Stetson 3X Mode Edge

[jimmy the lid]

This one comes from the Stetson factory store at 1224 Chestnut Street. Hats sold at this location had the date of purchase stamped on the back side of the sweat -- this one is dated October 2, 1952. This 3X felt has a medium thickness, but is still very light and just incredibly soft and malleable. The color is really a beautiful shade of gray. The brim is 2 1/2" wide, and the ribbon is a tad over 1 3/4". I think of this one as my "Bogey" hat.

A couple of observations...

First, this is the only Stetson Mode Edge that I have ever seen close up. My impression is that the Mode Edge is more subtle and understated than other examples of this kind of edge treatment -- a Cavanagh edge, or Dobbs Guild Edge, for example. In other words, there seems to be less of a lip on the edge itself. Anyone out there who has hats with these different edges -- would you agree with this observation generally? Perhaps Brad Bowers has some views on this, as well.

Secondly, this is the first vintage Stetson I have come across with this particular sort of liner protector -- rather than covering the entire top of the liner, the plastic protection is smaller, and simply forms a kind of protective shield around the Stetson 3X logo. Anyone else have this kind of liner protector? I'm wondering how common this feature was, and when it was used on Stetson hats.

Note: the Stetson hat box is an older one, but did not come with the hat...

Cheers,
JtL

 

[DOUGLAS]

Looks great JtL.

 

[billysmom]

Here's a shot of my Stetson 20 Mode Edge. It is very subtle.

And a Knox Custom Edge:

This one's more defined.

Simply gorgeous hat, JtL!

Sue

 

[Aureliano]

Beautiful hat Jimmy! did you use a block to shape the crown? if not, how did you do that bash? I'd lke to put it in one of my tall crowned Borsalinos.

 

[ScottF]

This one comes from the Stetson factory store at 1224 Chestnut Street. Hats sold at this location had the date of purchase stamped on the back side of the sweat -- this one is dated October 2, 1952. This 3X felt has a medium thickness, but is still very light and just incredibly soft and malleable. The color is really a beautiful shade of gray. The brim is 2 1/2" wide, and the ribbon is a tad over 1 3/4". I think of this one as my "Bogey" hat.

A couple of observations...

First, this is the only Stetson Mode Edge that I have ever seen close up. My impression is that the Mode Edge is more subtle and understated than other examples of this kind of edge treatment -- a Cavanagh edge, or Dobbs Guild Edge, for example. In other words, there seems to be less of a lip on the edge itself. Anyone out there who has hats with these different edges -- would you agree with this observation generally? Perhaps Brad Bowers has some views on this, as well.

Secondly, this is the first vintage Stetson I have come across with this particular sort of liner protector -- rather than covering the entire top of the liner, the plastic protection is smaller, and simply forms a kind of protective shield around the Stetson 3X logo. Anyone else have this kind of liner protector? I'm wondering how common this feature was, and when it was used on Stetson hats.

Note: the Stetson hat box is an older one, but did not come with the hat...

Cheers,
JtL

Surprised you haven't had one of these, given all the high-quality Stetson's you've picked up. I love the old 3x Stetson felt quality, but have still never touched any of the 100x's that many of you collect, so curious how it compares.

I have two Knox 20's with that edge, and also two Borsalinos - the Borsos are very subtle in comparison to the Knox's and Cavanaghs. Looking forward to seeing the mode edge this week.

Maybe you have something rare in that abbreviated plastic liner.

 

[CRH]

I'd wear it.

Looks like I beat carouselvic to the draw...

Thanks, Jim, for the cool hat and the mode edge and liner info and, Wow! - Sue's just right in there with the down and dirty photos!

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[indycop]

Sher is purdy!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[mayserwegener]

Wow another stunner!

 

[carouselvic]

I'll bet they were sour anyway.

 

[RBH]

Sher is purdy!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[Lefty]

pfft.
Only 3 Xs... after a 100?

I dig that most of your hats aren't just nice, they're interesting.

 

[carouselvic]

I can count those X's on one hand....most of the time.

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

...impression is that the Mode Edge is more subtle and understated than other examples of this kind of edge treatment -- would you agree with this observation generally?

I suppose that's possible but when I compare my single Stetson Mode Edge to my Dobbs, Warner, Disney, Knox felted in edges, what I note is that the Stetson version is 'deeper' back onto the brim. I mean that while some of the others almost appear in the shape of a chord going around the brim, the Mode Edge is more like a flat disc going around. I don't think it's less thick but the extra width of this treatment may make it appear so. It's a very nice look.

Anyone else have this kind of liner protector?

Yes, if you'll remember, my Stetsonian has that (below) - but it is the only other time I've seen it. I imagine that it was not too often used and that some people would remove it leaving the now 'vintage hats' with ordinary cloth liners. Just a guess.

 

[Dreispitz]

Bantam

Jimmy,

when I recieved below Stetson Bantam, the first thing - appart from the touch - was the suptleness of the edge. Thought, that it is a special feature of bantam weight hats to comform with the overall idea of lightness. Interesting to find other hats with this particular feature.

It works well with wider brims, no?

The liner is diefernet, though.

 

[jimmy the lid]

Thanks for the comments folks.

Sue -- many thanks for taking the time to post those photos. The Mode Edge on your Stetson 20 looks to have the same qualities.

Aureliano -- the creasing is all done by hand, and the technique is described here.

ScottF -- I have experienced Stetson 3X fedoras before, but never a Stetson Mode Edge. I immediately noticed that the edge seemed more subtle and less pronounced than other similar edges I have seen. This felt is just incredibly soft -- reminds me of a thicker, soft-felt Borsalino. The only modern hat I have come across that reminds me of this particular kind of felt quality is a fedora made by tonyb belonging to BobC. Of course, that one is pure beaver, but still has that very soft quality to it.

I dig that most of your hats aren't just nice, they're interesting.

I appreciate that observation, Lefty.

Yes, if you'll remember, my Stetsonian has that (below) - but it is the only other time I've seen it. I imagine that it was not too often used and that some people would remove it leaving the now 'vintage hats' with ordinary cloth liners. Just a guess.

The first time I saw this protector, it reminded me of the kind of plastic that covers the screens on electronic devices, and is meant to be peeled off before use. I wonder if these were routinely peeled off? I just find it interesting that examples of this kind of protector seem to be far and few between. Thanks for posting that photo, Gene.

Dreispitz -- Likewise, thanks for the photo. That is one gorgeous lid, incidentally. Once again, that Mode Edge strikes me as something subtle. That subtlety, is, I think, very cool.

Anyone else out there have thoughts or observations on the Stetson Mode Edge generally, or this type of liner protector?

Cheers,
JtL

 

[Dundee]

Beautiful, beautiful hat. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[Dreispitz]

Knox Custom

The Knox Custom with - geuss what - custom edge also fals into the mentioned category, edge wise. However stingy brim, it features the suptle edge and felt qualities. It was sold for 15,95 $ at the time.

 

[Mario]

Without ever wanting to hijack this thread, I believe the edge of my Borso qualifies as well...very subtle Cav edge treatment on extremely lightweight felt.

BTW: How do you call the equivalent of a Cavanagh edge on Borsalinos?

 

[HarpPlayerGene]

Yeah, I hesitated to put too many pix because I thought it might not be on topic with the title but Jimmy has started an interesting series of comparisons, so here's another couple of shots.

By the way, I actually used an old fashioned micrometer tool to measure the thickness of the felted in edges on all my hats (I forgot earlier that I also have a Lee with one). My Mode Edge Stetson turns out to have the thickest edge of all of them by about 1/64 of an inch. [huh]

 

[Brad Bowers]

HPG, I once started a project to measure with a micrometer the dimensions of Cavanagh Edges, particularly to see if there is a noticeable difference in them between the first and second patents, and with other companies. First thing I noticed is that they are all different, and there is no way to tell just by using measurements.

What it comes down to is the particular finisher of the hat, and what shackle he was using that day, if they weren't standardized across the line.

That being said, my usual caveat about the Mode Edge applies: There's always the possiblity that it's not a Cavanagh Edge at all, but a Stetson Re-enforced Edge, which doesn't require welting and sewing. I haven't yet proven it one way or the other.

Mario, Borsalino referred to it, informally, as a Bordo Doppio.

Brad