What leather conditioner do you use?

[Peacoat]

Lexol, in moderation, and no, I don't wait till it starts to dry or crack, because by then, the damage is already done...but for those who like the worn out look, you'll need to let it damage some before you dress it.

We need to make a distinction between leather that is dry and leather that is cracked. Leather that is dried out, and not cracked, will always come back with application of the proper conditioner. Leather that is cracked will never come back, irrespective of what is applied to it. At least that is my experience in twenty five years of working with, and conditioning, leather tack and saddles.

For cleaning tack, other than saddles, such as bridles and reins, I use a combination of Belvoir saddle soap and Lexol. This combination gets the sweat off and conditions the leather during the cleaning process. For saddles, I use a straight application of Belvoir saddle soap. Once or twice a year I will condition my saddles, that get the most use, with Devoucoux Belharra Leather Balsam on my Devoucoux saddle, as that is what was supplied with the saddle and what is recommended by Devoucoux. For my other saddles I use a German leather conditioner, Effax Lederbalsam. I also use Effax on my other tack when it starts to dry out. Easy to tell if the leather is getting dry by using the scientific "finger feel test." P5640blouson is right, we don't want to let the leather dry out, as cracking is the next step.

The contents of the various conditioners are similar, as might be expected. The Belharra contains beeswax and lanolin. The Effax contains lanolin, avocado oil and beeswax. And Obenauf's (used for boots) contains beeswax and propolis (a tree resin used by honeybees in their hives). These are three conditioners that are sitting in front of me as I just finished several reconditioning projects. There are other conditioners downstairs, but I don't have the time nor the inclination to tromp down there and have a look at the contents.

For the vintage leather jacket that is starting to get a bit dry, Pecard's is the choice of the leather experts on this, and other, forums. Of course Pecard's comes in many different types of applications. For our general purposes, the standard leather dressing (consistency of light grease) in the 16 oz. container is perhaps the place to start. I imagine the standard dressing is the same formulation as the antique leather dressing, but I don't know this for sure. In college I learned about "market segmentation," and I suppose the Pecard's marketing director took the same class.

In considering which cleaner/conditioner to use on our leather jackets, let's not forget that tack--saddles, bridles, reins, etc., boots and jackets are all different products, intended for different applications and certainly are all used differently. What works well on one, may not work quite as well on another.

Although some of this post has been a bit tangential, I hope parts of it have been helpful.

 

[Papa M]

The contents of the various conditioners are similar, as might be expected. The Belharra contains beeswax and lanolin. The Effax contains lanolin, avocado oil and beeswax. And Obenauf's (used for boots) contains beeswax and propolis (a tree resin used by honeybees in their hives).

Thanks for the detailed professional advice.

So how would you feel about my Burt's Bees Hand Salve as a leather conditioner?
Contents as follows: Sweet almond oil, olive oil, beeswax, vitamin E, comfrey root extract, rosemary oil & extract, lavandin oil & flower extract, eucalyptus oil.

The contents all sound pretty pure and natural to me so I wonder what the hazards might be.

 

[andy richards]

Thanks Peacoat for your detailed information. It sure helps when a pro like you take time and share information on this forum. Most of the guys here own one or more (precious) leather jackets and we don't want to ruin them with the wrong conditioner. I learned a lot from all the posts regarding this subject. Still one question: From Aero I have a can of "W.S. Robsonsn natural shoe polish - beeswax and carnauba". This is the polish Aero sells. On the back of the can there is a label: "Made by W.S. Robson Chain Bridge Honey Farm Berwich-upon-Tweed. Sole contents: Natural TurpentineWhite Spirit, Beeswax, Carnauba Wax". Also there is a Skull&Bones sign... Is there anyone who has experiences with this wax. :whistling
Thanks,
Andy

 

[Peacoat]

Papa M and Andy: Thank you for the compliment, but I'm not a professional in leather care, I have had some experience in the area through extensive use over the years. I'm sure there are many here who have more experience than I do in that area. An interesting note: Much of what I initially learned about leather care twenty five years ago came from English friends and tack shop employees from the UK. When it came to care of "English" saddles and tack, they were the recognized experts in the field (in this country we use the term "English saddle" to mean the European style of saddle, as opposed to the "Western saddle" popular in many areas here).

As you have probably discovered by now, Americans, a mostly friendly lot, are perfectly willing to give expert advice on many topics about which they know nothing. That's how I feel about giving advice on the wisdom of using Burt's Bees Salve on leather. At first blush it doesn't appear there would be anything in the ingredients that would be harmful to leather, but . . . .

We have to remember, however, that Burt's is formulated for hands. It isn't going to stay on the hands for periods of months or years and cause a build up of chemicals. A similar situation with boots. Frequent wetting and cleaning would cause a flushing of the substance from the leather. At least I have found that nothing stays on my boots for long periods of time, not even Obenauf's.

Jackets are a different situation. Once applied, the substance is pretty much there for the duration. Any substance that might cause damage to the leather will be on the jacket for an extended period of time. So rather than take the chance that a substance could decompose to form chemicals damaging to the fibers, I think I would stick to the tried and true when conditioning jackets.

As I remember from an earlier post, you apply the Burt's to an aged pair of Timberlands. Now, to answer your question, I think nothing bad could come of using Burt's on an old pair of boots, or to a new pair, either.

 

[Smithy]

In considering which cleaner/conditioner to use on our leather jackets, let's not forget that tack--saddles, bridles, reins, etc., boots and jackets are all different products, intended for different applications and certainly are all used differently. What works well on one, may not work quite as well on another.

I take it you are referring to me in this post as I was the one who mentioned using a product on all leather goods including saddles and tack. I personally have an entirely different experience. As I mentioned my family and I have used RM Williams Saddle and Leather Dressing on all leather goods from jackets, boots, bags, rugby boots, whips to horse tack and it works wonders on all of them. My family sheep and cattle farm in NZ so the tack takes a bit of a thrashing being used everyday in all conditions and the dressing does a sterling job, yet it works just as well on delicate items such as expensive leather jackets and luggage. I'm very happy with how it works on all the leather goods I've used it on and that's why I use it and will continue to do so. But that's merely my opinion and entirely subjective!

 

[HoosierDaddy]

It seems it can become kind of a heated issue of what to use to "protect" new leather. This topic comes up quite often with similar results. We seem to naturally assume that a nice new leather jacket should be treated or re-treated by us to help insure protection. However...some leathers are quite waxy direct from the tanners..or jacket makers...such as Aero's heavy FQHH. With this in mind...adding goop...is just adding goop. Aero has had trade-in jackets so heavily saturated that even they couldn't get it off..and resold them as is. There is quite a difference of rejuvenating a vintage leather jacket and treating a newer jacket before it's time. If it is still just too tempting...at least proceed sparingly and with caution.
HD

 

[HighandDry]

When I purchased my Langlitz, Dave (the manager at Langlitz) told me to apply their leather dressing to the jacket new as this would soften the leather. He also recommended to use their dressing twice a year to keep the leather supple and water resistant.

After reading this thread, I'm not sure what to do .

 

[P5640blouson]

do it for effect

Every maker would rather you buy it, wear it, and buy another one when the jacket wears to the point where you don't like it any more. For some, that point may be when there is a moderate amount of wear. For others, the more worn out the better they like it. If you use a quality conditioner and putting it on sparingly gives the right effect on the leather, then you will be fine. If you put too much and you like the gooped up look, then its your perogative. The point is to treat it to your liking. A waxy or coated leather won't absorb much dressing anyways so cleanup is easier if you put too much. Vinyl coated (non absorbing leather) wont take dressings, they take vinyl protectant because that's what the top coat is, vinyl! A fine leather jacket will use natural leather and have quality top coat to protect the natural finish and still breathe, instead of vinyl coating. Bottom line is that most quality dressings will evaporate off the jacket eventually. It is better to apply sparingly and more often than to soak it all at once. That way, you can achieve the effect that you want. It really is personal preference.

On my fine lamb jackets, I put barely a fine coat of lexol and spray lightly with leather protectant from Cole Haan to make it resist stains just in case. Applying super lightly maintains the new sheen rather than altering the showroom look from new. A quality dressing like lexol and others mentioned here when used sparingly will not damage your jacket, if your jacket is made using quality leather with quality tanning, it should only serve to extend the life of the leather.

A cheap mall jacket with mall jacket leather will fall apart all on its own as its finishing is junk, made to look good on the rack, but not when exposed to the elements, UV, and body oils/dead skin. I had one of those coats made by Alfani from Macy's, it was junk. I did not dress it and wore it but a few times and after storing it for a year in California, the surface was cracking on the edges and folds all on its own, revealing the gray nap of leather when the original color was dark brown. Unbelievable as I paid $350 for it.

If you live in dry climate, dressing is a must, believe me! But quality leather can handle dry climates much better. Nevertheless, you must still dress it or put it in humidity controlled storage. In wet climates, watch out for fungus growing on your leather. Good dressings and keeping the leather clean abates wet climate damage. Once fungus starts you cant remove it because it grows and spreads deep in the fibers. Hard to say what dressings is the best but I am sure that those that are mentioned here already and vouched for by members own experience are safe.

I use lexol myself because its easy to obtain, gives a good aroma and is easy to apply, wipe off, and control. It handles well and so I use it. I use lanolin based cleaner (lexol cleaner) to clean my leather of airborn contaminates from wearing. This has been my experience owning various leather articles from shoes to wallets to gloves. I've owned 6 leather jackets in my lifetime, 4 of which are on the high end.
YMMV.

 

[johnnyjohnny]

off topic suggestion...

my good friend P5640blouson, i have one hyphenated word for you:

paragraph-break


;D

 

[P5640blouson]

Thanks my friend from the south

Thanks my friend from the south, near south, that is. My formatting skills are left wit the MLA manual thats in my bookcase. Unfortunately I have not kept up with my grammar skills, either. My handwriting is even worse than my paragraph structure. I'll pull the manual back out and review it...

 

[jon z]

Hydrophane

 

[jchosko]

i'm a big fan of obenauf's brand leather oil and leather protectant. it has a nice honey smell at first, but after a few days the smell disappears and you're left with the smell of the original garment. i used to use montana pitch blend products (which is recommended by fox creek leather, who make excellent jackets), but i found it to have a bit too much of a piney smell to it. just my .02

 

[Bankwalker]

Another Product

Anybody try Blackrock Leather N Rich?

 

[dnjan]

Has anyone ever used neatsfoot oil? It is (or at least used to be) the recommended product for pump leathers, such as pumps on coleman stoves or high-pressure bicycle pumps. But I've never used it on anything but pump leathers.

 

[Garrett]

Meltonian leather lotion has worked quite well for me

 

[Peacoat]

Has anyone ever used neatsfoot oil? It is (or at least used to be) the recommended product for pump leathers, such as pumps on coleman stoves or high-pressure bicycle pumps. But I've never used it on anything but pump leathers.

And baseball gloves way back a long time ago.

 

[Stearmen]

Mink Oil

I have used Mink oil for two decades, seems to work just fine. I put a little on my hand and rub it on! That sounded really dirty!

 

[TracyB]

Has anyone ever used neatsfoot oil? It is (or at least used to be) the recommended product for pump leathers, such as pumps on coleman stoves or high-pressure bicycle pumps. But I've never used it on anything but pump leathers.

Hi! I am new here was really looking for some information on my vintage fur and my 1942 sidesaddle habit, but I thought I would chime in here.

Pure Neatsfoot oil is very hard to come by these days. Now it is pretty much a compound, the compound is said to rot stitching. This is not much of a problem to most people currently as most modern thread is a nylon blend, but my saddle circa 1915 still has linen stitches in some non-stress locations (that have yet to be replaced) and I am careful not to use the compound. The same can be said of any vintage leather goods. I use either Effax lederbalsm (which someone mentioned) or Passier lederbalsm (just a different brand) on my saddle leather. I am VERY particular what is used on my 90+ year old sidesaddle which is my full-time saddle, not a display saddle.

However recently I found of a leather product that was designed in italy for use in the furniture trade and it works WONDERS on coats, shoes, bags, belts, and I have even used it on my precious saddle.

This product is URAD. The consistancy is somewhat between a balm and a liquid.

I have only seen it at equestrian related expositions but if anyone is interested, I will check if there is a website listed on the packaging in a few days when I get home from a business trip.

 

[Talbot]

Leather Preservation

ADMIN NOTICE - This covers treatment for All leather outerwear. The fact that this old leather sofa needed treatment and preservatives is an interesting entry point into WHAT's BEST for our old beat up leather jackets and coats?...

I did a search, but couldn't find anything hence this thread.

Mods: I admit this thread is O/T, but I couldn't think where else to put it. Feel free to move with my apols. I just figured the folks in this neck of the woods know their leather.

My daughter purchased this sofa recently and loves its character (as do I). I don't want to restore it, I just want something to stop it getting worse. It will probably wind up with throw rugs and cusions etc over it.

What treatment should I apply to stop the leather deteriorating further?

All advice gratefully accepted.

Its in storage BTW, hence the cramped quarters.

 

[sixties.nut]

You could use the leather treatment cremes found at your local auto parts store to revitalize the dried parts of the leather. But before you use it, you might think about the two center cushions where they're starting to crack, I'm pretty sure that if you did not iron one of those temperature adhesive patches on the backside first that you would run into problems when you went to sew the creases with a curved leather needle.

Oh, and just so you know, with dried leather it will soak up the creme no matter how much you apply. Just use enough to see the leather darken and move on to the next spotch. One bottle will go a long way. For a couch size application no more than two bottles should do ya.