Schott 641, size help and official fit guide

[musashi.m]

Hello All,

I was initially looking at the 530, but the second hand market has many more options for the 141 and 641.

My next issue is finding the correct size. I am in the UK and the only sellers are online, both for new or second hand jackets.

Using the official fit guide it seems that I am exactly in the middle of 2 sizes.

I am not 100% sure of my chest size, and if I change it of even 1 cm more or less, the fit guide would advise a different size, for all "fit" options, "normal fit", "slim fit" and even "very slim fit".

I think this could also be because even if I switch to European measures, I think the website actually converts them to inches, becfore calculating the size, but I digress.

The issue is also that I really don't like baggy jackets and I would like a slim fit.

Maybe it's a silly question, but what "chest measure" does the website asks for?
The "body" / chest size, undressed (or with a thin tshirt), or the measure with clothes on (potentially similar layers that we want to use with the jacket)?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Tom71]

Your actual chest size at the widest point without any clothing. Relaxed, so no exaggerated inhaling either.

Best be measured by somebody else, so you can stand at ease, arms hanging down.

 

[musashi.m]

Yeah, unfortunately, I really don't have somebody that can measure me at the moment

-Then, when the fit guide asks for the chest measure, should "I" add the potential extra volume for clothing?

-Or they already consider that clearly not many people are going to put a jacket on, without "something in the middle" between the jacket and the body? And accomodate for that?

I mostly base my chest size according to the clothes I have and fit me well, and what their manufacturers say about the chest size for that piece of clothing size. But we are talking mostly about pullovers, hoodies, not jackets.

Also being in the UK most of the clothing here use "Alpha sizes" (is this the correct name?), extra-small, small, medium, large, extra-large, and so on.

So I cannot easily compare the size with the jackets (non leather ones) I have.

Extra challenge, in different countries alpha sizes can be different.

Pretty sure that something size Medium in continental Europe or Japan, is usually marked Small in UK or US.

- does a "slightly smaller" leather jacket conforms to the body with time and usage, or will it always be uncomfortable?
Pretty sure arms should be fine, because I read these jackets have large arms anyway, and you can adjust the waist to a degree, but for cheast and shoulders I think the correct fit is only really possible with the correct size (obvious I know).

 

[Tom71]

Well, of course you can measure your chest yourself. You do need a soft tape, though.

Schotts size calculator does the recommendation based on the ‚real‘ data, so chest size WITHOUT any allowance for layers. I have come to find their suggestions to be pretty accurate.

Alternatively, grab a jacket that fits you well and measure THAT jacket. You can contact Jerri via the Schott homepage, and he will send you the jacket measurements per size.

If you have low body fat, you may get away with a slightly undersized jacket. Just be mindful that leather won’t stretch much. It will adopt to your body, but it will not grow (unlike a pair of jeans).

I think you can eliminate the difference between numbered and lettered sizing from the equation. All that matters are actual measurements.

 

[musashi.m]

Well, of course you can measure your chest yourself. You do need a soft tape, though.

Schotts size calculator does the recommendation based on the ‚real‘ data, so chest size WITHOUT any allowance for layers. I have come to find their suggestions to be pretty accurate.

Alternatively, grab a jacket that fits you well and measure THAT jacket. You can contact Jerri via the Schott homepage, and he will send you the jacket measurements per size.

If you have low body fat, you may get away with a slightly undersized jacket. Just be mindful that leather won’t stretch much. It will adopt to your body, but it will not grow (unlike a pair of jeans).

I think you can eliminate the difference between numbered and lettered sizing from the equation. All that matters are actual measurements.

I got the jacket measurements, and I have a winter, slightly padded, fabric jacket, in a similar style, slim fit, that I love the fit of, and fits me like a glove.

Now I have to understand how to read the jacket measurements

Some things seem easy, but for others, it's time to google.
sweep, cross shoulder, cross back, cross chest, armscye

Is there a guide or link that you here suggest, to learn how to use the measurements chart?

 

[Tom71]

Ok, padded jacket… Just make sure that you measure it lying flat, otherwise you will measure the padding, not the inside measurements.

How to measure?

Have a look at the Classifieds here. Tons of photos with measurements.

The trick is to smooth the jacket out, lay it on a flat surface and measure it, slightly pulling on the fabric to erase wrinkles but NOT stretch it.
There is room for error here, so many makers are reluctant to provide jacket measurements, but rather have you measure yourself to let them make a suggestion.

 

[musashi.m]

Ok, padded jacket… Just make sure that you measure it lying flat, otherwise you will measure the padding, not the inside measurements.

How to measure?

Have a look at the Classifieds here. Tons of photos with measurements.

The trick is to smooth the jacket out, lay it on a flat surface and measure it, slightly pulling on the fabric to erase wrinkles but NOT stretch it.
There is room for error here, so many makers are reluctant to provide jacket measurements, but rather have you measure yourself to let them make a suggestion.

Well, the jacket I would use is lightly padded, I would say?

It basically has a "sewn in" (not removable) artificial wool layer on the inside. I was thinking it could make it similar to how the Schott jacket is with the internal wool layer (boa) in place.

Thanks a lot for the hints, will check the Classifieds pages!

 

[Tom71]

Well, the jacket I would use is lightly padded, I would say?

It basically has a "sewn in" (not removable) artificial wool layer on the inside. I was thinking it could make it similar to how the Schott jacket is with the internal wool layer (boa) in place.

Thanks a lot for the hints, will check the Classifieds pages!

Yeah, sorry, I was thinking of a puffer-style jacket. You’re right, some light pattern isn’t a problem, of course.

 

[musashi.m]

@Tom71, no need to say sorry! Thanks a lot for your help!
You know how, when dealing with something new, the smallest thing can be tricky? This is how I feel right now

Two questions.

First question, measuring the jacket "chest width", with the jacket fully buttoned / zipped up and laying flat, should I measure
- just the front, under the armpits, from side to side
- or, the front, from the middle of the armpit seam to the middle of the other armpit seam?

There is about 1 inch difference between the two.

Second question, checking Google and various websites on how to measure a jacket, after the chest width measure, the other major one seems to be the "shoulder width" size.
- I am not sure how this is called in the spreadsheet that Schott representative sent me?

Thanks!