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Scarecrow Yah Ta Hey leathers

Messages
105
Location
San Francisco
I thought I would share my experience on how this jacket came to be and yes, the fun I had in taking Arrandales envision and making it a reality.

Arrandale contacted me about two years ago inquiring about an insane project he had a vision for. He was passionate and new exactly what he wanted and came across as sincere in his quest. We kept in contact and late in 2021 I decided to take on this project. I named his jacket the beast and it was quite a challenge as the bull hides came in at just about 7.5oz. We have never tried sewing anything this heavy before especially with a removeable shearling lining and collar. We have made a 5.5oz Bison jacket and a CXL horse hide jacket in 5.75 oz. The beast tried the patience of our sewer, pattern maker, cutter and me as well. In the end Arrandale was right as the jacket looks great and other than a direct lightning strike nothing will hurt the beast. This was a one-off custom jacket I made for a friend and never to be reproduced again.
 

Will Zach

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,844
Location
SoFlo
14 lbs! My heaviest jacket is 5.2 lbs and I cannot imagine comfortably wearing anything much heavier. But definitely fun one-off. Can you imagine handing this jacket to a coat check attendant in a restaurant or a theater? "Uh, sir, don't be alarmed, that's one of my lighter jackets"....:)
 

Arrandale

One of the Regulars
Messages
125
Location
Tokyo
Well, this medium length coat is 13.7 lbs.. It’s like wearing a medieval brass armor. It has a 3/4 inch mouton fur lining and is very warm, as a matter of fact it’s too warm to wear it in Tokyo.
 

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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,718
Well, this medium length coat is 13.7 lbs.. It’s like wearing a medieval brass armor. It has a 3/4 inch mouton fur lining and is very warm, as a matter of fact it’s too warm to wear it in Tokyo.
Perfect for those winter weekend get away in Hokkaido!

Is this Yay Ta Hey long jacket also made by Johnson Leathers? Or was it Cal?
 

Arrandale

One of the Regulars
Messages
125
Location
Tokyo
Perfect for those winter weekend get away in Hokkaido!

Is this Yay Ta Hey long jacket also made by Johnson Leathers? Or was it Cal?
I believe it was made by Johnson Leather because Mr. Zaffrin still seems to have the patterns. But perhaps shops other than Johnson Leather might have participated in making the jackets.
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,955
Location
London
14 lbs! My heaviest jacket is 5.2 lbs and I cannot imagine comfortably wearing anything much heavier. But definitely fun one-off. Can you imagine handing this jacket to a coat check attendant in a restaurant or a theater? "Uh, sir, don't be alarmed, that's one of my lighter jackets"....:)

My heaviest JL is the bison one and it clocks at just over 4kg. If you think about it we often carry heavier rugsacks then this, all day long and they are not nearly as well balanced :)
 

Arrandale

One of the Regulars
Messages
125
Location
Tokyo
Scarecrow Company is a small shop. I doubt they kept many jackets in stock, which means Johnson Leather made all of their leather jackets.
The bottom jacket is Langlitz made flight jacket. It’s a quality. If I asked Johnson Leather to make a flight jacket better than this I know they can do it with ease, but Langlitz flight jacket is obviously better than Schott 184SM.
 

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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,718
^^^That Langlitz looks like it's also made of thicker leather. My current Langlitz is made from 3.5oz only. That one looks like 4.5oz at least.
4.5oz is really the sweet spot for leather thickness, anything below 4 doesn't have that quality hand feel, anything above 5.5 starts to get heavy after a day's wear. Just my personal preference.
 

Arrandale

One of the Regulars
Messages
125
Location
Tokyo
I think you’re right. I bought it when Langlitz was still talking direct orders from Japan. I ordered it to be made of the thickest leather available. It was significantly thicker than the Langlitz I can see in shops at Ueno, Japan.
The bottom photo is Schott 184 SM. This is the first leather jacket I bought. It was around 1985 and it costed 63500 yen. Schott and Spiewak Golden Fleece Jackets were available.
 

Hh121

Banned
Messages
3,004
From JL, 3mm including the lining
5BE96E4B-7990-4813-9F79-5BA42F272C78.jpeg

My 5star CXL
Range from 3.3 mm- 4 mm including lining, after subtract lining thickness which is 0.6mm, the true thickness is from 2.7mm - 3.4mm which is around 7-8.2oz.
CE9ADA78-5013-429A-A865-368B671D9D49.jpeg
EC54D1B8-CA85-4382-92CD-7FA271A03062.jpeg
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152733F5-07C9-45DD-975B-115E3D29556D.jpeg
 

TheDonEffect

Practically Family
Messages
623
Speak from a guy who never shares any of his jackets in here.
Oh, that's right, the 2.5oz cxl is too stiff and heavy for you.


Lol, as I said, reasonable. And it really is, I don't see the point of it in an area where we don't see snow and it's 70 degrees for most of the year, but now that I know my manlihood is based on the thickness of my jacket, I may need to reconsider.
 

Arrandale

One of the Regulars
Messages
125
Location
Tokyo
Does someone know about horsehide? I mean, which is more durable?
In Japan horsehide is about 80% more expensive than steerhide.
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
Does someone know about horsehide? I mean, which is more durable?
In Japan horsehide is about 80% more expensive than steerhide.
Obviously it will depend on the thickness and how it’s tanned and then how it’s finished they are all different. But in general broad terms; horsehide is slightly more water resistant and slightly more abrasion resistant than steer. But only slightly it’s not a huge difference and they look the same. If you took horse and steer CXL for example both in black let’s say; they would look basically the same. Then you have bison, moose, and buffalo which again in general terms have more grain, are thicker, but more flexible and softer. Then there’s goat which again in general terms is thinner than horse and cow but is actually even more water resistant and abrasion resistant than horse. Then there’s the ultimate kangaroo hide. A lot of motorcycle racers use roo suits because it’s super lightweight but exceptionally tight grain and tight fibers which means it’s great with water and is super tear resistant. Then there’s a million other things like kudu and pig. And then whether it’s chrome tanned, Veg tanned, combo tanned. Then how it’s finished…is it hot stuffed with oils and wax, is it painted, is it stamped, does it have a lacquer on it…
 
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