Are there things to avoid when purchasing a suit or other apparel when one is shorter than the average? I don't mean something like jacket length, rather anything from the pattern to the width or height of the lapel? At 167cm/5'6 the last thing I need is to look shorter.
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Suits for the Short of Stature.
- Thread starter LordBest
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Torpedo
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I would say horizontal lines are decidedly a no-no. Granted, horizontal lines are not common in suits, but patterns that have horizontal lines in them, like a windowpane or plaid pattern, if not subtle, could be unflattering too. I have read that any kind of pattern should be avoided, as opposed to wearing solid colours, but I find this too extreme.
This applies also to design features; for instance, in peaked lapel jackets, avoid those with the cut parallel to ground.
Vertical lines are recommended, unless you are very thin (because then your thinness would be emphasized, too), as are other stylizing design features; let's say, in a double breasted jacket, it is preferable to have closer set button rows.
There are many more recommendations, among them: fitted clothing is more favourable than loose. A one or two (or two and a half) button jacket is preferable to a three button. SB jackets are preferred over DB ones. Jacket skirt should be long enough to cover your seat, and no more. Trouser turn-ups are to be avoided, as are low-waist trousers. Braces better than belt. A suit is better than a jacket with odd trousers.
I am on the smaller side, too, at 170 cm. I do believe part of the above is sensible, and certainly logical, while some is debatable, and, as always, guidelines can be successfully broken sometimes, if properly done. Humphrey Bogart, for one, was not tall, but wore DB suits handsomely.
This applies also to design features; for instance, in peaked lapel jackets, avoid those with the cut parallel to ground.
Vertical lines are recommended, unless you are very thin (because then your thinness would be emphasized, too), as are other stylizing design features; let's say, in a double breasted jacket, it is preferable to have closer set button rows.
There are many more recommendations, among them: fitted clothing is more favourable than loose. A one or two (or two and a half) button jacket is preferable to a three button. SB jackets are preferred over DB ones. Jacket skirt should be long enough to cover your seat, and no more. Trouser turn-ups are to be avoided, as are low-waist trousers. Braces better than belt. A suit is better than a jacket with odd trousers.
I am on the smaller side, too, at 170 cm. I do believe part of the above is sensible, and certainly logical, while some is debatable, and, as always, guidelines can be successfully broken sometimes, if properly done. Humphrey Bogart, for one, was not tall, but wore DB suits handsomely.
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I'll Lock Up
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DBs are good for smaller guys...I am 1.73cm. 6x1 DBs are the best.
donCarlos
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I read that it´s good to have slightly shorter jacket (the skirt, not the sleeves), to make your legs look longer.
Chrome
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After seeing those photos I'm more than happy when I discarded pathetic advices of stylists 
I'm not short (5'10") but I'm thin and really love double breasted pinstripes. I stopped caring those advices after some ladies stopped to say I look great lol
I think that best is to wear what you like and wear it with confidence, all great men aren't tall or athletic and why should ideal body be?
I'm not short (5'10") but I'm thin and really love double breasted pinstripes. I stopped caring those advices after some ladies stopped to say I look great lol I think that best is to wear what you like and wear it with confidence, all great men aren't tall or athletic and why should ideal body be?
cptjeff
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The key for me in dressing, being a short guy, is to have presence. I'm 5'6", so nothing is going to make me look tall. I'm a pretty slim guy too, think Elijah Wood with wider shoulders. Nothing is going to make me look that physically imposing.
So you have to dress in a way that makes people look at you, and not your height. Double breasted suits are a good way to do that. Fedoras do that. Most any style can have the effect, but you have to put it together very well. The big catch: you gotta wear fitted stuff. Your height will be most obvious if you wear loose clothing, it looks like you're a kid playing dressup. That cuts out a lot of the baggy 40's stuff loved on this site. Some great looks, but for short guys it just doesn't work.
Clean lines, fitted silhouettes. And don't hang around basketball players.
So you have to dress in a way that makes people look at you, and not your height. Double breasted suits are a good way to do that. Fedoras do that. Most any style can have the effect, but you have to put it together very well. The big catch: you gotta wear fitted stuff. Your height will be most obvious if you wear loose clothing, it looks like you're a kid playing dressup. That cuts out a lot of the baggy 40's stuff loved on this site. Some great looks, but for short guys it just doesn't work.
Clean lines, fitted silhouettes. And don't hang around basketball players.
Drew B
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Tomasso said:Here's the DB answer for the height challenged. The DoW was 5'6" (168 cm).
fftopic: Sorry guys but this image made me crack up. Such a nicely dressed gent holding a large quantity of asparagus just makes me chuckle.I can't really say much as far as what suits to wear but a good posture and confidence goes a long way. I know people who are short (myself included) but no-one ever thinks of them as small simply because they have a confident personality and a good posture.
Just my 2c
Cheers,
Drew.
Marc Chevalier
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Drew B said:
That's all the man was good for. lol
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Carlisle Blues
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Marc Chevalier said:
So my Grandfather has said...
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Marc Chevalier said:
That and a bit of collaborating....lol
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Being 5' 6" myself, I take it from the Duke and wear whatever I want. Just feel comfortable and appear confident.
2-button vs. 3-button or SB vs. DB doesn't really make much of a difference. I wear all four proudly. With cuffs even. As always, just make sure it fits.
2-button vs. 3-button or SB vs. DB doesn't really make much of a difference. I wear all four proudly. With cuffs even. As always, just make sure it fits.
Drew B
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It appears I am missing something. Who is this DoW man, he looks a little familiar but I don't know who he is. Is he a prominant American figure? An asparagus merchant of great success? Please, ease my troubled mind.
Cheers,
Drew.
Cheers,
Drew.
lolly_loisides
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Marc Chevalier said:
Yes, wasn't it shocking that the first in line to the British royal crown went and married a divorced woman? Scandalous! It wouldn't happen nowadays.......:eusa_doh:
His Royal Highness The Duke of Windsor, briefly His Majesty King Edward VIII of Great Britain, Ireland and the British Dominions beyond the Seas King, Defender of the Faith, Emperor of India.
Nice to know he was no taller than myself, I shall bear it in mind when choosing clothes.
Nice to know he was no taller than myself, I shall bear it in mind when choosing clothes.
Drew B said:
Drew B
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Oh... Pretty important guy for me to miss out on! So thanks.
Cheers,
Drew.
Cheers,
Drew.
BinkieBaumont
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Edward Fox in the mini series "Wallis & Edward"
Drew B said:
To me, from now on, he shall always be both of these things, I hope you don't mind.
As a very short person (at five foot even I look up to all the short people posting in this thread thus far) I would say double breasted would vary depending on whether you are short and thin or short and broad chested.
And its not a clearcut rule; many men would be somewhere on the middle of the spectrum where it would be down to the cut of the individual suit for whether you look attractively well-built or like you are a big man missing your legs, the Basset Hound affect if you will.
Can't stress the avoidance of generally bagginess enough, though.
