Single-venters flare open when I button 'em

[Miss 1929]

Vents are NOT attractive!

One of the nice things about pre-war jackets is the lack of vents.
If you need room when you sit down, you unbutton.
Vents, either single or double, say 1970s to me in a loud voice - if you like the 70s, you probably have to live with them opening, or perhaps buy the jackets bigger? And tailor down to other parts to match?
One of the ways in which some folks I know make their 70s jackets pass for 20s - 30s, is to sew up those vents.
Pardon me for "venting", I jut hate the way they look...and I refuse to call anything from the 70s vintage! It can't be vintage if it's younger than I am!

 

[cudak888]

One of the nice things about pre-war jackets is the lack of vents.
If you need room when you sit down, you unbutton.
Vents, either single or double, say 1970s to me in a loud voice - if you like the 70s, you probably have to live with them opening, or perhaps buy the jackets bigger? And tailor down to other parts to match?
One of the ways in which some folks I know make their 70s jackets pass for 20s - 30s, is to sew up those vents.
Pardon me for "venting", I jut hate the way they look...and I refuse to call anything from the 70s vintage! It can't be vintage if it's younger than I am!

After reading this forum, I've grown quite fond of the '40s ventless look as well, but I've always felt that anything past the genuine period (including reasonably accurate replications from the '70s), simply doesn't look right when sewed up.

I still have a fondness for dual-vents on the '70s jackets though...guess I'll have to live with my weaknesses, eh? lol

I've considered the tailoring aspect of it, but I'm not entirely sure if a larger waisted jacket can be brought in without looking a tad out of place. As I'd probably only do this with a dual-venter, I'm crossing my fingers that the right thing will show up at the Goodwills instead.

I was born after the era. It's all a matter of how one looks at it. Yet, I still maintain that touch-tone phones are newfangled. Maybe there's hope for me yet, eh?

Take care,

-Kurt

 

[Tomasso]

I possess a rather large behind/rear-end/derrière (call it what you want)

You got back. Sorry to say but even the best tailors have no answer for that.[huh]

 

[Jovan]

Are you doing all the buttons, or just the "fulcrum" button? -- meaning the top on a two button and middle on a three. Many jackets are meant to be worn without the bottom one fastened, as weird as that sounds.

The triple vents... sound a little redundant to me! I would never wear such a thing.

 

[GBR]

If the centre vent opens then surely the jacket is too small/cut wrong for you? The danger of second hand or RTW.

 

[Feraud]

Welcome the Lounge cudak888.

It reads as if your jackets are too tight. The vent should not be spreading open when you are wearing the jacket in a normal (jacket buttoned, standing) position.

Try a jacket one size up to fit your rear end and see how the rest of it fits. Sleeves can be taken in if necessary but the jacket should not appear to be splitting at the seams in the backside.

 

[luvthatlulu]

Your jacket is obviously too tight (at least in that area); however, as a quick fix you might ask your tailor to simply sew the vent closed. The jacket will still be too tight there but, if the only area where it shows is in the rear vent area, it may not be so obvious with this quick fix. You may also try not carrying a wallet in your back pant pocket. Doing so often creates or worsens the problem.

--Not the Lulu

 

[cudak888]

Are you doing all the buttons, or just the "fulcrum" button? -- meaning the top on a two button and middle on a three. Many jackets are meant to be worn without the bottom one fastened, as weird as that sounds.

The triple vents... sound a little redundant to me! I would never wear such a thing.

Just the fulcrum button.

As for the triple-vented jacket, it scared the hell out of me when I saw it. Seemed to have been tailored that way as well, for there was no possible way - at least, the way it had been cut - to add the material that created the center vent. Strange.

If the centre vent opens then surely the jacket is too small/cut wrong for you? The danger of second hand or RTW.

I can only guess that each jacket that I have was made with a straight drape along the sides/back (did I get the terminology right?), and as a result, are flaring out around the rear.

Welcome the Lounge cudak888.

...Try a jacket one size up to fit your rear end and see how the rest of it fits. Sleeves can be taken in if necessary but the jacket should not appear to be splitting at the seams in the backside.

Thanks, Feraud.

Well, I did make it a point to try a few of the horrific sack-o'-beans (least ways, that's how they feel to me) suits at JCPenney, just to see if they pop open in the same way. Although not as pronounced, they still split open back there to a lesser extent.

Guess I'm pretty much stuck with dual-venters. Not that I mind, I'm rather fond of that look. Only wish there were more of 'em at the thrift shops - they are curiously uncommon on the '70s-period jackets that pop up at the local thrifts (Ratio is about 1 to 30, with anywhere from 40 to 250 suits present).

Take care,

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Your jacket is obviously too tight (at least in that area); however, as a quick fix you might ask your tailor to simply sew the vent closed. The jacket will still be too tight there but, if the only area where it shows is in the rear vent area, it may not be so obvious with this quick fix. You may also try not carrying a wallet in your back pant pocket. Doing so often worsens the problem.

--Not the Lulu

I've tried pinning the vent with my fingers before while wearing the jacket to get a feel of the jacket sans vent - doesn't work, it starts riding up.

I never have anything in the back pockets - I usually carry such paraphernalia on the side pockets.

-Kurt

 

[luvthatlulu]

I've tried pinning the vent with my fingers before while wearing the jacket to get a feel of the jacket sans vent - doesn't work, it starts riding up.

I never have anything in the back pockets - I usually carry such paraphernalia on the side pockets.

-Kurt

OK. With that information in hand, I have to say that you are probably not a candidate for single-vented jackets, certainly not those purchased OTR. I do not have a prominent rear myself, but I can never seem to get them to hang properly either. For that reason, I prefer non-vented jackets myself and usually have side-vented jackets sewn closed by my tailor. Even side vents will hang slightly askew if your rear is prominent unless you oversize the jacket to compensate. Why create another fit problem trying to overcome the first? Talk to a competent tailor and follow his/her recommendations. Sorry, but if you are not built to OTR specs (and most of us aren't in one way or another) you have to compromise in one way or another or go custom made.

--Not the Lulu

 

[CharlestonBows]

Vents aren't supposed to really stay slam shut, but they are however supposed to hang closed while standing. Vent's designed to make the coat easier to wear -- a device evolved from when gentlement still traveled horseback. If it is pulling open, its one of two problems: 1) the jacket is too tight, or 2) the jacket is very, very poorly cut.

Giving the benefit of the doubt to the maker, I'll have to agree with the consensus that the jacket is just too tight. If it feels alright in the shoulders, try having the body of the coat eased out a bit by a tailor.

Also, generally, for gentlement with large hips or posteriors, I really try to urge them to avoid vented coats, especially side vents, for this specific reason. A non-vented coat really is the best way for this build of gentleman to go, as it fits better and is a little more friendly to his physique - asthetically and otherwise.

 

[luvthatlulu]

I've tried pinning the vent with my fingers before while wearing the jacket to get a feel of the jacket sans vent - doesn't work, it starts riding up.
-Kurt

And don't ever try to be your own tailor, Kurt. Won't work. In order to "pin with your fingers" I guarantee you strained some other area of the jacket and created another fit problem. There is only one way to get properly fitted -- you wear naturally while someone else properly measures and pins. There are no exceptions to this rule. None. I cannot stress this enough.

 

[cudak888]

Vents aren't supposed to really stay slam shut, but they are however supposed to hang closed while standing.

That I know - but it isn't that the vent is sitting slightly upwards, rather, the vent spreads about 2" at the bottom when buttoned.

Giving the benefit of the doubt to the maker, I'll have to agree with the consensus that the jacket is just too tight. If it feels alright in the shoulders, try having the body of the coat eased out a bit by a tailor.

Doubt it - there's not enough material in any one of the four single-venters I own to ease this problem out to a tolerable point.

Also, generally, for gentlement with large hips or posteriors, I really try to urge them to avoid vented coats, especially side vents, for this specific reason. A non-vented coat really is the best way for this build of gentleman to go, as it fits better and is a little more friendly to his physique - asthetically and otherwise.

Interesting, for I find that dual-vents seem to solve the problem with a reasonably minimal gap (considering what is being covered).

My only experience with a non-vented jacket comes from a semi-sack Fezza that I have; it fits well, as loose-fitting jackets come, but I've never cared for the ventless appearance back there - always looks as if the rear of the jacket sits straight up (I prefer a taper at the back - not sure if that is considered good attire here).

And don't ever try to be your own tailor, Kurt.

I figured I was opening myself up to that one! Didn't know for sure if it would or wouldn't cause a problem - figured I'd mention it and wait for someone to correct me.

-Kurt

 

[GBR]

Your jacket is obviously too tight (at least in that area); however, as a quick fix you might ask your tailor to simply sew the vent closed. The jacket will still be too tight there but, if the only area where it shows is in the rear vent area, it may not be so obvious with this quick fix. You may also try not carrying a wallet in your back pant pocket. Doing so often creates or worsens the problem.

--Not the Lulu

This is a 'no win', if you put a wallet in either of the inside breast pockets in coat that is too tight it will make the problem much worse as well.

Back pockets may be (just) the lesser of the evils.

 

[CharlestonBows]

That I know - but it isn't that the vent is sitting slightly upwards, rather, the vent spreads about 2" at the bottom when buttoned.

Thats what I'm talking about. A spread vent is not a closed vent. This is caused by the fabric pulling. If it is tight, or poorly cut, across the area above the vent, it will affect the garment to the skirt. This means that the only place that the fabric has to give at all is at the vents. A bad cut, or tailors misjudgment in one place can impact the fit of the entire garment. So I'll stick with my conclusion - based on what's been put out so far - that the garment is too tight, at least for your physique.

Doubt it - there's not enough material in any one of the four single-venters I own to ease this problem out to a tolerable point.

This is the only viable way to fix the problem, as described. Don't discount what a quater- to half- inch can do if each seam is addressed. You might also consider moving the button? Just some basic ideas - I'd have to see the coat on you to really tell. Maybe some pictures of you wearing the problem garment?

Interesting, for I find that dual-vents seem to solve the problem with a reasonably minimal gap (considering what is being covered).

My only experience with a non-vented jacket comes from a semi-sack Fezza that I have; it fits well, as loose-fitting jackets come, but I've never cared for the ventless appearance back there - always looks as if the rear of the jacket sits straight up (I prefer a taper at the back - not sure if that is considered good attire here).

The back flap on a side vented coat, on a man with a larger posterior, generally doesn't look good. The back flap juts out from the back, drawing attention to the issue rather than hiding it. This, of course, is based on the assumption that the garment is a properly tailored and fitted one. If the garment is loose, or left unbuttoned, then the backflap will naturally lay flatter. See the above comment concerning tightness in the coat waist & the effect on the skirting of the coat.

The fact that a coat is ventless does not necessarily mean that it should be a tapered skirt on the coat. If you've not tried a well-tailored ventless coat, I encourage you to give one a shot.

 

[GBR]

Why not cut your losses and put them back on EBay or wherever?

 

[cudak888]

...This is the only viable way to fix the problem, as described. Don't discount what a quater- to half- inch can do if each seam is addressed. You might also consider moving the button? Just some basic ideas - I'd have to see the coat on you to really tell. Maybe some pictures of you wearing the problem garment?

I doubt if either the letting out of the jacket or moving the buttons on any of these jackets would solve the problem. A picture is worth 1000 words though - I'll post some soon.

The back flap on a side vented coat, on a man with a larger posterior, generally doesn't look good. The back flap juts out from the back, drawing attention to the issue rather than hiding it. This, of course, is based on the assumption that the garment is a properly tailored and fitted one. If the garment is loose, or left unbuttoned, then the backflap will naturally lay flatter. See the above comment concerning tightness in the coat waist & the effect on the skirting of the coat.

As a matter of fact, I prefer the lower flap of the jacket to flare to an extent. I've never cared for this portion to sit entirely flat, hence my liking of the dual-vents.

Why not cut your losses and put them back on EBay or wherever?

At $5/each, I'm not complaining, neither am I getting rid of them. I have a few three-piece setups that can be used on all of these jackets, which I can use them with (I generally don't button the jacket when I have a vest on).

Take care (and photos to come with my next post, hopefully),

-Kurt

 

[luvthatlulu]

This is a 'no win', if you put a wallet in either of the inside breast pockets in coat that is too tight it will make the problem much worse as well.

Back pockets may be (just) the lesser of the evils.

That's quite true, but I was under the assumption that the jacket(s) in question fit well enough to accommodate a "pocket secretary" (not really a folding wallet like those commonly worn in the rear pants pocket) and was/were tight only in the area of the rear vent.

In a frontal view, a little tightness in a jacket caused by the temporary inclusion of necessary personal effects in one's pockets can be forgiven (not desired, but forgivable). That is the reason most good tailors will ask you to place such items in a jacket while it is being fitted. Suppose you don't normally wear glasses, but on a particular day you need to take along a pair of sunglasses for protection from the sun. How about a flask for protection against...oh, I don't know...federal holidays that close liquor stores? Are you banned from ever placing these items in your coat pocket when not needed? No.

On the other hand, a vent that pulls open in the back spoils the rear view of the wearer and is inexcusable. Compounding the problem by deliberately wearing a wallet in your back trouser pocket is unforgivable.

--Not the Lulu

 

[aliados]

When I was at my heaviest, the only way I could alleviate the vent problem (OTR) was by wearing portly suits.

In any event, whatever my weight, I have always found that some brands/designers fit me, and some simply do not.

I haven't bothered trying to have a tailor re-shape a jacket to suit my build (no pun intended), and, given the paucity of extra fabric left in the seams of modern suits, I doubt that reconfiguration would be piossible!