Wearing Braces / Suspenders

[3PieceSuitGuy]

Hello,

As my forum name suggests I like to wear 3 piece suits. To get my trousers draping properly I wear braces, or suspenders as they are known in the States when I wear a 3 piece. My problem is that I have wide shoulders that slope a bit and a small waist and find that the braces can be seen out of the armholes of my vest quite often, ruining the look. I think this is most likely due to the large armholes in Modern vests, some of my 3 pieces are Brooks and Kuppenheimer amongst others and I find myself constantly pushing my braces back under the vest.

I was wondering if there is something I can do with the positioning of the buttons on my trousers to minimise this? I can't always fix the armholes on the vests, but thought there may be a trick that the knowledgeable Fedora Lounge members can clue me in on!

Thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Peter

 

[Shangas]

I always thought a good waistcoat was one that fit relatively snugly. There should be a minimum of space under the armpits.

If that's not the case, then I think cutting off your suspender-buttons and sewing them back on in a different configuration or positioning is probably the best solution. It's what I would do if I wore suspenders, which I don't, but which I probably should.

 

[avedwards]

I don't know how much can be done about that. My vintage suits are the worst for showing braces as the armholes start quite a few inches in from my shoulders. I don't mind it too much though.

 

[AntonAAK]

Keep your jacket on?

 

[Edward]

Yes, this does happen with vintage too.... my suspicion is that it's as much about the shape of one's shoulders as anything. FWIW, I find the look of a belt being visible under a waistcoat, as is common with contemporary cuts, far more vulgar.

 

[Rudie]

I find this to happen more with V-shaped braces than with Y-shaped suspenders.

 

[davidraphael]

Does anyone recommend a specific kind of trouser (and/or cut) that will work better with braces?

I seem to be having difficulty finding 1930s/40s style trousers with pre-attached buttons, particularly in Europe.

I usually go for thick brown or grey cord/work-trouser style, or casual herringbone or tweed....

Anyone have recommendation where I may be able to purchase?

thanks!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I was wondering if there is something I can do with the positioning of the buttons on my trousers to minimise this? I can't always fix the armholes on the vests, but thought there may be a trick that the knowledgeable Fedora Lounge members can clue me in on!

There's a solution, Peter. Buy a pair of braces (but button-on, not clip-on) that have this back: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Black-...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item8bb3da6f25


See the metal 'triangle' clip on the back? It can be adjusted up or down. The higher up you put it, the more it draws the brace straps inward toward your collarbone and neck, and away from your waistcoat's armholes.


The difficulty is in finding braces with an adjustable metal triangle clip and button-on fasteners. Vintage ones exist, but I don't think there's a modern version.

 

[avedwards]

There's a solution, Peter. Buy a pair of braces (but button-on, not clip-on) that have this back: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Black-...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item8bb3da6f25


See the metal 'triangle' clip on the back? It can be adjusted up or down. The higher up you put it, the more it draws the brace straps inward toward your collarbone and neck, and away from your waistcoat's armholes.


The difficulty is in finding braces with an adjustable metal triangle clip and button-on fasteners. Vintage ones exist, but I don't think there's a modern version.

My problem with the example you posted (even if they were the button sort of braces) is that there are two seperate elastic straps. I prefer this sort (in button on version of course):

I like the Y shape and the sturdy piece of leather which fastens the two elastic straps where they become one. If any of my braces is visible through the armholes of my waistcoat I don't really mind that much as I think it just shows that I have sufficient style to wear my trousers at the correct height.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

My problem with the example you posted (even if they were the button sort of braces) is that there are two seperate elastic straps. I prefer this sort (in button on version of course):

Right, but these won't help Peter with his problem.

 

[thunderw21]

Suspenders showing at the vest armholes, IMO, is part of the look.

Don't fight it, accept it.

 

[sproily]

I agree with the man! ^

 

[Widebrim]

FWIW, I find the look of a belt being visible under a waistcoat, as is common with contemporary cuts, far more vulgar.

Agree.

 

[avedwards]

Suspenders showing at the vest armholes, IMO, is part of the look.

Don't fight it, accept it.

:arated: :arated: :arated:

 

[Rudie]

Right, but these won't help Peter with his problem.

Why not? Because of the Y-strap the "fork" is higher and the straps are nearer to the neck. If find that my V-shaped braces tend to slip from the shoulders more easily than the Y-shaped one's.

 

[Edward]

Does anyone recommend a specific kind of trouser (and/or cut) that will work better with braces?

I seem to be having difficulty finding 1930s/40s style trousers with pre-attached buttons, particularly in Europe.

I usually go for thick brown or grey cord/work-trouser style, or casual herringbone or tweed....

Anyone have recommendation where I may be able to purchase?

thanks!

In the UK, Old Town is a good option. Expensive, yes, but superb stuff. I'm planning to buy some myself at some point; I know several people who buy regularly from them and their garments are superb.

Try the wide leg, High-rise model...

http://old-town.co.uk/products/highrise.htm

Suspenders showing at the vest armholes, IMO, is part of the look.

Don't fight it, accept it.

Yes, another vote for this. I think we all - and I'm as guilty of this as anyone - often forget that people back in the 30s and 40s didn't fuss over their style to get it "right" the same way we do.... really, to them it was just clothes. I try to remind myself of this whenever I get too anal.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Why not? Because of the Y-strap the "fork" is higher and the straps are nearer to the neck...

But perhaps not near enough, since his shoulders slope. And since that "fork" is not adjustable, he wouldn't be able to raise it high enough to sufficiently bring the straps inward, according to his need.

 

[Dennis Young]

Hi all!

I ordered a brand new set of suspenders and they came in today. This is my first time wearing them. They probably arent truly accurate to the period of the 40s, (they are clip on), but they have the adjustable 'X' back. I really like them though. But my question:

I have seen photos of people wearing suspenders with a belt, and without a belt. Which was true to the period? Or rather, which is proper? I have to admit that it seems a bit weird wearing suspenders on pants that have belt loops too.

 

[Shangas]

NEWSFLASH:

I bought my first pair of braces! $4 at my local charity shop where I volunteer once a week.

For $4 I wasn't expecting much. The buckles and clips are all fine. It has a bit of structural wear which I'm fixing right now. I need to resew some of the buttonholes (which are coming undone) and sew up one of the straps (that's a bit torn). But otherwise it's in good condition.

Is it possible or advisable to sew the necessary buttons for braces onto a pair of trousers that normally uses a belt?

It's just that I'm getting a bit tired of wearing belts. I find they don't so much hold up my trousers as they just tighten them up to stop them falling down. And that frustrates me becuse when my shirt comes untucked I have to fight to shove it back in. Somehow I figure that won't be a problem with suspenders.

The suspenders are red with some garish pattern on the front. Fortunately with a waistcoat, nobody will see it. It's a Y-backed set and requires six buttons to be sewn onto a pair of trousers (inside the waistband, presumably).

I've got an old shirt which I haven't worn in years (and which I can't give to charity anyway). I'm gonna salvage the buttons off of that (which are of an appropriate size) and sew them onto a set of trousers.

--- --- --- --- --- --- --- ---

Well, I went ahead with my experiment.

I sewed up the buttonholes and the rip on the suspenders. I cut the buttons off the old shirt and sewed them thusly on my trousers along the waistband:

Two in the middle of the back.

Four at the front, about an inch or two either side of the fly.

Put the trousers & suspenders together and adjusted the clasps.

Fits PERFECTLY!

The shoulders and front of my waistcoat perfectly cover the suspenders. If I didn't tell you about them, you'd never see them! See?

Without waistcoat:

...With waistcoat:

 

[Edward]

Hi all!

I ordered a brand new set of suspenders and they came in today. This is my first time wearing them. They probably arent truly accurate to the period of the 40s, (they are clip on), but they have the adjustable 'X' back. I really like them though. But my question:

I have seen photos of people wearing suspenders with a belt, and without a belt. Which was true to the period? Or rather, which is proper? I have to admit that it seems a bit weird wearing suspenders on pants that have belt loops too.

Regarding period accuracy, here in the UK, clip-on braces first came on the market around 52/53. They were invented in the US, and over there were first on sale in the late Forties, targetted specifically to trouser-wearing ladies, although they were soon adopted by men. These days I will only wear button-on braces (you'll soon find it really isn't hard to sew the buttons on yourself.... and at a push can be quite inexpensive to have done at a local dry-cleaners that also offers repairs and alterations. I learned to do my own through constructing Riff Raff costumes for Rocky Horror), but I started out with clip-ons a long time ago - I'm sure many people do.

As to wearing a belt with braces.... if wearing braces, the belt is entirely superfluous, unless being worn to carry a gun-holster, for instance.