Vintage Eyeglasses

[Dr Doran]

Oh my goodness, those are so cool. They remind me of the glasses Richard Burton wore in Faust.
DDD: last pair. Yes.

I did not know Richard Burton was in a film of Faust. I do adore the Chris Marlowe play, though, and I love the Goethe one although I have only read it in translation, not in the original German as my German is so bad it would take a week or more to do it. Does it follow these? Maybe I should see it.

 

[Dr Doran]

A very strange pair I won on Ebay recently. They came from China. This is the picture from Ebay. They are copper with some bluish patina. They fit low on the nose. The arms have a hinge and look like the legs of a cricket. I imagine these to be worn in opium dens. I'm quite fond of them. My instinct tells me they are from before the 1930s.

 

[Ranger01]

I just got my new glasses Friday. They are NOS 1965 Army issue frames, with new lenses. I just love the Buddy Holly look.

Please excuse the bad hair, stubble, and ragged Tshirt... I was workin around the house today.

 

[Dr Doran]

Excellent. You look more Buddy Holly than early Elvis Costello did!

 

[Dr Doran]

"I can have you killed if you !@#$%&! with me". Seriously,great glasses Tim. Don't kill me...

One of my criteria when selecting spectacles is that they must look believable and sinister if my line in a spy film would be "You'll be killed for that."

 

[Ranger01]

Excellent. You look more Buddy Holly than early Elvis Costello did!

Haha, thanks man.

 

[Talbot]

Adjusting plastic spectacle frames

Well, sunglasses actually.

I did a search, but couldn't find anything. If this has been covered before apols and please point me in the right direction.

I picked up some Clubmasters the other day and need to adjust the arms. I must have a funny shaped noggin' I guess.

In the past I have dipped the arms in hot water to soften the plastic before bending. Is this the best way? Even though these are 1980's vintage I'd hate to damage them.

Any suggestions on how to remove the painted Rayban script on the lens? They might look less repro without it.

Thanks

Talbot

 

[Jerekson]

I think that if they are 1980's you should be fine. From my experience plastics take a really long time to get brittle enough to break from adjustment. You'd be surprised how well they hold up. I would go for the hot water, but if nothing else take them to an experienced optometrist.

You could try some sort of paint thinner on the lens. Depending on what type of paint it is, it would help signifigantly in removing it. I beleive the Ray-Ban stuff is latex paint, but I'm not sure.

 

[Talbot]

I think that if they are 1980's you should be fine. From my experience plastics take a really long time to get brittle enough to break from adjustment. You'd be surprised how well they hold up. I would go for the hot water, but if nothing else take them to an experienced optometrist.

You could try some sort of paint thinner on the lens. Depending on what type of paint it is, it would help signifigantly in removing it. I beleive the Ray-Ban stuff is latex paint, but I'm not sure.

Tanks for the info. I think the lenses are plastic, don't feel at all like my B&L aviators. Not sure I'd put thinners near them.

Love the clip wing H-1 BTW !

 

[Talbot]

Just out of curiosity, how many different shapes do Clubmaster's come in? The pair I have don't look as full or deep as the early ones.

 

[Smithy]

If they'll agree to do it. I've found that most will refuse to touch something that might break. But they may have some advice for you on what to do.

How strange. I've never had an optometrist refuse to do such things in the countries I have lived. In fact I've never even had to pay for such service, they have all done it for free.

 

[Edward]

Hot water, hair dryer, or a candle (be careful not to set it alight with that one!). I wouldn't try to remove the logo myself - chances are you'll only damage the lens. You could of course always have the lenses replaced if it's that big a deal to you, but unless they're broken I wouldn't suggest it. An optician once advised me against spending the money on RayBans when I was considering having the lenses replaced with prescription lenses - apparently it's the quality of the lens that you're really paying for with a pair of Bans, rather than the frames.

 

[DeaconKC]

Be careful with paint thinner or mineral spirits on plastic lenses. Try rubbing with Pine Sol.

 

[skyvue]

My wife and I both wear vintage frames, and we both receive many positive remarks on them -- her, especially.

Here's what they look like:

 

[BellyTank]

Nice "trouser shirt"- did it yerself..?


B
T

 

[skyvue]

Nice "trouser shirt"- did it yerself..?

Actually, yes, but you can get one, too, at my new online venture:

Cladrite.com

 

[BellyTank]

I admire your subltle, yet perfectly targeted marketing.

I just might.


B
T

 

[Buddy]

This is a timely bump for this tread. I'm looking for a pair of 1930s era frames or reproductions, preferably the wire type that hook around the back of the ears.

The challenge? I have a big head (no jokes please ) and I'm allergic to nickle, which is usually found in most brass and jewlers metals. I'm good with titanium (hard to find that in vintage!) or gold.

I'm not planning on using these as everyday glasses, but the allergy is bad enough to make me break out in a rash even if I wear it for ony a few hours.

Does anyone have a handle on a firm that makes reproduction frames from titanium? I'll look for a 30s era gold pair, but last time I looked they were quite expensive thanks to the price of gold.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Sands Hotel]

Hello Buddy,

Shuron makes a frame called Ronstrong, and it matches many of your requirements. I'm not aware of the type of metal used; however, the sales staff is very friendly and helpful. I'm sure a quick call will get you an answer. I just ordered some Ronsir Zyl's after having received three pairs of frames in advance, all with different sizes. They do this, for a small deposit, to help you find your correct size.

As you will see, the Ronstrong is available in a plethora of sizes:
Eye/Bridge: 40, 42 & 44 / 19 & 21; 46, 48 & 50 / 19, 21 & 23; 52 & 55 / 21 & 23
TPL: Tondo Skull - 135, 140, 145, 150, 158, 165 & 172
Regular Cable - 145, 150, 158, 165 & 172

http://www.shuron.com/ronstrong.htm

Hope this helps.

Sands Hotel

 

[Buddy]

Thanks Sands Hotel - those are just what I'm looking for. I'll drop them an email asking about the metal composition and I might just be in business.

Cheers,

Mike