Dan718
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Punch and pinch or pinch and punch?
When creasing a fedora, which order do you go, and why?
When creasing a fedora, which order do you go, and why?
I don't know what "punch and pinch" means (nor "pinch and punch").Punch and pinch or pinch and punch?
When creasing a fedora, which order do you go, and why?
Punch and pinch or pinch and punch?
When creasing a fedora, which order do you go, and why?
Sorry, I assumed the terms were intuitive enough.I don't know what "punch and pinch" means (nor "pinch and punch").
When creasing a felt hat, I put in my center dent and then put in side dents or front dents. I don't punch them with my fists (if that's what you're asking), I generally use my palms to gently push the dents in and then correct with my fingers.
Pinching is only for making very sharp creases (edit: I should say: for me, anyway). I don't generally do that unless I'm sure that I am never going to change the bash (which I am hardly ever sure about, so I hardly ever do it).
I also do the bash followed by the pinch. The reverse never occurred to me.Sorry, I assumed the terms were intuitive enough.
I ask only because the instructions from The Hattery say to indent the sides (pinch) before pushing in the top (punch), whereas my instinct is to do the opposite.
Your method includes to mine it seems. I was interested in whether there were trade offs of benefits of one or the other, but I suppose the only way to be sure is to try both.
Sorry, I assumed the terms were intuitive enough.
I ask only because the instructions from The Hattery say to indent the sides (pinch) before pushing in the top (punch), whereas my instinct is to do the opposite.
Your method includes to mine it seems. I was interested in whether there were trade offs of benefits of one or the other, but I suppose the only way to be sure is to try both.
The term ‘punch’ isn’t on the instructions, sorry to confuse, I assumed it was fairly well known jargon.Are those instructions for forming a c-crease/teardrop? I ask because imo it really doesn't make sense to call a center crease a punch. But if you are changing a center crease into a c-crease or teardrop then okay maybe that could be called a punch?
Where did you find these instructions? I searched the The Hattery website and didn't find it.
If I have an open crown hat I make sure to mark the centres...front and back. Then i push in the centre dent. By doing it this way I am assured of having the centre dent in the right place and then the pinches are dead easy and I am assured to have a hat with the crease actually in the middle. If it is even slightly off centre then I am walking in one direction and the hat is walking a few degrees off.The term ‘punch’ isn’t on the instructions, sorry to confuse, I assumed it was fairly well known jargon.
I’m looking at the letter that came with my hat where they say to indent the sides and then push down the top, which seemed to me a bit **** about face, so I was curious to know what others thought.
"Punch" as jargon for "crease"? I personally have never heard it. Can I ask where you have heard it? (Not that Google is a final authority, but it also doesn't seem to be aware of any such use for "punch".)The term ‘punch’ isn’t on the instructions, sorry to confuse, I assumed it was fairly well known jargon.
If I have an open crown hat I make sure to mark the centres...front and back. Then i push in the centre dent. By doing it this way I am assured of having the centre dent in the right place and then the pinches are dead easy and I am assured to have a hat with the crease actually in the middle. If it is even slightly off centre then I am walking in one direction and the hat is walking a few degrees off.
Happy New Year, Mark. Glad to see your frequent posts again!
I have a stetston stratoliner, the stratoliner pin is painted and my question is, Is this standard or is it a special edition? I attach other photos of the hat for reference. My second question is what range of years is it from? Thankyou all very kindly for your attention.
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Always bugged me that Stetson used a twin engine dc3 airplane pin for most the older Stratoliner hats. Nice to see a 4 engine hat pin.I have a stetston stratoliner, the stratoliner pin is painted and my question is, Is this standard or is it a special edition? I attach other photos of the hat for reference. My second question is what range of years is it from? Thankyou all very kindly for your attention.
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Thank you Sir!Happy New Year, Mark. Glad to see your frequent posts again!
check out Busted Hats....they have a thread here in the Lounge. They are in Kentucky somewhere. Likely, a $125 cost to do the work.Refurbishing question:
I have a vintage Akubra Snowy River, probably a 90's version from what I can tell.- no lining, paper decal inside label, and thin ribbon band. I've had it for 15-20 years and it has seen a lot of use, and has been rain-soaked many times. About 10 years ago, one of the dogs got a hold of it and ate the sweatband, the label and part of the ribbon. I sewed in a new sweat the best I could and continued on with it. It needs to be refurbed now- the brim is drooping and has lost its definition from the crown. I have steamed and tried to reshape it a few times, even trying to iron it, but I think at this point it needs to be put on a block and reflanged, and a proper sweat replacement installed.
I could probably buy another barely used one from eBay for what the refurb would cost, but this one has sentimental value, and the felt is still in great shape.
I'm in the Louisville, KY area. Can anyone recommend someone to do this work, either in the area or I can ship it to? I'm not looking for a high-end service and would be fine with a hobbyist that does it.
John Lofgren Monkey Boots Shinki Horsebuttt - $1,136 The classic monkey boot silhouette in an incredibly rich Shinki russet horse leather.
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - $395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks.
Schott 568 Vandals Jacket - $1,250 The classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, in a very special limited-edition Schott double rider style. That's one of the best looking Snowy Rivers I've seen. Would love to see more photos. Is that the original ribbon?Refurbishing question:
I have a vintage Akubra Snowy River, probably a 90's version from what I can tell.- no lining, paper decal inside label, and thin ribbon band. I've had it for 15-20 years and it has seen a lot of use, and has been rain-soaked many times. About 10 years ago, one of the dogs got a hold of it and ate the sweatband, the label and part of the ribbon. I sewed in a new sweat the best I could and continued on with it. It needs to be refurbed now- the brim is drooping and has lost its definition from the crown. I have steamed and tried to reshape it a few times, even trying to iron it, but I think at this point it needs to be put on a block and reflanged, and a proper sweat replacement installed.
I could probably buy another barely used one from eBay for what the refurb would cost, but this one has sentimental value, and the felt is still in great shape.
I'm in the Louisville, KY area. Can anyone recommend someone to do this work, either in the area or I can ship it to? I'm not looking for a high-end service and would be fine with a hobbyist that does it.