinda want to see it without the mouton collar, although in my mind a jacket intended for layering would basically never be worn without it.

 

[Jaymig926]

Like wise maybe if you feel it is too distracting having just the open snaps you can add a cap to the snaps (like from good art) and have it look more intentional?
Let’s see a pic

 

[codex]

Looks phenomenal. I really like the motion on this style jacket so keeping it on seems like a good move to me. I think Thedi has a similar style jacket and I don’t believe their collar is removable.

The leather is gorgeous! Is it stiff? I’ve got a hugging the curve in seal brown on the way in a few weeks so I’m curious about the stiffness.

Yeah, the Thedi fur collar half belt inspired me to get this style. I originally planned to order from him, but Double Helix just felt more accessible to me.

The leather is not stiff. I would say the temper is medium-soft. Very supple, it feels nice in my hands. Probably similar or softer than your Innovator if I had to guess, given that it's fully aniline.

 

[codex]

Like wise maybe if you feel it is too distracting having just the open snaps you can add a cap to the snaps (like from good art) and have it look more intentional?
Let’s see a pic

A snap cap is a good idea, but not applicable for the front snaps. I'll show a picture of how it looks tomorrow.