Tie length

[adamgottschalk]

In a post in the suits section, Wild Root tells us that a tie, especially a vintage one, is meant to be worn so it hangs above the waist line (not below it, as is the norm these days). I myself did indeed find out what WR says about vintage ties being shorter than modern ones: all 3 1920s ties I got recently are a lot shorter than I've ever had (roughly 48").

Does it not make a difference how long or short your torso is? I'd think a very tall man might look better in a tie hanging pretty low; would a shorter man look better in a shorter tie (and a narrower one)?

Does the width of a tie make a difference as to how long it should be worn? I have a bunch of modern 4" ties and recently find I've acquired a bunch of 2.5" ties (Senator Jack said a person should wear narrower ties with stingier-brimmed hats). And how about hats and lapels. Do they impact what looks good as far as how one wears a tie?

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

I think a lot depends on whether you want to emulate a "period" style or whether you want to wear a tie which is in perfect proportion to your body. Period style vintage ties often don't complement a person's body, just as modern ones often don't.

A tie should reach down long enough to barely touch the waistband of your trousers or belt. Ties used to often be much shorter than this but this was because most men wore vests or waistcoats where you would never see the bottom of the tie anyway. A lot of people in the "golden era" simply wore their ties too short, just as a lot of people today wear them too long.

The width of the tie should be based on the width of the lapels of the suit, which in turn should complement the brim width of your hat. A stingy-brim hat would be worn with a stingy-lapel suit which would be worn with a skinny tie.

 

[shindeco]

I think a lot depends on whether you want to emulate a "period" style or whether you want to wear a tie which is in perfect proportion to your body. Period style vintage ties often don't complement a person's body, just as modern ones often don't.

A tie should reach down long enough to barely touch the waistband of your trousers or belt. Ties used to often be much shorter than this but this was because most men wore vests or waistcoats where you would never see the bottom of the tie anyway. A lot of people in the "golden era" simply wore their ties too short, just as a lot of people today wear them too long.

It definitely depends on what look you're going for but I would say that "proportion" is not an unchanging universal. The modern taste for a longer tie is because of the current fashions; not because of body shape. People think it looks "in proportion" or "out of proportion" because that's what we're 'trained' to think.

It's like colour matching. If you go to Japan and look at some of the colour combinations in traditional Japanese kimono (especially between kimono and the obi [sash]), by Western standards, they "don't go" but that's just because we're 'trained' (culturally) to a different colour aesthetic.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Most modern ties i see only look too long when wearing vintage high-rise trousers. With modern trousers, they look fine. Vintage short tie with modern rise trousers looks just as silly as modern long tie with vintage rise trousers. When wearing a modern tie with high rise trousers you can always just tie an elaborate knot - that'll shorten it significantly. Also, pull out some of the lining from the tie so it's not so d*mn bulky and you're home and dry.

The fact that i'm a short ass makes vintage ties not too short (on me) with modern trousers.

bk

Tie hanging below the waistband - like overly tight trousers - just draws attantion to the crotch. Not my cup of tea.

 

[herringbonekid]

A lot of people in the "golden era" simply wore their ties too short

i've never seen a vintage photograph and thought "that tie looks too short". i think short ties look cool. i wear mine an inch and a half above high waisted trousers. and 2 piece suits were around back then in abundance. not all men, especially not younger men, were wearing waistcoats or sweaters all the time. those shorter ties must have been seen aplenty. i wish i had a photograph at this point to illustrate my ideal tie length but i just can't find one. (i'll keep looking)

 

[Solid Citizen]

Wearing Vintage Swing Ties

Original 1940's SWing Ties:

!. To meet post war demand period rayon
swing ties were cut in mass their overall
length was much shorter than today's ties.

2. They were called belly warmers for good
reason. A standard Windsor Knot would give
you almost no tie at all which is why the
four-in-hand is the way to go.

3. They should fall above your belt not below
secured with a period tie bar/tie chain if so
desired.

sc :arated:

 

[Senator Jack]

The 4" ties are certainly more popular and since I stick to 3" or less, I usually get some pretty good buys on ebay, winning ties for just the opening bid.

My real problem though is that tie length seems to have always been designed for the national height average of 5' 9", - 2" inches more than I stand - so even with a bulky double windsor I might go over the top of the belt buckle a bit. What are you gonna do? Obviously,the question of the short tie is not one that I have to address.

A stingy with a 4"? I've seen it, but it always looks lopsided, like a badly composed picture. (I 've always thought it conveyed the look of the dim-witted but lovable 50s detective - the kind that would drop drop his sandwich during the chase.) Anyone have any pics? It's quite possible I'm wrong on this one.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Stingy tie ...

meets stingy brim:

bk

 

[adamgottschalk]

meets stingy brim:

(images)

bk

With Lady Day no less! Beautiful. Thanks for that. Adam

 

[adamgottschalk]

Lengthening a tie?

My mama just told me she used to make ties for everyone ages ago. She said there's a part right at the back of the tie where pieces of the tie are "cut on the bias" (so the tie will sit flat) and that, in that spot, a person could have a tailor add some material to lengthen the tie a bit. Idea being that this extra material is hidden behind the collar/neck. Anyone ever do such a thing?

 

[David V]

In a post in the suits section, Wild Root tells us that a tie, especially a vintage one, is meant to be worn so it hangs above the waist line (not below it, as is the norm these days). I myself did indeed find out what WR says about vintage ties being shorter than modern ones: all 3 1920s ties I got recently are a lot shorter than I've ever had (roughly 48").

Does it not make a difference how long or short your torso is? I'd think a very tall man might look better in a tie hanging pretty low; would a shorter man look better in a shorter tie (and a narrower one)?

Does the width of a tie make a difference as to how long it should be worn? I have a bunch of modern 4" ties and recently find I've acquired a bunch of 2.5" ties (Senator Jack said a person should wear narrower ties with stingier-brimmed hats). And how about hats and lapels. Do they impact what looks good as far as how one wears a tie?

Just to clairify: Even today, the bottom of the wide end of a tie should end at the top of the pants waistline. There are plenty of pictures from the 30's and 40's of men who have tucked the narrow end of the tie into there pants waist band. The width of the tie is determined by the lapel width of the suit. Ther needs to be a balance.The lapel width is determined by the width of the shoulders and shape of the face.

 

[John in Covina]

Although you will see the short tie in many comical shorts like Laurel & Hardy, the 3 Stooges and Our Gang, your can see that it appeared in everyday life represented by many supporting charactors in film and later on TV. Here are men sans jacket in a suit that would not have had a vest wearing a tie that struggles to get to the top button of their jacket. Mean while having a 20" neck makes most ties kinda short.

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