Which of the Old Quality Shoe Brands Do You Love Most?

[ironthinker]

I love buying quaity pre-worn dress shoes. I've had years of ecpdrience with AEs and just stumbpled accross Adlens and love them even more. I have one pair of Hanover LB Sheppards
and love them. I want to try Florsheim Imperials, but how do I know if they are from the days when they made quality?

What are your two or three favorite brands when buying from the quality names of the past?

 

[Mormonopoly]

The easiest way to know you've got a quality pair of Florsheim Imperials is to look for the V-Cleat heel. As you get more experience with vintage shoes, you'll notice more subtle signs of quality, but that is a good starting point. My personal favorite Makers from the past are probably Stetson and Edwin Clapp. In my opinion, these companies produced some of the most elegant, beautiful lasts of all time.

 

[Phil4]

Florsheims are my favorites. They manage to be sleek and masculine at the same time, very American shoe. The older (70s early 80s) ones have the shield logo inside; newer ones have "big letters" Florsheim logo. All Imperials have the green stitching inside and say "Florsheim Imperial" in the little cutout window inside the shoe. Ones that say "made in USA" are newer. Tan lining with black lettering: old. Black lining with white lettering: newer. Made in India: avoid.

When sellers claim they are 50s or 60s Florsheims, they are usually in fact 80s. There are very few really old ones on ebay.

On Kenmore longwings, V cleat on the very outside of heel are the earlier 70s ones. V cleat inset a bit are later ones -- usually 80s. They have a double row of nails on heel (60+ in total I 'tink) and five nails in midsole area. Woodgrain finish on sole are later ones. Earlier ones have a reddish finish on sole bottom. All should have the double sole.

Not all were v cleats -- then as now some people hated the suicide heel and had rubber heelcaps fitted. I have a pair that are like that, genuine shell ones.

Florsheims are in demand these days, and some ebay sellers want big bux for them. Hanovers are even in demand. However, there are other brands that turn out nothing but crap today but used to made good shoes. True bargains. I bought some Nunn Bush USA, nice shell and cost me $45 delivered.