The long quest of finding a fitted leather jacket

[Stuart1991]

Good evening,

First of all: thanks for having me, appreciate being here

I just recently got into higher quality leather jackets and spent quite some time on researching the history and material.

The past years I‘ve consistently worn cheaper brands like tigha (fashion brand from Germany). They don’t necessarily have bad quality, but the jackets came apart after 1-2 years of heavy wear.

The main reason I kept buying them was the fit.

Which leads to my question to the community:

I‘m a 6‘3, 185 pounds swimmer type.
So my chest and shoulders are really broad (not round, rather elyptical due to strong lats) compared to my waist and hips. On top of that I also have ape like arms and a shortish torso compared to my leg-length.

Some Measurement (naked)

42,5 inch chest (flat)
31,5 inch waist
33 inch hip (belt-height)

The last jacket I bought - which really fit like a glove, had the following measures

19 inch shoulders
22 inch chest
20 inch waist
19,25 inch bottom opening
26,75 inch back length
26,5 arm length

Are there any brands or models in particular - that would compare to these quite tapered measures or is anyone out there with a similar stature who could share some experience?

The search has been quite time consuming and Up to now I shied away from a custom order - based on the feedback of the community I’d ofc also consider looking into one made especially for me - but let’s see, what you guys can share.

Appreciate all info

Greetings from Germany

 

[Al 916]

Good evening,

First of all: thanks for having me, appreciate being here

I just recently got into higher quality leather jackets and spent quite some time on researching the history and material.

The past years I‘ve consistently worn cheaper brands like tigha (fashion brand from Germany). They don’t necessarily have bad quality, but the jackets came apart after 1-2 years of heavy wear.

The main reason I kept buying them was the fit.

Which leads to my question to the community:

I‘m a 6‘3, 185 pounds swimmer type.
So my chest and shoulders are really broad (not round, rather elyptical due to strong lats) compared to my waist and hips. On top of that I also have ape like arms and a shortish torso compared to my leg-length.

Some Measurement (naked)

42,5 inch chest (flat)
31,5 inch waist
33 inch hip (belt-height)

The last jacket I bought - which really fit like a glove, had the following measures

19 inch shoulders
22 inch chest
20 inch waist
19,25 inch bottom opening
26,75 inch back length
26,5 arm length

Are there any brands or models in particular - that would compare to these quite tapered measures or is anyone out there with a similar stature who could share some experience?

The search has been quite time consuming and Up to now I shied away from a custom order - based on the feedback of the community I’d ofc also consider looking into one made especially for me - but let’s see, what you guys can share.

Appreciate all info

Greetings from Germany

Welcome.

you do not have any measurements that should stop you finding a good quality off the shelf jacket. Particularly if you like riding jackets the arm length will not be a problem.

What styles do you favour? and I / we can suggest some brands and models.

 

[Monitor]

Hey. Despite your height, seems to me you are a fairly standard 42 so you ought to be good with most brands we talk about here. Sleeve length is pretty much the only thing you ought to mind. What Al says, show us some of the jackets you like and let's see what can be done.

 

[Stuart1991]

from the past experience classic, trim cafe racer styles with a standing collar suit my built best.
Whilst I also really enjoy asymmetric perfecto styles, they put too much emphasis on my upper body and are usually too short. But if you have model that would not exaggerate on the typical „broadness“ of the flaps, I’d ofc consider these as well

 

[Al 916]

Have a look at Vanson Model B jackets.

or Aero Leathers Cafe Racer

Monitor is likely more your build and has / had many of this style that fit him extremely well

 

[Stuart1991]

The Vanson looks really nice - thanks. What’s the leather called? Will look into

 

[Will Zach]

A Lounger @MrProper is tall with athletic physique and his jackets are fitted and look awesome - sorry to call him out like that , but I bet he'll have great suggestions.

 

[bolted]

AI 916,
I was curious if you re-read this and see this inquiry, is your second pic.

Aero Leathers Cafe Racer-

I do not doubt you know.
Is that a natural finish?
Pallister?

Thanks!

 

[Stuart1991]

A Lounger @MrProper is tall with athletic physique and his jackets are fitted and look awesome - sorry to call him out like that , but I bet he'll have great suggestions.

great suggestion!

In another thread I read about buying a stock jacket that fits in the shoulders and chest and having it altered afterwards. The quite strong drop of 9,5 (or even 10 inch when inhaled) is something most makers cannot consider in their usual sizes I guess. Any recommendations on taylors (maybe in Europe )?

 

[Al 916]

AI 916,
I was curious if you re-read this and see this inquiry, is your second pic.

I do not doubt you know.
Is that a natural finish?
Pallister?

Thanks!

It is a medium weight HH with an unusual finish, slightly suede on the unworn areas moving toward normal HH finish. I did chat with Aero about it and they said it is older hide however pretty much unworn (I must start wearing it after this cold patch).

I think @ton312 had one in this hide once, any thoughts Ton?

Not sure what Pallister is?

 

[TartuWolf]

great suggestion!

In another thread I read about buying a stock jacket that fits in the shoulders and chest and having it altered afterwards. The quite strong drop of 9,5 (or even 10 inch when inhaled) is something most makers cannot consider in their usual sizes I guess. Any recommendations on taylors (maybe in Europe )?

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/help-needed-zipper-replacement-eu.112499/#post-3047119

 

[Edward]

Some folks have ordered jacket direct from Aero in the past with a tapered fit if they have an unusually high chest to waist drop, which is worth considering.

A good place to start imo would be seeking out a few brands you like the look of (check out the threads on here, also worth looking at manufacturers' websites), then from there once you have an idea of what sort of style you're after you can narrow it down. In terms of the Aero range certainly if you want something that tapers, I'd be looking at their pre-war designs. Worth thinking about the fit you're after: an Aero MC jacket is very neat on the waist, wider on the shoulders. Historically accurate (it's the look Brando sported in the Wild One, which inspired that jacket), but if you want a neater fit all over, a different model might be the ticket.

 

[Brandrea33]

From your description, I’d have a look at The Flat Head. Their Single Riders jacket has wide shoulders, and long arms.

 

[Stuart1991]

Thanks for all the input on my (now multiple) questions - appreciate all of and consider them.
@Edward: Exactly what I did and I came up, that either a small amount of models would be proper - and finding all would open another quest...or considering straight(er) fits with broad shoulders/chests with a half belt.
So I narrowed the field down to jackets fullfilling the marks of a cafe racer with half belt charcateristics.
Like this one https://www.stuf-f.com/neuheiten/2246/y-2-leather-vintage-horse-single-riders-black-hr-41 or (thanks @Brandrea33) Flat Head single riders. although the prices really hurt :-/

 

[TartuWolf]

I'd definitely consider giving a Vanson Model B a shot. Can be easily found from Japan for 200-300eu - seems like their market is overflooded with this model.