No, stretching a hat rarely ends well unless you are talking about change in the shape a bit to a long oval or if you are just nudging it out a bit. Vintage hats tend to run small due to leather shrinkageover the years. At a 58.5cm I would size up to a 59 and use spacers/pads in the sweat to bring it closer to your size. The first thing you need to do is determine your head shape...that is equally important as the actual size measure.
John Lofgren Monkey Boots Shinki Horsebuttt - $1,136 The classic monkey boot silhouette in an incredibly rich Shinki russet horse leather. 
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - $395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks. 
Schott 568 Vandals Jacket - $1,250 The classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, in a very special limited-edition Schott double rider style.
I measure 59cm exactly. Most off the shelf hats at 59cm fit tight on the forehead as I am a Long Oval shape.. The hats are tight at the forehead and there is a gap at the temples. If the hat is lightweight I can ease it out by using a two way hat stretcher then takes the excess at the temples and translates it into a longer shape. Depending on the shape of your head sometimes sizing up does not work so well as the gap at the temples is too great. It then looks funny and the hat may wobble as there is only contact with your head at the front and back......no contact on the sides. This more often occurring in heavier western weight felts. Lighter weight dress hats will sometimes conform to your head over time
Also, don't use cheap chinese tailor's tape. They have been know to be wrong.....slight variations with each centimetre so by the time you reach 59 or 60cm they can be out by as much as a full centimetre.
Well, it’s been over a month since I placed the order. No change in the status. Still no indication that the hats have been handed to the shipper, and no response to my emails and Google Maps still showing them as temporarily closed. Chargeback proceedings are underway.
As they are labeled, they are Milliners blocks, and often measured exclusively in cm.. Used for making women's hats, which because of that are softer wood to allow the pinning of materials to the block when making the creation (and why they often are filled with small holes, it's not wood worm
). I like them too as they often are lighter...but as they are for women's hats, they are very hard to find in larger sizes.
Ive wondered if they werent a womens form... one of mine has similar almost diagonal lines from someones previous work.... one also has layers of shellac stiffener that must have been sprayed over a lace veil during finishing Ive liked these forms because I can get them up through a leather sweatband without any risk if stretching and damaging. I can rework crinkled crown curves pretty nicely with them. Obviously not ideal for blocking, but useful for maintenance. Ive always loved old blocks..... look at holes, scratches and marks and think " wonder what they were doing right there) lolAs they are labeled, they are Milliners blocks, and often measured exclusively in cm.. Used for making women's hats, which because of that are softer wood to allow the pinning of materials to the block when making the creation (and why they often are filled with small holes, it's not wood worm
PS: Here is one of mine where they were also outlining their work.
View attachment 764349
It is a 787 in 22 1/2.
Just found an email from Akubra in my inbox this morning advertising the Big Sky. So, it’s back. What timing!
As long as the leather in the sweat is still supple then it can be used again. But check also the reed tape to make sure it is intact as that is the area that will take the stitch. Vintage hats used a material that would rot....newer ones are plastic and don't rot.
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