I wish I could closet-shop like that!I needed a pair of black boots to wear with my black leather jacket, while I wait for Benzein to make engineers for me. I just remembered I still have a 30+ year old pair of boots from my time in Australian army in new condition. Problem solved!
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Yes - the soles are curved - it actually makes them v comfy once broken in and although they are incredibly sturdy it doesnt feel like that and the fit seems v natural. The curve actually helps with the “roll” of the stride, if that makes sense….
Do you have a pair of those JL engineers now? I think you sold some attractions steerhide boots if not mistaken. Im looking at the Lot 444 ones. Just wondering your thoughts on the two comparatively if the JLB are superior for a similar price point for example
John Lofgren Monkey Boots Shinki Horsebuttt - $1,136 The classic monkey boot silhouette in an incredibly rich Shinki russet horse leather.
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - $395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks.
Schott 568 Vandals Jacket - $1,250 The classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, in a very special limited-edition Schott double rider style. ^^ Yes I have a pair of JL in Natural CXL that I’m really happy with. I wasn’t looking for another pair, but these in all black (Shinki) won me over.
The Attractions are great boots too, I had both the steerhide and the HH. Quality and material is really high-end on both but I like the looks/profile of the JL a bit more. Attractions have a “slimmer” “fancier” or “sleeker” profile to my eye.. just my preference. You really won’t be disappointed with either.
lousy example but.. Lofgrens;
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Attractions:
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There's still some life left. When there's no more rubber and the stacked leather sole touches the ground then it's too late.When would you consider a resole? Been wearing these boots for about 7 months (around 3 times per week) and the heel is already pretty worn down.Getting quite close to the midsole especially on the right boot. The cats pow heel is not as durable as Dr sole ones. Should I send them in for a resole? View attachment 380872
I like the look of the Lofgren Engineer boot.
But as my feet is difficult to get the right fit, maybe you could help me out.
My instep is high. On my attractions lot 444 I had a cobbler to stretch the vamp and the "bottom of the shaft" so I could slip in and wear it.
On pictures it's looks like the shaft of the Lofgren is tighter/more narrow than other Engineers.
How would you compare the shaft of the Attractions to the Lofgrens?
And is the Lofgren higher in the toebox and vamp or comparable to the Attractions?
Thanks for your feedback!I know Lofgrens can be tough to get in, even now for some reason my left pops right in but my right I can still sometimes struggle with.. ( I think is me tho)
That shaft/ vamp connection is always the trouble spot.. always a chance that spot will be tight. I don’t think there is much difference in the diameter of the shaft. I can measure the JL if you think it might help.
I don’t recall there being anything unusual with how the Attractions fit me, they were very comfortable.
I wear a 10 in the attractions and 10.5 in the Lofgrens.
In the past I’ve used a shoe-tree with a sock or 2 over it to make new boots more comfortable. In the end I think you just need to wear these things a lot in the beginning to get them broken in enough to be comfortable.
There's still some life left. When there's no more rubber and the stacked leather sole touches the ground then it's too late.
More important is the wear on the sole at the toe. Avoid wear reaching the welt.
I've done this only once and this led to an annoying squeaking of the right shoe (probably some relative slide at the interface of the extra rubber layer and the leather sole). In general I tend to use more my toes while walking and, in combination with stiff soles, the leather soles wear fast at the toe area. In order to avoid unnecessary resoling I always have lulu steel plates installed at any new pair of shoes with leather soles. Not cheap and you have to find a really competent cobbler who can do this nicely.All my leather soles get a thin, glued-on rubber player over the sole pretty early on - either after a wear or two if they're a pair I'm precious about, or otherwise as soon as they first need the heels done. very thin, but I've yet to wear through them even when the heels need done two or three times.