Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

Absolutely! And now the jacket would be something other than a pea if the flaw were corrected. Sometime in the next century somebody that looks a lot like you will be honored to own a 100 year old wool coat and will assume we all must've been cavemen for not having figured out and fixed that cuff long ago

Actually, if I were ambitious enough, I could fix the problem myself by taking a peacoat and some cuffs to a seamstress. Properly installed, it wouldn't even be noticeable. But I have so many other coats and jackets with the internal elastic cuffs, that it isn't worth my time nor money to deal with it.

 

[One Drop]

Wow, thanks for that very well thought out guide for overcoming the Navy sleeve hole “flaw”.
One could never argue with your excellent techniques to fix the “open sleeve flaw” we all struggle with. I’ll be re-thinking my own methodology to the “flaw”and try it on various other open hole sleeves in the future. Thank you.

I still struggle with the left over right boot-lacing technique since boot camp and have yet to find a thorough guide to simplify that conundrum. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Concerning the Navy peacoat sleeve “flaw”…i have no doubt the US Navy, being the Navy, solved that “flaw” long, long ago with an internal elastic material “sleeve hole reducer” but insightfully realized a large portion of sailors present and future would be confused in realizing they would have to force their hands through the sleeve reducer thus rendering the garment un-serviceable.
But what do i know, i’m just a old crayon eater that loves my Navy Peacoats “flaw” and all. Even though they came from the Coast Guard who…nvm.
B

I appreciate your attempt at humour, your sarcasm a little less, but perhaps you can save that for the person that brought up the subject and called it a flaw in the first place.

I’m done with this place, remarks like this just make it a ****ty place rather than a fun one. It’s not that I don’t have a sense of humour, it’s just that your comment adds nothing to the discussion, doesn’t help anyone, and isn’t very funny - sarcasm never is except to the person wielding it. I don’t know what your intent was in posting the above other than to make yourself feel bigger by belittling someone else.

You could have chosen to actually share your experience or knowledge,, I’m sure a lot of people here, myself included, would have been better served by it.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I appreciate your attempt at humour, your sarcasm a little less, but perhaps you can save that for the person that brought up the subject and called it a flaw in the first place.

I’m done with this place, remarks like this just make it a ****ty place rather than a fun one. It’s not that I don’t have a sense of humour, it’s just that your comment adds nothing to the discussion, doesn’t help anyone, and isn’t very funny - sarcasm never is except to the person wielding it. I don’t know what your intent was in posting the above other than to make yourself feel bigger by belittling someone else.

You could have chosen to actually share your experience or knowledge,, I’m sure a lot of people here, myself included, would have been better served by it.

Try not to be a knob.

You are right gentlemen and i stand corrected.
My apologies to you and the Lounge for my misgivings.
B

 

[One Drop]

You are right gentlemen and i stand corrected.
My apologies to you and the Lounge for my misgivings.
B

All good here, I do appreciate the apology.

 

[Trouser Bark]

Did the Filson Pea Coat use the same Mackinaw wool as their more common coats? The Melton and Kersey wools used in traditional Pea Coats is far denser and smoother than any Filson wool I've handled.

It's definitely not the same wool as their Mackinaw. Truth be told I don't know much about fabrics aside from discerning one from another and hadn't even known the term Kersey wool until your comment. My best description is that the wool has an extremely soft hand and seems like it might be delicate material although in practice it hasn't shown any appreciable wear. It doesn't seem dense though; the opposite is more likely.

 

[Jon Crow]

It's definitely not the same wool as their Mackinaw. Truth be told I don't know much about fabrics aside from discerning one from another and hadn't even known the term Kersey wool until your comment. My best description is that the wool has an extremely soft hand and seems like it might be delicate material although in practice it hasn't shown any appreciable wear. It doesn't seem dense though; the opposite is more likely.

Kersey wool, the 19th century US army used kersey a lot, especially those cavalry sky blue pants

 

[stweet]

Thank You to everyone for this informative treasure-trove of a thread. I've read its entirety

Button alterations and peaking shoulder seams:

1.) Has anyone moved only 1-2 button rows for fitment (tight chest), and does the resulting coat look ridiculous?

2.) Has anyone had the shoulder seam tailored, presumably removing excess material, so it lies flatter against the shoulder line?

I had a last-second NYC trip this last week and, being an SF guy w/ no real winter clothes, ordered a WWII 8-button Navy Peacoat to my temporary lodging. Trusting in Peacoat's guide, and knowledge of my measurements was nerve-wracking, but I love the coat so much that I'm taking it home with me. Without layering, it was fine in 30F weather; during this last week's storm, any colder and I just stayed inside lol

Anyway, the chest is a bit too tight, but I like the body and waist fitment. I guess the other option would be to move in the button-rows in decreasing amounts, top to bottom, until the bottom row, which will stay unchanged. I'm a bit worried the diagonal button rows will look ridiculous.

Also, see pics about the shoulder-seam peaking; has anyone successfully tailored this out? Excuse ****py photos, all taken quickly, and some by a smirking girlfriend.

Many Thanks.

 

[Peacoat]

The buttons can be moved about an inch without it looking altered. I would move all of them to maintain the symmetry of the coat.

Don't know if a tailor could do anything about the peaking at the shoulders, but I suspect he could. The Kersey shell is thick and difficult to work with and some may be reluctant to attempt alterations, but I would definitely take to a couple and see what they say.

Congratulations on a good coat. Wear a sweater under your coat, and you will be good below 30°.

Do you have any pictures of the "smirking girlfriend?" I would think that would be much more interesting than pictures of the coat. And why was she smirking?

 

[stweet]

lol, she’s far too pretty to be seen with me. The attached pic, however, is an accurate representation of me.

Thanks for the feedback, Mssr Peacoat. Yeah, I figured a triangular row of buttons, or the top 2 being narrow than the bottom, might look weird. I guess I’ll live with the waist and hips expanding with the chest.

I’m wearing my coat very fitted, like long sleeve shirt only, as that’s appropriate for SF weather.

I’m also thinking about shrinking the bicep area (not cuff, so a gradual taper)… there’s excess material around the bicep vs shoulders/triceps. I completely understand some objecting to the modifications; to me, it’s continuing my specific coat’s story, albeit less admirable than its previous service.


I like these darned things so much I’m considering grabbing a post-war 6 button, maybe *slightly* looser. Not for layering, but for the more traditional fit that I think suits the 6 button. Peacoat, would you recommend sizing up (concerned about the shoulders) or does the extra .25” of chest/body width make a subtle-yet-noticeable difference?

 

[Peacoat]

I haven't heard of anyone who has had a problem with tight shoulders on these coats. Normally, if the p2p fits, then the shoulders do as well. But that doesn't mean you won't be the first one.

 

[stweet]

I haven't heard of anyone who has had a problem with tight shoulders on these coats. Normally, if the p2p fits, then the shoulders do as well. But that doesn't mean you won't be the first one.

I’m medium-framed, but fortunately quite fit, have a somewhat larger chest for my size.

I’ll stay with the same size for the post-wwii coats, as I like the fit of the current one so much; just move the buttons.

Thanks everyone, will update on tailoring and also getting the new 6 button.

 

[Peacoat]

I’m medium-framed, but fortunately quite fit, have a somewhat larger chest for my size.

I’ll stay with the same size for the post-wwii coats, as I like the fit of the current one so much; just move the buttons.

Thanks everyone, will update on tailoring and also getting the new 6 button.

Yes, you should stay with he same size. The difference is subtle and barely noticeable.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Think about ten years from now. As you get older, you will put on a few pounds. What today fits large, even with a sweater, may be a perfect fit in a few years.

To Peacoat and all other Peacoat mavens. I have a question for everyone. Having been involved with peacoats for the past 10 years or so , I think I have seen only 1 or 2 real US Navy issued peacoats being worn on the outside. Being retired , I'm not out all that much. I do come across the store bought coats. Is it very rare if you come across one on your travels??

 

[spoonbelly1950]

lol, she’s far too pretty to be seen with me. The attached pic, however, is an accurate representation of me.

Thanks for the feedback, Mssr Peacoat. Yeah, I figured a triangular row of buttons, or the top 2 being narrow than the bottom, might look weird. I guess I’ll live with the waist and hips expanding with the chest.

I’m wearing my coat very fitted, like long sleeve shirt only, as that’s appropriate for SF weather.

I’m also thinking about shrinking the bicep area (not cuff, so a gradual taper)… there’s excess material around the bicep vs shoulders/triceps. I completely understand some objecting to the modifications; to me, it’s continuing my specific coat’s story, albeit less admirable than its previous service.


I like these darned things so much I’m considering grabbing a post-war 6 button, maybe *slightly* looser. Not for layering, but for the more traditional fit that I think suits the 6 button. Peacoat, would you recommend sizing up (concerned about the shoulders) or does the extra .25” of chest/body width make a subtle-yet-noticeable difference?

" Be very careful. This peacoat activity can be very addicting ".

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

To Peacoat and all other Peacoat mavens. I have a question for everyone. Having been involved with peacoats for the past 10 years or so , I think I have seen only 1 or 2 real US Navy issued peacoats being worn on the outside. Being retired , I'm not out all that much. I do come across the store bought coats. Is it very rare if you come across one on your travels??

And therein lies the enjoyment of wearing peacoats, M-65s, leather cross-zips and fedoras, etc.
Not seeing 10 just like em walking around WalMart.
Same goes for about any item that dares to be different then current fashion.
I see plenty of all the above often enough in movies and tv.
Glad i don’t run into “twins” in everyday affairs. Kinda takes the shine off of being my own self.
B

 

[stweet]

To Peacoat and all other Peacoat mavens. I have a question for everyone. Having been involved with peacoats for the past 10 years or so , I think I have seen only 1 or 2 real US Navy issued peacoats being worn on the outside. Being retired , I'm not out all that much. I do come across the store bought coats. Is it very rare if you come across one on your travels??

This last 2 weeks in Manhattan, spotted a few (alongside a few fair J. Crew and Billy Reids ) I actually had a gent stop me, had a chat; he was wearing a 6 button Vietnam peacoat. Noticed a few people giving me the look up/down, and I did the same.

I'm no expert, but the cut and particularly the lapel-collar layout on the 8 buttons stood out to me.

 

[stweet]

" Be very careful. This peacoat activity can be very addicting ".

Indeed. I have a (likely 38) that I need passing on, and am looking for another coat for me, trying to convince the better half and an East coast buddy they need one lol

 

[stweet]

Indeed that would happen. I had an absolute stunner that I sold (dumb) and let the sleeves out. Can’t really tell from the pic but it was there.
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I completely rebuilt this coat! Exterior was absolutely mint. It had seam issues so I had a tailor re-sew every single seam and lengthen the sleeves. Then I sold it. Like a dumb ***.

This 10 button just landed! NICEST wool yet! Insanely heavy. A full half pound heavier than my others, not a single loose stitch, moth track or bite. As minty as they come. Almost as if it were never worn. I’m having the sleeves altered and let out by 1”. They are shorter by exactly that much compared to my other. I’ll get better pics when it comes back. There’s some real differences between the two WWII peas I have. It just amazes me that one like this even exists, considering how utterly destroyed civilian wool halfbelts from the same era tend to be.
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View attachment 480370
I k ow these pics are just horrible but I’m too geeked to care and there hasn’t been any good light in Chicago for what feels like a year.

Hello Ton (or anyone else), I've seen a few references to smaller-collared coats. Was this a manufacturing variance, or was it a conscious change? I'd like finding one if possible.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Indeed. I have a (likely 38) that I need passing on, and am looking for another coat for me, trying to convince the better half and an East coast buddy they need one lol

I have not been able to get anyone to bite the peacoat ****** whether relative or friend. This has been going on for 10-15 years.

 

[Peacoat]

Hello Ton (or anyone else), I've seen a few references to smaller-collared coats. Was this a manufacturing variance, or was it a conscious change? I'd like finding one if possible.

I guess the " . . . anyone else is me," as I wrote the book on US Navy Peacoats.

Before I can answer your question, I need to understand the question. Can you tell me exactly what the "references" said about the "smaller-collared coats."

I haven't heard of this. I know on the WW II coats the collars and the lapels were a bit smaller because of the design of the coat. Otherwise, all WW II peacoats had the same size collars and lapels And the post WW II coats all had the same size collars and lapels.

Perhaps the references were discussing the difference between the WW II coats and the post war coats?