TWEEDFEST 2018 PART II! c.38 - 48. GRAILS! Langrock of Princeton, Harris Tweed, Vintage, Cashmere, +

[tweedydon]

TWEEDFEST 2018 CONTINUES!

21) VINTAGE Princeton University Store 3/2 Sack by Deansgate

c. 40, 42. Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 31 1/4

This is a lovely, classic, vintage 3/2 sack! And it has a lovely Ivy provenance, having been made for Princeton University Store by Deansgate!

Dated "Jan. 18, 1980" this is cut as a classic 3/2 sack jacket in lighter-weight brown herringbone tweed--a staple of the Ivy wardrobe! It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a single center vent. It has two button cuffs, and all of its buttons are leather-covered metal-shanked "football" buttons, as is appropriate.

Given that it is approaching its 39th birthday this jacket is in excellent condition! However, it is a vintage piece, and I'm very cautious with their grading, so this is in Very Good condition, and a steal at just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.








22) GRAIL! ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS Vintage 3/2 sack for The English Shop of Princeton

Tagged 42L. Measurements:

Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 31

This jacket is so wonderful it's hard to know where to begin!

Perhaps with its most obvious feature: The absolutely;y beautiful cloth that it is cut from! A wonderful Glen Plaid in the subdued dark forest and loden greens that are so evocative of classic menswear of the 1950s and 1960s (and that are almost never seen today), accented with lighter creamy-brown overchecking, this is a truly beautoful cloth.

The jacket does it full justice. Made for The English Shop of Princeton--one of the Big Five Ivy clothiers in Princeton during The Golden Age--this is cut as a classic 3/2 sack. It is half-canvassed and half-lined in a dark blue-green that perfectly complements the tweed exterior. It has a single rear vent, and two button cuffs. It has very natural shoulders.

All of its buttons are the original 1960s buttons; indeed, with the exception of some minor collar creep (easily fixed) this jacket is in absolutely excellent condition,so much so that it's hard to believe that this is an original early 1960s Ivy jacket!

It was, of course, Union Made in the USA.

A jacket of this quality, in this condition, is rare indeed--and so this is a true bargain at just $49, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.










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[tweedydon]

23) Cheeky 1970s Tweed!​

c. 38, 40S. Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/8
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29 1/2

If you know menswear well you'll know immediately what decade this jacket was from--and if you know menswear very well you'll also be able to guess what sort of person originally bought this!

The slightly wide lapels and the scalloped pocket flaps place this in the 1970s.... But that the lapels are not too wide and the scalloping more an echo of a British hacking jacket than a deliberate fashion statement places this jacket as one that was bought by someone more used to classic clothing, who was making a tentative foray into the 1970s.

Let's hope that he retreated quickly... But he didn't make any egregious errors with this jacket! While most 1970s items that veer towards the fashionable are rather garish, this little gem is more cheeky--there's something very appealing about its knowingly moving towards being fashionable but not quite being willing to commit!

This means that this is utterly wearable today! It's also very versatile, with a lovely striped tweed of dove grey, petrol blue, and berry red accent stripe. It is a two button model with very subtle darts, a single rear vent, and two button cuffs.

It was Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition!

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

24) GORGEOUS Corneliani 3/2 Tweed Jacket With Twin Vents.​

Tagged EU 58R (US 48R), this measures closer to a 46.

Chest: 23 1/8
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/4
Length: 32 1/8

This is Corneliani's "Easy"model, and it's very well-named--this is clearly a very comfortable jacket to wear!

Cut as a 3/2 jacket with subtle darts, this has a twin vent. It is half-canvassed and fully lined; the lining is lovely, being striped in shades of brown to complement the rich autumnal brown of the tweed exterior.

Made in Italy--of course!--this jacket is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $49, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.

 

[tweedydon]

25) GRAIL! Stunning Cashmere 3/2 sack.

Dated November 4, 1960.



Made By "Rogers Peet x Marston"!​

I have information about both Rogers Peet and Marston on my Facebook page, WaterhollowTweed!​

Tagged 42L. Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 31 1/2

This is absolutely gorgeous, and in simply incredible condition!

Long before companies realized the marketing advantages of collaborating with "heritage" menswear brands ("Land Rover x Barbour", "Levis x Filson", and so on) there was a groundbreaking collaboration between Rogers Peer--the preeminent upscale department store of New York City--and Marston, its West Coast equivalent.

Although this collaboration was not heralded with press conferences at hooplah--neither the old-money Rogers Peet nor the civic-minded George Marston would have even considered something so vulgar--the wealthy denizens of San Diego did take notice when they saw in the labels of the clothing they were considering not just one, but two, of the most prominent names in upscale retail. And what cool Californian wouldn't want something from Rogers Peet in their wardrobe--especially when visiting the actual store wouldn't be at all easy, or cheap!

This jacket is one of the few surviving items from that historic collaboration... and given its incredible quality both Rogers Peet and Marston's would be proud that its survived to show the quality of their joint wares.

Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly cashmere--and not the thin stuff so widely available in malls today, but the seriously soft and luxurious cashmere of the middle of last century. And the patterning and colourway are just as remarkable as the softness of the cloth; a wonderful shepherds' check in peat black, midnight blue, with chestnut accents. beautiful--and utterly mid-century.

The jacket does full justice to the cloth. Cut as a 3/2 sack with an exceptionally elegant lapel roll, this is half-lined in striped lining to complement the cloth, and is fully canvassed. It has a single center vent. It also has three patch pockets--all of which are fitted with center reverse pleats, both for function and style.

Naturally, this jacket was Union Made in the USA.

less naturally for a jacket that was made on November 4th, 1960, this is in incredible condition. I am very conservative in grading vintage pieces, and so would never call one Mint--but this comes very close, and is in absolutely excellent condition. It was clearly worn sparingly, if at all.... Maybe it was even bought as a souvenir of the Peet x Marston collaboration.

One thing that is bittersweet is the date--November, 1960. Within a year of this jacket's being finished and sent West Marston's was no more.

This is a true Grail item--but one that is utterly wearable. A contemporary jacket of this quality would retail on the secondary market for quite a bit; a jacket with this history far more. So, it's hard to price this... But since my approach here has always been to price items so that even I, a very frugal buyer, would be very pleased with the bargain, how about just $75, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA?

A piece of sartorial history for less than the cost of a used recent jacket from Brooks on the 'bay!

 

[tweedydon]

26) LOVELY Harris Tweed jacket in grey and cream "broken bone" herringbone, with lilac and sky blue striping.​

c. 40. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30

This is lovely! Cut from a lovely grey-and-cream broken bone herringbone Harris tweed shot through with vertical stripes of lilac and sky blue, this is a truly beautiful jacket!

It is cut as a contemporary two-button model with subtle darting, and is half-lined. It has a single center vent, and all of the buttons are metal-shanked, leather-covered football buttons. It was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

27) CLASSIC Harris Tweed jacket in bracken and slate-grey basketweave.​

c. 42, 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/2

Cut from a lovely classic basketweave Harris tweed in bracken and slate grey, this is a contemporary two button jacket with a half-lining, half-canvas construction, and a single center vent. All of its buttons are leather-covered, metal-shanked "football" buttons.

It was, of course, made in the USA, and with the exception of a quarter-sized water spot on the lining of the shoulders it is in excellent condition.

NB: Please note that the jacket does NOT have a mark on the label; that's just a shadow!

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

28) J. Press 3/2 Sack in Harris Tweed! Elbow patches!

JUST $29, or offer!

Tagged 46L. c. 44, 46. Measurements:

Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 20 1/4
Length: 32

This is still absolutely beautiful--despite the flaws that I'l outline below!

Cut from a beautiful basketweave Harris Tweed in slate grey, cream, and bracken this wonderful jacket from J. Press is a classic 3/2 sack. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features a single center vent. It has three button cuffs--all of the buttons are leather-wrapped football buttons with metal-shanks; the leather is the colour of
burnished chestnuts.

This jacket also has suede elbow patches, chosen to match the chestnut of the buttons. These are likely to be after-market additions--and are likely to cover some weakness underneath them, as this was clearly a much-loved jacket! It has some rubbing to the leading edges of the placket, although this can't really be seen unless you're looking for it, and it has had two professional patch repairs to the lining. It also some fraying and tearing in the lining under the arms.

With some TLC this could be YOUR favourite jacket, as it was its original owner's.... and to help this dream come true this is just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA!

How often can you buy a J. Press 3/2 sack in Harris tweed for less than the price of a tank of gas?!

 

[tweedydon]

29) VINTAGE "Scottish Dusk" Harris Tweed 3/2 Sack Jacket.

GORGEOUS & RARE!



Tagged 42L. (c. 40L) Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 1/2(+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 31

Solid-colour Harris Tweed jackets are much rarer than their patterned cousins, and when they appear they often do so in colours that are reminiscent of the Scottish islands on which the cloth they are cut from is woven.

I'm thus very pleased to offer this lovely wintry-grey Harris tweed, reminiscent of tendrils of woodsmoke at gloaming on a crisp November evening in Scotland, with game stew and whisky waiting at the croft. This is a truly lovely, heathery Harris--my pictures really don't do it justice at all!

Cut as a traditional 3/2 sack, this jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single center vent, and was Made in the USA. It was originally sold by Cliff Allen, an upscale clothing store in Amherst... known outside Amherst as a result of the theft of 110 worth of suits from the store in 1965!

This jacket could do with a press and a dry-clean to freshen it up, and so is in Very Good condition.

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

30) GRAIL! Heavyweight Harris Tweed Jacket.



Woven by Kenneth Mackenzie​

Size c. 40R/L. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 32

This jacket is absolutely GORGEOUS--Harris Tweed as it is meant to be! Weighing in at just under 2 1/2lbs, this beautiful jacket is cut from the most traditional Harris Tweed fabric woven today--the thick, heavy, slightly rough Harris Tweed produced by the Kenneth Mackenzie in Stornoway.

Kenneth Mackenzie was founded in 1906--three years BEFORE the institution of The Harris Tweed Authority. Since they pre-date the HTA and its "Orb" logo Kenneth Mackenzie is the only mill to eschew the HTA label on its cloth, instead affixing their own label identifying the fabric as Harris Tweed. (Although they do have the cloth stamped with the Orb logo.) This serves to identify their cloth as the most traditional Harris Tweed.... and hence items made from it as being cut from precisely the same cloth as that which was made before the First World War.

And not only is this jacket cut from Kenneth Mackenzie cloth--it is a beautiful *almost* solid colour, being a wonderful heathery mix of dusky greys, charcoals, and creams, presenting the rich and varied texture of a Scottish hillside. This is what Harris Tweed does best!

This jacket does full justice to the heavyweight cloth that it is cut from. Beautifully tailored, this is a contemporary two-button model with subtle darts. It features the traditional leather-covered, metal-shanked "football" buttons, and has a single rear vent. It is half-canvassed, and fully lined in a beautoful Royal Blue lining that is the perfect complement to the colouring of the cloth.

This jacket was tailored and sold in Israel by the Polgat Company, as the top of the line garment for their "Adult" range of men's wear. (The label is in Hebrew.) This provenance is perfectly suited for a traditional Harris Tweed jacket of this quality--after all, it was Jewish tailoring that both made Ivy Style what it is (through Chipp, J. Press, Martin Greenfield, and others) and (through Ralph Lauren) popularized it into its preppy variant!

This jacket appears unworn; it is in mint condition.

As such, this is an absolute bargain at just $60, or offer... And if this is in your size grab it, as Mackenzie Harris jackets don't come along often, and almost never in this condition!

Asking just $65, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

31) ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS!



Italian Guncheck Tweed Jacket in Loro Piana wool and cashmere.​

Tagged EU 52R (US 42R) this fits closer to a 40R.

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/4

This is absolutely beautiful! Cut from a wonderfully soft and luxurious (yet hard-wearing) blend of cashmere and wool from Loro Piana, the patterning and colourway of this jacket is a wonderfully Italian take on a classic British guncheck: a barleycorn weave with overchecking in early-autumn bracken and burnished chestnut.

Like the fabric it is cut from the jacket is an Italian twist on a British classic with the three button front and twin vents of a hacking jacket, but with a softer cut as befits its Italian origin--although it retains its British military shoulders. The three buttons on each cuff are *just* kissing, and rest on faux buttonholes in the British style. The jacket is darted, fully lined, and half-canvassed. It is in excellent condition, apart from a small ink stain on the inside of one of the interior pockets!

Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

32) BEAUTIFUL Vintage Mavest Jacket in Autumnal Glen Plaid!



NB: You can find a lot more information about Marvest on my Facebook page, WaterhollowTweed!
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c. 40. Measurements:

Chest: 20 7/8
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 30 1/2

Dating from Mavest's heyday during the 1960s, this jacket shows just why they were so successful--and it wasn't just the construction or the price!

The tweed of this jacket is absolutely beautiful; a wonderful autumnal mix of light moss green, rich chestnut, and bracken, on a dark cream base. Lovely! And, as you'd expect from a company that paid careful attention to the cut and construction of its garments the pattern matching on this jacket is meticulous--just look at the craftsmanship that went into making sure that the back of the jacket is so aesthetically pleasing! And, of course, as you'd expect from a jacket whose construction was intended to make it lighter and easier to wear--an effect that was in line with the prevailing Ivy Style--this has very natural shoulders.

The jacket is cut as a two button front jacket with subtle darts, and the (patented) slight curvature at the side seams to provide the jacket with the fullness that would otherwise be secured through full canvassing. The jacket is half-canvassed and half lined, and has a single center vent.

It was originally sold by Strawbridge Clothiers--in the 1960s a more affordable Trad alternative to Langrock and The English Shop. It was made from American wool in the USA. It is in absolutely excellent condition!

Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

33) BEAUTIFUL Vintage 3/2 Tweed Sack from Wm. H. Wanamaker's of Philadelphia.

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Tagged 40R. Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 29 1/2

This is absolutely beautiful! It was made for Wm. H. Wanamaker of Philadelphia--the extremely upscale menswear store that was founded by the brother of John Wanamaker, the founded of Wanamaker's department store in Philadelphia. The maker was Palm Beach--a brand name of the Goodall Co., a Maine-based clothing manufacturer that was founded in 1931, and that started life making very traditional and upscale clothing--as this jacket attests!

Cut as a classic 3/2 sack from beautiful dark brown herringbone tweed with vertical striping in chestnut and pale green lichen, this is fully canvassed and half-lined. It has a single center hook vent and two-button cuffs. It was, of course, Union made in the USA and is in excellent condition!

Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

34) GORGEOUS English hacking jacket in Heavyweight Nailhead Tweed.




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Tagged 46R. Measurements:

Chest: 24 1/2
Sleeve: 26 3/4 (+2 1/8)
Shoulder: 20 3/4
Length: 32 1/8

Made in England by Christopher Dawes Country Clothing.

This is absolutely beautiful! Until it went into receivership in 1998 Christopher Dawes made absolutely first-rate British Country Clothing (they used to supply Harrods with their country clothing for the British upper classes, back when Harrods still served the British upper classes!) and this jacket is a wonderful example of their craft!

The tweed that this jacket is cut from is a traditional heavyweight tweed designed for hard field use. It is also a beautiful and rare nailhead, with burnished chestnut brown and forest green accenting the charcoal and cream base. Absolutely lovely--and utterly British.

The cut and construction do full justice to the cloth. This is a perfect example of a British hacking jacket; slanted hacking pockets, a fully functional (and hacking) ticket pocket, a three button front, a single center vent, and single button cuffs--the giveaway of a truly traditional British country jacket. This jacket also has a fully functional bi-swing back for ease of movement, either when riding horses or tracking grouse across the sky with your shotgun. The jacket is fully canvassed and fully lined, and apart from the tiniest hint of a fray--literally, merely a hint!--in the lining is in absolutely excellent condition.

It was, of course, Made in England, and is just $65, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

35) VINTAGE Anglophile Hacking Jacket from Zachary All of the "Miracle Mile", Los Angeles, Calif.

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(The dappling on the jacket is just evening sunlight filtered through a century-old mulberry tree!)

NB: More information on Zachary All can be found on my Facebook page, WaterhollowTweed!

c. 42, 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/2

A truly lovely jacket, this is modeled on a traditional British hacking jacket, with its twin vents, slanted hacking pockets, slanted (and fully functional) ticket pocket, and wonderful checking and colourway in a medley of bracken, moss green, and lichens!

It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and was Union made in the USA for Zachary Hall--a store founded in the 1950s and that became so famous in Los Angeles for its television commercials that they inspired Frank Zappa's song "Eddie are you kidding?" (Eddie was the owner of the store, and rhetorically asked himself that question on behalf of his friends owing to his low prices!)

This lovely jacket thus carries with it a small part of Los Angeles history. But, more than that, it's a lovely gem of a jacket that is ready to give you many years of tweedy Anglophilic service!

This has some minor wear to the lining, as shown, and could use a dry clean to freshen it up. It is thus in Very Good condition.

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

36) BEAUTIFUL 3/2 sack in blue-grey herringbone tweed by Huntington!



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Tagged 46R. Measurements:

Chest: 24 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 30 1/2

This is wonderful! Cut from a beautiful and unusual blue-grey herringbone tweed this is a classic 3/2 sack from Huntington, one of the great Ivy clothiers. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features all of the Trad desiderata for a 3/2 sack--a lovely liquid lapel roll, a center lapped seam down the back, a single hook vent, lapped seams down the sides, and flapped patch pockets at the front. And, of course, two button cuffs!

It was, of course, Made in the USA--and it is in absolutely excellent condition!

This is a rare larger size, so if this beauty would fit you, I'd advise you to move quickly!

Asking just $49, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

37) Polo University Tweed by Ralph Lauren.

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Union Made in the USA.

c. 40. Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 25 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 29 1/2

This is a lovely tweed from Polo University! Cut from a classic brown herringbone tweed with subtle burnt orange, Spring green, and sky blue overchecking this is a contemporary two-button model with subtle darts. Featuring a single center vent, this is fully lined.

There is a small weave fault on the lapel (there since new!) and a small minor fray in the lining (not there since new!) and so this is in Very Good condition.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

38) BEAUTIFUL Polo "Blue Label" 3/2 unstructured tweed jacket.



Made in Italy.​

Tagged 42R. Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/2

Made in Italy by Corneliani for Polo Blue Label (not to be confused with the regular Polo line!) this lovely unstructured jacket blends the casual elegance of Italian style with the Anglophilia of American Ivy, resulting in a beautifully elegant and utterly wearable tweed!

As you'd expect from Corneliani this is a lovely unstructured tweed cut from a beautifully soft cloth with a wonderful hand and drape. As is appropriate for a more unstructured garment this is quarter-lined (the lining features hand-made pick stitching) and beautifully made. It has very subtle darts at the front, and a wonderfully liquid elongated lapel curve like a breaking wave on the beach of Salento.

The jacket has two open patch pockets and a beautifully slanted patch breast pocket. Apart from some very minor sag to the edges of the interior pockets--which doesn't affect their function at all, and can't be seen when worn--and a small wrinkle on the breast pocket (easily fixed with a press!) this is in absolutely excellent condition.

Costing a fortune when new, this is a bargain at just $65, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

39) Handsome Harris Tweed Jacket in Rare Basketweave!



c.40, 42L. Measurements:
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Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 32

Cut from a lovely classic (and increasingly rare) basketweave Harris Tweed in slate grey, chestnut, bracken, and dark cream, shot through with subtle vertical russet striping, this is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features a single center vent. The buttons are all leather-covered football buttons with metal shanks.

Union made in the USA,this jacket is in absolutely excellent condition--all of the exterior pockets are still based shut!

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

40) VINTAGE Burberry Lambswool Tweed--
--woven in Scotland!​

c. 40R/L. Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 31 3/4

Cut from a lovely soft lambswool cloth that was woven in Scotland, this beautiful wintry-grey Glen Plaid jacket would be perfect for Fall and Winter. With a base plaid of greys the color of Scottish November skies and cold slate overchecked with warm chestnut russet and cool moss, this beautiful jacket is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. Fully lined and half-canvassed, this has a single center vent and three button cuffs.

Originally sold by Renberg's, Tulsa's upscale downtown clothier that was founded in 1913 and finally closed in 1998.

This jacket was Union Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition!

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

22, 34, and 36 are SOLD

 

[tweedydon]

BUMP

 

[tweedydon]

30 is SOLD