Suggestions for a custom white suit.

[Matt Crunk]

I'm thinking of having a vintage style white suit custom tailored for myself for summer and would like suggestions on fabric, weight, style, etc. All I'm sure of at this point is I want it to be a white (off white) three piece with a vintage fit. The classic Southern Gentleman look is what I'm going for. Mark Twain, not Boss Hogg.

-MC

 

[DerMann]

You'll probably want linen, as it is the traditional summer fabric. I have a sportcoat in a 55%/45% linen/rayon blend which feels a bit softer than pure linen, but doesn't wrinkle nearly as much.

Although seersucker is a viable option (not white however), and one doesn't see many articles of clothing made from seersucker these days (it'd definitely attract attention).

 

[Tomasso]

I'm thinking of having a vintage style white suit custom tailored for myself for summer

I don't know what your tailors turnaround is, but you are certainly running very late for a Summer suit. [huh] That said, LINEN!!!!

 

[Fletch]

And try to get a fairly heavy weight linen. The usual stuff, unfortunately, is tissuey-thin and won't drape or resist rumpling for more than a few minutes.

If it were me, I'd ask for a peak lapel, 2 button single-breasted with welted edges, patch pockets, and a shirred beltback. The trou would be straight-leg, broad, and deeply cuffed (pleats or not? up to you), and the vest would have no lapels, 4 pockets and 6 buttons.

This adds up to a classic 1930s style that you couldn't find ready-made at any price today.

 

[thunderw21]

If it were me, I'd ask for a peak lapel, 2 button single-breasted with welted edges, patch pockets, and a shirred beltback. The trou would be straight-leg, broad, and deeply cuffed (pleats or not? up to you), and the vest would have no lapels, 4 pockets and 6 buttons.

Wow, Fletch, you read my mind. Pleats with mine, please.

 

[Fletch]

I don't know what your tailors turnaround is, but you are certainly running very late for a Summer suit. [huh]

I know your insistence on the highest quality, Tomasso, so I guess you mean that any tailor who doesn't have at least 4 months backlog doesn't have a good enough reputation to bother with. (???)

 

[cookie]

I'm thinking of having a vintage style white suit custom tailored for myself for summer and would like suggestions on fabric, weight, style, etc. All I'm sure of at this point is I want it to be a white (off white) three piece with a vintage fit. The classic Southern Gentleman look is what I'm going for. Mark Twain, not Boss Hogg.

-MC

I am sorry I cannot temporarily access the suit pix of exactly what you want but I may be able to find 'em soon. Maybe Magnoli could run you up something from his now extensive ideas book...

 

[Jovan]

I personally would love a two button single breasted with wide peak lapels for a white linen suit. Don't know if I'd do a waistcoat, but ultimately everyone must decide to what degree they suffer for style.

 

[Fletch]

You could do a backless vest, like with tails. Or one with a light cotton back instead of satin.

 

[Matt Crunk]

Actually, I was thinking of trying one of those online tailors that have been mentioned on this forum.

By the way, this suit will not only be used as street attire, but will serve double duty as stagewear for a vintage roadshow-style musical act I'll be performing with occasionally (not as Elvis).

Below is picture I found in another thread that seems close to what I have in mind (although I'm more "stoutly built" than this fellow). I like the single breasted, peaked lapel look, as well as the higher waistband and shorter six button vest.

 

[Tomasso]

I know your insistence on the highest quality, Tomasso, so I guess you mean that any tailor who doesn't have at least 4 months backlog doesn't have a good enough reputation to bother with. (???)

You either have little experience with the tailoring biz or you are attempting to brand me elitist . I'm thinkin' the later.

 

[Fletch]

I apologize for any unfortunate overtones. But you know, sometimes "elitism" is just the facts - there is never, ever, enough good craftsmanship to go around. You'll wait for it and you'll pay for it, and if not - there may be a good reason.

What it is is, I'm a rank n00b. I've never had anything made from scratch beyond blueberry muffins. I yoyo +/- 2" between sizes, and for some reason (possibly neuropsychological)I can't communicate with tailors worth a damn.

 

[CharlestonBows]

Ironic!...

I'm actually in the process of having one done for myself. A customer got one, and I just couldn't resist. (Mine's a 2 button, side vented, notch - pretty standard).

The fabric is a linen / wool blend, which provides the requisite light weight and breathability of linen, but provides the performance and wrinkle-resistance of a light weight worsted. I'm a huge fan of it for the summer, having a few pairs of trousers made up last summer. I would highly recommend the blend if you can find it.

It worked very nicely in the Bahamas and St. Thomas, and it works well around here. Being in Charleston, you become quickly acquainted with the hot and humid summers - and I wear a coat & tie everyday in it. With summer bearing down, I'm looking forward to the suit!

 

[cookie]

The fabric is a linen / wool blend, which provides the requisite light weight and breathability of linen, but provides the performance and wrinkle-resistance of a light weight worsted. I'm a huge fan of it for the summer, having a few pairs of trousers made up last summer. I would highly recommend the blend if you can find it.

I notice that Landsend has used linen/wool combos. Sounds interesting for a suiting material.