The style of the suit.

[Wild Root]

Ok ladies and gents, we have talked about a lot of things about suits. A lot about the cut and fit, but what about shoulder pads? Some I have known to buy a 40’s suit and then have the shoulders taken in a little when it fits every where perfectly. I feel that a 40’s suit should look like a 40’s suit and so on. Some times we’ll find a swell looking suit but want to “Make it Fit� your own personal style or making a 40’s suit look and fit like a 30’s suit. I don’t agree with that and I’ll tell you why. If you want to be period in dressing the part, say you want to look 40’s or what ever, try and look at all the photos and catalog clippings you can before you have a suit tailored.

In the early to late 40’s shoulder pads were some what large. Gave a man a broad look up top that tapered down to the waist. In the early 30’s the shoulder pads in suits weren’t as broad. They had narrow shoulders that some times were roped at the sleeve.

Here are a few images for your personal info on the matter. The catalog images are from about 1941 and as you can see how wide the shoulders look compared to the 30’s which I’ll be showing some images soon.

Now, these are the American style and fashion of the period. In the other parts of the world they were close to the same cut, but every country was different in some ways.

Enjoy and compare the differences.

Root.

This one has the roped shoulders that I mentioned. This is from the late 30's or early 40's.

 

[Wild Root]

Now a look at the 30's shoulder cut.

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

Late 30's and 1940's fashions to me are alright, but the built-up shoulder just looks rather odd to me. Of course, I was going to say that those illustrations looked a bit off until I saw the real photo! That man looks like a linebacker, that suit has an insane drop from the shoulders to the waist.

The 1930's suits you have shown, to me, look as if they would be a lot more comfortable to wear, especially on a daily basis.

Here are a few more illustrations I just found that show the earlier cut before the built-up shoulder became popular.

I really like the three-piece golf ensemble with plus-fours and how the jackets all have relatively little padding with the soft rolled lapel.

 

[Wild Root]

Cool images man! As for the guy who looks like a linebacker, that's Bob Hope.

In regards to 30's shoulder pads to 40's broad shoulders in the comfort department, I would say that the 40's suits are more comfortable seeing there is a little more room with the bigger shoulders and well the late 40's suits to me are a little more baggy in the pants and the cut. With the 20's and 30's cut and fit, it's not as roomy as the 40's fit.

Shoulder pads were big in the 40's for what ever reason it was the style. Even in women's clothes more so then in men's suits. I know some here are not keen on the 40's fashion for what ever reason but, I like every thing from the 20's to the early 50's. It stops at the 60's with a screeching halt.

I my self like the big shoulders on the 40's suits because it gives me a bigger appearance and I feel tougher because of it.

Any way, let’s see some more images!

Root.

 

[Chad Sanborn]

The guy in the one pic up top who has his hands touching his shoulders...
Is that Bob Hope?
Also, I like both the 30's and 40's look. The 30's is more casual and the 40's broad shoulder adds a bit more class. Just that little something extra that makes it stand out from the rest. I prefer a more 30's cut. Unless I was going to a reallly fancy place where lots of people would be dressed up. Then I might opt for the 40's shoulder to make me stand out more.

Chad

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

I was watching "Catch Me if you Can" the other day, and just noticed that the late 50's-mid-60's cut really isn't all that bad. The main problem with it is that you must be thin and tall for it to really look good. Of course, the 70's were so horribly bad that they made anything that came before it look good.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Too true...

 

[Wild Root]

Chad, I’m not sure I’m on the same page as you are when you say that the 30’s looked more casual then the 40’s. When I watch 30’s movies, it all looks very classy as the 40’s style does too. And yes, that’s a photo of Bob Hope as I mentioned earlier.

The 20’s and 30’s had some great cuts and styles, they’re more fitted to the figure. The images that Vladimir Berkov posted are from the late teens to early 20’s and were sporting outfits. The look of that early time you had to be skinny to really pull off well.

Wide brimmed fedoras….

Yes, that’s the hat to wear with the broad shoulders of the 40’s and early 50’s! Ah, what a tough look!

Root.

 

[Dr. Shocker]

now I am a huge fan of pads....I agree witht the wide sholder bigger look....but I tend to wear my coats long as it is.....I am also a fan of the slimmer 60's and teens look....i have learned it really depends on the over all look to me and my mood for the day more than a era choice......

 

[Daniel Riser]

I agree with Wild Root about the period pads, although I see nothing wrong with modifying one era to fit the specs of another. Art Fawcett had an awesome deadstock early fifties double breasted suit that was featured in Esquire Magazine, that had about a 1946-1948 cut, and as much as I appreciate the suit for what it is in its raw state I would probably have it taken in so it has more of the hourglass shape, and I would "fix" the shoulders. My favorite forties looks is from 1940-1944. Most of those still had that great thirties cut but with the addition of these very "macho" shoulders. I like the shoulders a lot! I have a double breasted suit from the early forties with these specs and it's one of my favorites!

Wild Root is right. If you're going for an era, don't modify it to fit another era. I have some fifties stuff that people have recommended I modify... Absolutely not, one of my favorites coats is my houndstooth patch pocket early 50's blazer (looks just like Spacey's in the bottom photo) Now that's a great blazer! Looks awesome with darker houndstooth trousers. Now that's a look!

Regards,

Dan

 

[jamespowers]

I like the "So So!" one over the "Yummy!" one. Does that make me wrong?

 

[Kentucky Blues]

I have a double breasted suit from the early forties with these specs and it's one of my favorites!

Is that the one from the Queen Mary photos (this past queen mary)?

 

[jamespowers]

Here are a few images that I manged to scare up from a 1942 catalog:

Man I love those shoes!

and let's not forget the women:

Regards to all,

J

 

[Daniel Riser]

Darrel,

Yes it is the same one I wore to the Queen Mary. I'm actually liquidating that suit. Get ready for my trip to France. Hopefully I'll come back with a DOUBLE BREASTED 44 LONG BELTED BACK SUIT FOR WILDROOT SO I CAN HAVE HIS DANG THREE PIECE HE'S PROMISED ME IN TRADE!!!!!

with that subtle (but effective) hint said... It's a great look, and it's a great suit!

God Bless

 

[Wild Root]

JP, I love those images! This is my fave!

Yes, let's not forget the ladies!

Oh Dan, if you find a doulbe breasted belted suit, I think you would be crazy to trad it for my old 30's BORING three piece that only an old banker would wear. I mean hey, I don't even wear it.

Root.

 

[Daniel Riser]

Oh Wildroot you definitely didn't see me in my three piece on Saturday at the expo. I was wearing a dark brown late thirties three piece, notched lapel, not belt, no nothing. Just your everyday run-of-the-mill ahem... banker suit. I happen to love the three piece single. Now if I find a belted back singel breasted (peaked lapel) with wide legged trousers, then I may not be so keen on wearing the "boring-banker's-suit" but we'll see... I'm hoping Jose' was telling the truth about the wealth of vintage in Paris! Lauren and I can't wait! and believe me if it is true we will have the COOLEST booth in October at the expo... but...

My offer still stands. I am devoted to finding a belted back double breasted suit for you in a 44 long. What about a 46 reg and have it taken in?

Kindest Regards,

Dan

 

[Wild Root]

I see Dan, well, a 46 Reg wouldn't do the trick at all. It will be to big for one thing, and then it will be too short! I need it to be long so I don't look like a man in a short man's suit.

I'm kind of stuck on my old three piece seeing I have had it for so long but, we'll see what you find in France and I'll think about letting the old girl go out of moth balls.

Root.

 

[jamespowers]

Pardon me fellas but a 46 regular would work for me and I don't care if I would have to have it taken in.
WR, I liked that photo as well. It has that posed look but the suits and pipe say it all.
Is the woman wearing cloth gloves or kid gloves in that photo you posted?

Regards to all,

J

 

[jamespowers]

I found a few more contrast photos of 1927 suits that I thought you might be interested in seeing. I am only going to post a few. If you wan tto see the rest, let me know. I don't want to flood this thread with photos.
Here they are:

and, of course, the woman:

 

[jamespowers]

I've noticed that all the men's head in the (especially 1940s) ads appear to be TINY because the darn suits are so broad....

That is why you wear a wide brim hat. Kind of levels out the look. Actually, you have to be careful when viewing the prints because they are slightly stylized. Look more to the picture of Bob Hope in that suit. His head doesn't look all that small---then again he could have had a size 6 7/8 head and that would explain it.
Let's see I think I have a few more 1940 prints:

Their heads don't look all that small.

The first guy in this picture has a small head but the second guy doesn't. By the way, I have included the opposing page with fabric samples. I hope it doesn't post too large.


Regards to all,

J