The shortest cafe racer jacket

[Oakbark]

Hi all,
I'm looking for a cafe racer leather jacket and I won't mention here any specs about type of leather, brands etc, cause what I really need is first of all to find a very short model.
I'm just 5,67 feet tall and a bit muscled for my height; anyway I like to dress up slim cause it makes my silhouette slimmer and taller.
I found out that most of the leather jackets measurements I see online are too long for my height and for the way I like to dress;
For instance, my chest is 40.94 in, shoulders 18,50 in, and all the short jackets I own (that I like) have a back lenght in this range ( 22.04 / 22.44 / 22.83/ 23.22 inches ).
Anything longer than the last measurement do not fit me well...and I still own jackets longer than that measurement, but are locked in my closet and never returned to the store cause of the expiring of return term.
I like the jacket to hang up a bit instead of cover my jeans' waist and my upper butt.
I was wondering if anyone here could advice me for some cafe racer jacket in a short lenght that could match with my other body measurements I've given above.
Just to give a clue about the way I like the jacket to fit, here some pics:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/56/1d/a6/561da62fc83dc776cee2bd0f27f5caf5.jpg

https://media1.popsugar-assets.com/...0265/i/Cute-Photos-Jason-Momoa-Lisa-Bonet.jpg

http://www4.pictures.zimbio.com/gi/Lisa+Bonet+Jason+Momoa+Screening+Sundance+kJonxhAA5adl.jpg

http://ll-media.tmz.com/2012/12/09/1209-jennifer-aniston-justin-theroux-x17-3.jpg

http://cdn04.cdn.justjared.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/aniston-renovations/jennifer-
aniston-&-justin-theroux-bel-air-house-renovations-02.jpg


I know some models are a bit elongated to the back, having a bit of tail, so the back lenght is longer than the actual cut of the front jacket: in these cases I would refer to the front lenght

Any advice for brands and models will be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Harris HTM]

Custom jacket (regarding back and sleeve length) is the solution. Check Aero.

 

[Blackadder]

If off the rack, there is the Vanson Comet or there are all those that do custom made to measure like Aero, Diamond Dave, Simmons Bilt, Thedi, Langlitz, Cal-Leather etc. I would however start with the Vanson Comet or any established short racer pattern. The result may surprise you if say to simply take any cafe racer pattern like a Buco J-100 and go on to shorten it. I think a fellow lounger asked Dave to do that and he ended up ordering another original pattern J-100 and selling the shortened J-100 (supposedly Buco also had a short cafe racer model called the J-57 that is similar to a J-100 but that's hardly the same).

 

[Fanch]

First, welcome to the Lounge. Second, where do you live? If you live in N America, your best bet would be to contact Thurston Bros / Insurrection in Seattle to give your sizing information and request a fit jacket to remove all of the guesswork.

Personally I found that certain Aero patterns work best for my tall, sticklike frame, specifically their 1930's halfbelts with 27" sleeves and their Cafe Racer / Sheene with 1" added to each side panel and also 27" sleeves. Their 1950's halfbelt and Highway patterns don't work as well (too big in the torso), and their Board Racer and Premier patterns would probably take quite a bit of tweaking. Anyhow, hopefully this information might help.

 

[El Marro]

If off the rack, there is the Vanson Comet or there are all those that do custom made to measure like Aero, Diamond Dave, Simmons Bilt, Thedi, Langlitz, Cal-Leather etc. I would however start with the Vanson Comet or any established short racer pattern. The result may surprise you if say to simply take any cafe racer pattern like a Buco J-100 and go on to shorten it. I think a fellow lounger asked Dave to do that and he ended up ordering another original pattern J-100 and selling the shortened J-100 (supposedly Buco also had a short cafe racer model called the J-57 that is similar to a J-100 but that's hardly the same).

+1
Check out the Vanson Comet first because it is a shorter cafe racer that you could buy off the rack if the numbers look right. Vanson posts jacket measurements for all of their models on their website. If you decide you need to go custom I think Blackadder gave a pretty complete list of the premium makers who would be able to make you a jacket with your measurements. I would Himel to the list, his work is second to none. Good luck and welcome to the lounge!

 

[Monitor]

I love it how beat up the jackets look even tho these extremely rich people probably haven't worn one twice...

Anyway, in all likelihood, Momoa is wearing a Harley Davidson Sportster and that's a Fidelity on Theroux - which is what you should be after. Fidelit...ies? Fidelity CR's are short, I can tell you that much. 22" to 23" in the back. Most other vintage CR's are longer than that, 'round 25" or more. So, Fidelity is what you need. Luckily, they go for about $100 a pop or less and they're quality jackets. Sportster is a rare beast and will usually fetch a good price but it's also a shorter styled CR, tho rarely under 24".

As for the contemporary makers, what others have suggested; Vanson Comet is a really short jacket, 21" to 22" back in a size 40. Other than that, you'd have to go full custom but I honestly don't see the point if it's just the short jacket you're after. eBay should take care of that.

Ton, Technovox and Proteinerd will shed some more light on the subject.

And Lisa Bonet has got to be the most beautiful human being I've ever seen in my life...

 

[ton312]

Agreed with everything posted above. Especially about Lisa! Custom route is going to let you pick the desired length and I believe the Vanson comet off the rack is around 22"-23". At your height I think you are an ideal candidate for a comet and I believe a member @mendelboaz has or had one for sale in the classifieds.

 

[Bjorn240]

Vanson Comet and Vanson Star would be the shortest stock jackets. About 21" bottom of collar to hem in size 40.

 

[lina]

The Lost Worlds cafe racer is pretty short as I recall...

 

[Seb Lucas]

Personal preferences aside, I would have thought that a very short fitting jacket on a short person makes them look shorter. I have certainly heard tailors advise smaller men that a little length in a jacket accentuates height and draws the eye to a vertical line.

 

[sweetfights]

The Lost Worlds cafe racer is pretty short as I recall...

Yes- The Lost Worlds Easy Ryder is not styled very long.

 

[opiusmaximus]

Check out Vansons offering. A lot of their cafe racers are short as hell. You can call and get exact measurements for each style I think prior to purchase. Very high quality and short.

 

[Oakbark]

Oh....long life to Thefedoralounge and its members, thank you all, very appreciated and my apologies for my late reply, I couldn't imagine to find people as you are giving precious advices in such short time, thank you.

Vanson Comet really look a valid choice, looking at the measurements on their website, I see my size could have a 22 or 22,50 inches for the back lenght, that's amazing, though I've found on ebay an user selling a jacket on the size but saying the back lenght is 24 inches.
I'll contact Vanson for a detailed info about the back lenght.

@Fanch, @El Marro Thanks for welcoming me. I'm located in Italy, so I guess I've to do my homeworks well cause I can't try them on if I will end up with one of those brands

@Blackadder Some brands you said are new for me, thank you:
The Diamond Dave Buco J-100 has that elongated front part below the zipper as many other cafe racers so I get why that fellow wanted to shorten it if his aim was to have a short jacket: it all depends on the original lenght but I've a well trained eye on this subject and I'm quite sure it would be too long for me or at least for the way I'd like.
Btw seems quite easy to alter it.

Also the SImmons Bilt jacket look a couple of inches longer than the Vanson Comet: the positive thing is that already on their website they offer an alteration service especially for lenght and arms, ( very good ) though the collar band does not seems to the best one.

@Monitor I was going mad to find any info about Momoa jacket, but it was full on pinterest no sense info and replica website. That jacket looks amazing, but now that I've googled a bit on that jacket I see that it's quite long as most of other cafe racers jackets; it's just depends on Momoa that is very very tall, look at how the jacket run short on him
Regarding Theroux's jacket I'm writing down the brand you say ( fidelity ), never heard before, but it looks great for the few pics I saw.
Btw I'm not sure Theroux is wearing a Fidelity jacket in that pic I uploaded before, which is this following one:

http://ll-media.tmz.com/2012/12/09/1209-jennifer-aniston-justin-theroux-x17-3.jpg

I've got another pic of him wearing that jacket, well some pics actually:
https://media.gq.com/photos/55835f3...yle-blogs-the-gq-eye-justin-thereoux-hair.jpg

There is a little skull and bones pin close to the zipper in the upper part above the pocket chest: it's the logo of a brand called Mastermind Japan.
I also found a website where is stated he's wearing that brand, the pin is still there, even if the jacket looks a bit longer while the arms look tighter
http://www.upscalehype.com/2017/04/...g-mastermind-japan-jacket-and-eazy-e-t-shirt/


@ton312 nice find that classified, thank you

@Bjorn240 I hope at least 22,50 inches for the size 40 as I saw on their website

@Seb Lucas I got what you mean and what you've heard from tailors; it worths especially when talking about suits. The jacket should always cover the buttocks as a thumb rule and it's even more adviced to short persons that usually think to shorten the jacket in order to make the bottom part of the body longer.
Still talking about suits what you want to avoid is to create two squares in your figure: the upper part and the bottom part splitted by the jacket cut in the in the middle of the figure. It's the same reason why suits should be without belt loops, ( meaning no belt for suits) as it cuts in 2 parts the silhouette.
It's all true but nowdays the leg opening at the ankles for trousers can be a bit more narrow than in the past, so it's a matter of proportions:
-large trousers with short jacket make you look shorter
-a bit slim trousers with a bit shorter jacket make you look taller and keep in mind a suit is just one color, so you're not breaking the vertical line and the leg will be 2/3 of the entire figure ( as it should be ).

While now, talking about casual street style, just let's try to imagine a light trousers color or light jeans with a long type of cafe racer jacket
In this case you're not cutting the figure in the middle, but you're making your legs look even shorter than they actually are cause the upper part of your body look longer now with a cafe racer long version jacket.
I hope I've described well my point

@opiusmaximus Vanson says some of their styles share the same measurements, so they have an unique board size, that's why I'd prefer to contact them, just to be sure on the exact model I'm looking for.

@lina @sweetfights
the Lost Worlds Ryder looks great with that one pocket chest.


Thanks again everybody

 

[AeroFan_07]

Nice that you got some good help, and welcome as well!

I onwed a Vanson Comet that was historically too short for me, I sold it and sometimes still wish I had kept it. Try them, you will like the results...

 

[Peacoat]

With the model's T-shirt untucked, it is difficult for me to tell where you like for the jacket to end in relation to the belt. Above the belt, at the belt or an inch below the belt?

 

[Monitor]

@Oakbark - The skull and crossbone pin on his jacket is something he must've either added himself or could be he bought this jacket from those Japanese guys who added it themselves. Makers sometimes decorate and sell vintage jackets as well but the jacket he's wearing on the photos you linked to, one with the "A" patch on the sleeve, is a Fidelity. He's wearing that same jacket in the Inland Emipre film.

Here are two that are virtually identical to the jacket he's wearing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ORI...s-BOSTON-FIDELITY-BLACK-SIZE-40-/222636705841
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Cowhide...-Biker-Jacket-Brown-Vintage-NOS-/122525715830

That other jacket is something new, no doubt.

 

[Seb Lucas]

That's a very well thought out and considered response, Oak. Whatever you choose, good luck. You are about the same hight as Fonzie from "Happy Days" so finding a leather jacket that looks OK should be possible.

 

[eugenesque]

I'm about the same height as you at 5 feet 7 and I prefer shorter cropped jackets with a slimmer fit. But I try to avoid jackets which are too short or cropped because they may emphasise my shortness. I have a custom aero board racer where I shortened the length and I'm quite pleased with the result. You can see my post here.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-custom-aero-board-racer.91283/

 

[Oakbark]

@Peacoat , above the belt or at the belt would be fine for me and you're right, with the t-shirt untucked it's hard to spot the proportions:
it's something I see everywhere now, untucked t-shirt and leather jacket, which is just fine, but for short guys it doesn't work that same way, cause our legs are shorter than taller guys obviously

@Monitor , then I will trust you for sure: I'm definitely not an expert
That Fidelity on ebay looks very good: I was wondering about the thickness of this brand, even if, that specific one looks like butter now, but talking about brands' thickness differences, which one would be thicker between Vanson and Fidelity?

@eugenesque , the jacket looks good on you; regarding me I'm too much nit-picker sometimes; probably I wouldn't like that lenght on me :/