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Vintage Buco J-24 Stitching.

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
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4,944
Location
London
Hi all,

I was doing some sunday morning leather stalking online and saw this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Buco-J-2...401238?hash=item33f574bf96:g:fycAAOSwsj5bnv~e

A close inspection of the pictures made me notice something i had never noticed before,
for some reason this J-24 is constructed mostly using a double top stitched flat seam rather than the usually seen folded seam with a single row of top stitch.

Here is a "regular" modern J-24, as currently offered by RMC and showing the stitching you would expect to see on the back and sleeves of a J-24, notice only the kidney panel is double top stitched to the back panel:
(@stephenc2032 i reused you picture, i can use another one if it is a problem)




Here is the vintage one with the double top stitched flat seam on the back , sides and arms:

4jZYU6N.jpg


w4UamfH.jpg


The construction of that one looks a lot more like what they did on their early models like the JH-1:

NiiDDxy.jpg


PM47qvq.jpg


It seems most current J-24 reproductions go for "regular" folded stitching, probably because it is easier and less time consuming than the double top stitch option.

What is going on here? Is this a very early J-24?
Did they switch over from the double top stitch over to the single top stitch folded seam sometime over the life of the J-24?

Any info from the vintage collectors would be welcome, I can't find anything online or in the Rin Tanaka book.
It seems the JH-1, J-21, J-22, J-23 an J-31 all had double top stitch, but that they phased that out around the time of the J-24 (J-24,J-24H, J-71, J-82 and J-100) all have single top stitch folded seam construction.
 
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16,822
I've never seen this sort of stitch on any (photo of a) Buco J-20-something. Or on any other jacket for that matter. I think the jacket above has just been restitched. Possibly repaired.
 

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