Trade my Lost Worlds Suburban 42L grainy 4.5 oz FQHH?

[Carlos840]

Many thanks to deswaaf for the trade.
My LW Suburban is back home after an adventure!

Congrats!
Dibs if you decide she isn't the one...

PS: your old LW J-100 should arrive sometimes next week, can't wait to see it!

 

[sweetfights]

Congrats!
Dibs if you decide she isn't the one...

PS: your old LW J-100 should arrive sometimes next week, can't wait to see it!

I believe you will really like the J100.
In fit but especially the leather. After having had several 4 oz LW jackets direct from Stu I was surprised at the 3oz suppleness. Great leather!

 

[vntg60s]

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Hello @sweetfights,

This is a beautiful jacket. As the original owner of this jacket purchasing from Stu, what is the weight? I’m confused. I’ve followed the various post on this jacket and I’ve read both 4.0 and 4.5 oz. When you order a jacket from Stu does he ask that you specify a range, 4-4.5? 4 plus? Thanks

 

[Carlos840]

Hello @sweetfights,

This is a beautiful jacket. As the original owner of this jacket purchasing from Stu, what is the weight? I’m confused. I’ve followed the various post on this jacket and I’ve read both 4.0 and 4.5 oz. When you order a jacket from Stu does he ask that you specify a range, 4-4.5? 4 plus? Thanks

The weights available from LW are not 100% precisely weighted/measured, they are just hand picked from a big pile of hides...

Usually when i order from Stu i will say 3-3.5oz, or 3.5-4oz or 4-4.5oz or ask for 4.5+/ Full heavy.

In all situations i have noticed slight variations, there is also variation from panel to panel, they use thicker parts of the hide for the back yokes, and the underside of the arm, thinner bits for the collars and lapels, etc. The weight will never be 100% uniform on the entire jacket.

I currently own this Suburban and i would say it is 3.5-4oz, it's thick but no the thickest i have had from LW.
It weighs 7.3lb/3.3kg

For an everyday jacket i would say 3.5 to 4 is a nice weight, 4.5+ is pretty intense, nice on the bike in winter, not much interrest if you don't ride IMO.

 

[vntg60s]

The weights available from LW are not 100% precisely weighted/measured, they are just hand picked from a big pile of hides...

Usually when i order from Stu i will say 3-3.5oz, or 3.5-4oz or 4-4.5oz or ask for 4.5+/ Full heavy.

In all situations i have noticed slight variations, there is also variation from panel to panel, they use thicker parts of the hide for the back yokes, and the underside of the arm, thinner bits for the collars and lapels, etc. The weight will never be 100% uniform on the entire jacket.

I currently own this Suburban and i would say it is 3.5-4oz, it's thick but no the thickest i have had from LW.
It weighs 7.3lb/3.3kg

For an everyday jacket i would say 3.5 to 4 is a nice weight, 4.5+ is pretty intense, nice on the bike in winter, not much interrest if you don't ride IMO.

Ah, got it. Thanks.

What if you take the same jacket, one a 3 oz, the other a 4 oz. Both get tons of wear over the years. Is it difficult to tell visually (not by wear) which is the thicker leather jacket at this point? Is the development of grain a function of wear, thickness of the leather or choice of hide? In other words, do the thicker leathers eventually relax and soften enough to develop the patina, grain and character that the lighter weight leathers develop?

I’m leaning towards a heavier jacket, not crazy heavy. The 3.5-4.0oz at 7 lbs. seems pretty substantial and hefty enough compared to what I normally see in leather jackets.

 

[Carlos840]

Ah, got it. Thanks.

What if you take the same jacket, one a 3 oz, the other a 4 oz. Both get tons of wear over the years. Is it difficult to tell visually (not by wear) which is the thicker leather jacket at this point? Is the development of grain a function of wear, thickness of the leather or choice of hide? In other words, do the thicker leathers eventually relax and soften enough to develop the patina, grain and character that the lighter weight leathers develop?

I’m leaning towards a heavier jacket, not crazy heavy. The 3.5-4.0oz at 7 lbs. seems pretty substantial and hefty enough compared to what I normally see in leather jackets.

Thing is LW do things a bit differently than your average leather jacket maker.
Most makers get front quarter hides, meaning mostly the front shoulders (double shoulder below, but cut in half top to bottom), and the hides have been skived to a mostly even thickness.
Meaning a jacket will be made from leather that has on average the same thickness and comes from the same part of the animal (although different animals, i think it takes 4 to 6 quarters for one jacket)

LW buys their hides in sides, (which is an uncommon way to buy horse hides), meaning they have the front quarters, but also the butt, the back, everything.
On these hides different parts have different thicknesses, different jackets are made with different parts, so you end up with more possible variation in thickness and grain than you would on another maker's jacket.

I have had jacket that had super thick butt pannels on the yoke, some that didn't have any butt on the entire jacket, it really depends on how Fausto felt when he did the cutting and on the style of the jacket, ie they are more likely to use thick butt on a MC jacket than they are on a long coat.
(This is mostly a two man opperation, Fausto does the cutting, stitching, etc, Stuart runs the business and deals with customers.)

Development of grain will depend on the thickness, but also on where on the hide the bit of leather came from.

Areas next to the spine (called the draw i think) are more likely to show motling like this:

Areas cut in the but are more likely to be super smooth and stay that way (the top yoke on this one)

Front quarter is more likely to have randome grain like this:

Grain is less visible on thick leather on a new jacket, but that doesn't mean it won't happen with time.
A Lost Worlds is a bit like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna get.

IMO it's a good idea to start with 3.5-4.0oz, that's already a pretty thick jacket compared to anythign else on the market.

 

[vntg60s]

This is very helpful. Thank you.