Sports coats and suits for one-bag adventuring

[lupo]

Gents:
I'm prepping for a longish semi-business trip to relatively wild parts of the world where men are still expected to look civilized (former Soviet states). I travel light; one carry on bag + a briefcase. Was wondering what you folks do about sports coats and suits that travel well.

When in the tropics (my last couple of big trips), I rock the canvas sports coats, Seersucker and Safari Jacket and end up feeling well dressed. This sort of thing won't do in the far Easts of Europe. Last time I was there, my wool sports coat ended up pretty wrinkly and beat up. Since I'm relatively flush these days, I figure I can do better.

I got a few silk blazers I've been thinking about fixing up with some extra pockets and such, though the ones presently on hand aren't real business like, nor are they suitable for lounging with dyevooshkas in bars. Been looking at the travelsmith sports coats, though I have a 14" suit drop, and am a bit worried they'd end up looking funny -many of the reviews mention the billowy midsections on these items. Eastern Europeans definitely prefer a more fitted athletic look to the fat American businessman look. Travelsmith also don't have many dark patterns or colors, which I figure is a good idea, both for fashion and practical reasons. The microfiber: I'm not going to do it. I'd rather have some wrinkles than a plastic sports coat. Anyone have experience with these sports coats? Basic black? I know the Ukrainians at least can play spot the American businessman by the blue blazers and grey trousers: I'd rather avoid this. Maybe something by Abboud or Boss in a dark silk or cashmere pattern?

Then there is the pants issue. There's a hunting trip on the schedule, so I'll have a set of canvas pants, a filson wax shell and my whites semiformals (double service as dress shoes). Don't think the canvas pants will fly in business meetings. Don't trust silk pants. What's left? Light tweed? Cashmere?

I already got one of them eagle creek garment bags to stash the sports coat away in the case. I figure it's got to be better than bundling, though I have yet to try it out.

Socks: wool. Shirts and ties have never been a problem.

It's coming up in the late summer, otherwise I'd just have a custom suit made up out of a silk/cashmere blend and have lots of zippery things put inside like the travelsmith jackets have.

Any ideas or tips? Eastern European fashion advice? Advice on modifying a sports coat with extra pockets? Items which are mandatory for this sort of thing? How do you folks travel with suits and sports coats?

 

[davidg]

Gents:... Been looking at the travelsmith sports coats, though I have a 14" suit drop, and am a bit worried they'd end up looking funny -many of the reviews mention the billowy midsections on these items. Eastern Europeans definitely prefer a more fitted athletic look to the fat American businessman look.

Whatever you buy, I would recommend that you get it in time to go to a tailor and have taken care of any small flaws in fit there may be. If the former soviets don't like the look of a "fat american businessman", .. fukc 'em,.., if that's what you are. Clothes are there to fit the man, .. NOT man to fit the clothes. A good tailor, and some time and money can make almost anyone look a LOT better.

 

[Mahagonny Bill]

I would stay away from Travelsmith. I have never been happy with the quality of their clothing.

I'm a one-bagger as well. I picked up a Tilley Urban Traveler jacket with matching slacks a few years ago. The jacket has several Velcro closed pockets. It is made from a poly/cotton microfiber so it breathes well and is wrinkle resistant but is not thick like a polyester suit. Both pieces work separately, so you can mix and match with the rest of your clothing. You can also hand wash it in a pinch.

Here is a picture of the olive/brown suit I take on trips.

The jacket is kind of boxy, but then again so am I. Keep in mind, you will want to take it to a tailor done once you get it. The jacket sleeves and pants are shipped extra long to allow for alterations.

 

[Tomasso]

I once had the iconic Brioni travel jacket in tan cotton twill. It had 16 secured pockets, inside and out, in various sizes. You might look into one though I believe they're now a special order item.

 

[lupo]

Whatever you buy, I would recommend that you get it in time to go to a tailor and have taken care of any small flaws in fit there may be. If the former soviets don't like the look of a "fat american businessman", .. fukc 'em,.., if that's what you are. Clothes are there to fit the man, .. NOT man to fit the clothes. A good tailor, and some time and money can make almost anyone look a LOT better.

Sound advice, which I plan on taking to heart. I don't know if I made it clear or not: I'm a *very lean* American businessman (I lift weights like it's my job). On a good week when I do cardio and don't eat too much salt, and the Moon is in alignment with Saturn, I can spot veins on my abs. Part of what's killing me here is the 14" suit drop, and my desire not to look like a shouldery pencil in a cloth coffee can. I figure I can (and should; the vory are a real problem in that part of the world) pass as a local Boris Badinov type until I open my mouth if I pick my clothes right.

Tomasso: Brioni ... nice stuff, but even though I got some falling green, I always get sticker shock when I go to Wilkes Bashford to look over their stuff. A Brioni custom suit will probably cost me twice what the trip does!

Handsome jacket, Bill, though it wouldn't work on my frame. Thanks for the warning about Travelsmith.

 

[avedwards]

I would recommend a pure wool suit as it can be hung up as soon as you arrive and all the wrinkles should fall out. It's also a lot more breathable (and in my opinion better looking) than silks or microfibres. I would avoid a suit which ends up looking too much like a travel suit as you want to look like a businessman rather than a tourist.

If you take a suit with a windowpane or plaid pattern it can be worn as a sportcoat with coordinating trousers. My favourite travel suit is grey with a subtle check so it can be dressed down quite nicely with a pair of black flannel trousers.

Consider wearing a waistcoat for the extra pocket space, unless that's too formal for the business environment you'll be in.

 

[lupo]

Thanks AV; I think I'll take that to heart. Looking at my silk odd jackets and sports coats ... they're not really suitable for business at all. The tweedy one (in my icon coincidentally) ... maybe for a physics talk.

I don't know if I could do an odd waistcoat, though maybe a pockety sweater vest would work somehow. Had I the time, I'd have used the excuse to buy a custom three piece.

 

[listenone]

A multifunction tent is necessary